strange request - proflex beast 97

[shovelon]

Martin, here is my chubby greasing procedure.



1. Gather lite grease, hex wrench set, small snap ring pliers, and long plastic or wood dowel.



2.Wind up the preload springs all the way. Fip bike upside down. Remove wheel, unclip magura brake calipers(don't lose the spacers) and let them hang down on a box or tie them to frame.



3. Push down on the fork with your knee to preload the springs. This will load the shafts while you loosen the screws, otherwise the shafts can spin. Remove both screws.



4. Wipe as much dirt and grim as possible with a paper towel. Slide the lowers off. Check the shaft and sliders for damage and grease the shaft and sliders. Using a wood stick or plastic dowel, smear some grease into the lowers and also the wiper.



5. Every third or fouth greasing, use the snapring pliers to unclip the ring that holds the dampers. Upon doing so, slid out the dampers, wipe the grease off with paper towel and regrease. Slide them back in and reclip.



6. Reassemble in reverse manner.



I rarely had occasion to grease the springs. When I did I aslo wiped out all the grease from the forks that had acumulated over a season.



I had this down to 20 minutes or so without removing the dampers. About 30 minutes with dampers.



Good Luck,

Terry

[martin]

cheers for that

I will have to print off the diagram of the fork, do i need a special tool to remove the preload adjuster cap or is it just an allen key (cant remember)

[shovelon]

Martin,

I think that the preload cap used a set screw. I don't remember any special too. The preload adjuster screwed out with a box wrench. All the sponges are attached to that adjuster.

My only concern with greasing the sponges was that they might absorb solvents and break down. So I kept grease off of them and only greased the spring.

Terry

[martin]

I had a very quick look at my proflex beast at the weekend, and seeing that it hasnt been used in over 5 years it was in a far better way than i had prepared myself for.

The shock hasnt rusted or pitted so can wind down preload, may need a service is there anyway you can tell?

Forks the elastomers must be still working to some extent anyway, also noticed the girvin chubbys have the lugs for a brake disk. They are roughly 45 mm from centre to centre is this post mount I.S or something else? also is there a clearance issue anyway with disk brakes on chubbys?

Seat post still moves, so do the gears.

Mice have eaten my bar grips, swing arm/chain stay protector and the maguras hs11 kind of work. When you brake the pads take ages to release and go back into the caliper housing, any ideas why this is?

Anyway i was expecting it to be far worse so am pretty happy

[shovelon]

I would bet the seals in the brakes are just sticky. The mineral oil on th seals can dry out a little, no biggy.

I don't know about the disk brake mount. I never had a disk on it .

To test the shock, pull the spring off and cycle the damper. If is has hydruallic resistance, that is good. Then assemble and go try it.

So if the forks work, tape the grips and  go for a ride!
Terry

[martin]

It looks like the disk mount tags on the chubby forks are a law to themselves - IS standard is 51mm from centre to centre and post mount is 74mm, even with poor measuring i cant imagine i'll be 6mm out