strange request - proflex beast 97

[martin]

hi

ive a proflex 97 beast which i havnt used in about 5 years, but next year am going to get back into mountain biking.

The bikes at my parents no where near to me and was wondering what size steerer tube would be on a proflex beast (or similar) way big frame? looking at ditching the chubby triple clamp forks

thanks for any info

[rapiddescent]

Hi martin,

they use 1 1/8th steerers.  The length of the steerer is dependent on the size of the frame - however, if you buy new (highly recommended) then the steerer will be very long and you can cut it down to size.  I am riding a 97 proflex beast at the moment quite a lot and it has some gorgeous marzocchi Z1 forks that seem to complement the ride well.

If you haven't ridden the bike in a while - I'd think about getting the noleen shock serviced if it feels a bit flat - Dave at CVI Ltd in Yorkshire (you're in the Lakes aren't you?) can do this easily.  A bit expensive, but worth it.

Also worth greasing everything up and then just getting out to ride  again.

callum
rds

[martin]

im in Leeds t the moment but moving back to windermere early next year (thats where the proflex is stored)

saw some cheap pace forks on ebay and also pace themselves are selling off ex-demos and even a 1999 triple clamp rc47 for £149

Just wondered if anyone knew the length of steerer on a way big frame as cant get to measure it myself until November at earliest when go back up to the Lakes.

[Wankel]

I agree with Callum. I would buy a NEW fork - then just cut the steerer to the length that you want, when you get settled in (if you're really set on getting a different fork)

-Chad.

[Frankd3000]

Martin, the headtunbe length on all the Way Big frame's is 160mm. Don't forget to add the height of a headset and stem to that. You'll be looking at having a steerer tube in the neighbourhood of... 9 1/4".

Guess what? You'll need to buy a new one anyways. Sorry bud, but us Way Big frame guy's have to sacrifice somewhere to get what we need.

HTH!

[martin]

Thanks for the info.

Rang a bike shop in the Lake District Bike Treks who used to be one of the main agents for Pro Flex and they were saying the fact the frame hasnt budged an inch (unless its fallen over in the garage [smiley=laughing.gif]) that i may encounter a few problems anyway with regards drivetrain, bushes, elastomers are probably hard and shot at in the forks etc etc. Could be costly to get it back on the road but worth investigating.

[shovelon]

No Way Martin! Your LBS is just cautious.

A little grease on the  joints and off you go. My old 97 beast is still being riden today. And the guy I sold it to is loves it. The elastomers in the shock have held up pretty good, but he is lighter than I so the elastomers got a second life. If you find a good fork you can't go wrong.

Anyway, other than that your beast can take a beating. I can say that after 2 years of riding on the noleen shock on the rear, it got some gravel in the seal and blew. K2 fixed it under warranty and filled with lighter oil, and it was magic!

I even raced it a few times, the women that passed me(ha ha, at least I finished) commented on how pretty it was a few times.

When I had the chance to get a carbon bike, I let go of my beast grudgingly. It certainly would round out a nice collection. Oh and you hardly see these for sale.

Anyway I have had good times on that bike. It is worthy of tuning up.

Terry

[martin]

hi again

spoke to CVI who service noleen shocks and they have recommended giving it a service, adding heavier weight oil and a heavier spring as im now about 17 stone of lard arse so could risk snapping the shaft if used the shock as it stands. Once serviced it shoudlnt need hardly any pre-load which is the best set up with regards to shock life and less stress on it.

The shaft may need replacing if the alloy has pitted also.

Max price to fix the shock would be £120

They have some hard elastomers for the chubby forks £2.95 each which are 40mm long and 20mm
diameter so maybe able to sort them aswell.

Bushes will hopefully just need greasing as shouldnt have much wear its just the fact they havnt moved in a looooonnnnnggg time.

After that its just the drive train which hopefully will just be new cables, de-grease and new chain.

Is it likely the magura hs11s will need bleeding aswell?

[shovelon]

Martin,

The brakes use mineral oil in the system. And is sealed from the elements. It they aint broke, don't fix em. Brake fluid on the other hand will absorbe moisture and can corrode the cylinders.

Good old Magura did it right.

Heavier oil? Not if you like lumps on your behind. Noleens are over damped to begin with. Go with same or lighter. To each his own, but I could not bellieve the difference with the lighter oil.

Yes, heaveir spring, keep the old one just in case you slim down. When my friend bought my beast, he weighed like 150 lbs as opposed to my 190. He loosened the preload so much that the strut wobbled and sure enough broke the shaft. I had an ODS as a spare and that is what he rides today.

Great find on the sponges! Once greased those forks work great. I used judy butter and Slick honey for grease. Let me know and I can give you a detail of my quick and easy regrease technique.

Terry

[martin]

Hi Terry

Im sure he said heavier oil but will check when i send it back.

A break down of your grease technique would be good cheers, im sure it will come back to me once i take it apart and then put it back together and wonder why ive still a pile of bits on the floor  [smiley=laughing.gif]

Im hoping to try and get up to see the bike briefly this weekend and see what state it is in

[shovelon]

Yep, I am sure they said heavier oil as the logic goes that increase the spring pressure and you may have to increase the viscosity of the oil.

No way says I. Stay the same or go lighter. You can always increase the rebound dampening. It is that harsh compression damping that has bugged me. One nice thing about the NR4 and NR5 is that you can alter the compression damping.

Well Anyway, my shock was repaired and tuned by an old Proflex dealer. The shop owner rode proflexes. A rather wirey guy named Ashton, a brit who knew his stuff and spent an hour with me on the trails showing me how to ride a proflex.

I will write my greasing proceedure soon.

Terry

[rapiddescent]

for some reason, dave always likes to change the damping oil.  He wanted to do the same to mine...  maybe it's a yorkshire thing!   before you send the shock way, try riding it and winding up the preload a bit. The shaft breaking thing he's talking about is indeed a problem with these bikes.  Lots of people broke the shaft (usually from heavy hits like jumping) and he's replaced many of them.

Anyway, if you grease the pivot (I wouldn't bother unless it has been damp) then make sure you use TEFLON BASED GREASE - not oil based.

Don't bother taking the magura's apart.  they'll work fine.  In fact, maguras only really break when people become investigative and want to have a go.


callum
rds

[martin]

Cheers for the advice callum, do you think if the shcok still works i could get away without the service and just fitting a heavier spring? It only had light use when it was used, more X/C than jumps etc

[rapiddescent]

you'll probably find that it is still OK.  It's going to take you a while to get back into it.  Ride the bike and see whether the shock bottoms out all the time.  It it does; wind up a bit of preload.  If you are still having problems: then look at changing the spring and damping fluid.

best just to get out there and ride - whatever the weather. I was out on the Ochil hills last night with stirling bike club.  bloody murderous hill climb above the town of Menstrie - we ascended about 1200ft and it was raining!  I was riding a 97 proflex beast as it happens since it is a great all rounder bike.

callum
rds

[martin]

Is your beast standard same shock, chubby forks etc?

Seen a cheap K2 Beast frame but it is likely to have had a far harder life than mine