Front Shock Removal - Is it supposed to be this hard?

[theycallmethefatman]

Hello,
I bought a stiffer rear spring from a shop on Ebay (though I am not sure if it is the correct part, but that is another story) and thought I would swap the existing 250# on the fork for the 300# I removed off the back. Everything went smoothly until I got to the pin that goes through the bottom of the shock. Lots of hammering with a large punch later, I managed to get the pin through the shock and was able to switch out the spring. Reinstalling that cursed pin was even harder, even though I greased all of the exposed surfaces. (And yes, I loosed the pinch bolts holding the pin onto the pivot.) Hammering it back in was even harder because I was afraid of hitting the fork leg and buggering that up. As it was, I didn't get it equally seated on both sides, but figure that it isn't going anywhere soon. How in the world would a guy remove that pin froma carbon leg fork? I'd be terrified of ruining a very expensive piece of beauty and would end up curled up in a corner of the garage whimpering.
Thanks,
John

[Colin]

Hmmm, doesn't sound good!

Not sure from your description how you disassembled it, but look at this diagram of a Vector (Crosslink is broadly similar):
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/MGalleryItem.php?id=305

This is how I'd do it:
Undo and remove Item No.21 (M6 x 1 x 45 SHCS (upper shock))
this should free the top of the shock.
Loosen Items No.1 (Pinch Bolts) M6 x 1 x 25 SHCS (lower link)
This should allow Item 2 ( Pivot Axle (lower shock)) to easily slide out.
and Items 13 and 25 along with the entire shock Item 31 should fall free.
You then loosen the pre-tension adjuster on the shock until there is enough float on the coil to allow the lower coil retainer to be removed and thus the coil
Re-assembly is a reversal.

So, what Item no. where you pounding on? Item 2

If you are struggling, it's sometimes easier to remove the fork legs, which is a relatively stress-free operation.....

Regards,
Col.

[theycallmethefatman]

Hi,
I did exactly what you described (actually took the two Item 1's out) and the pivot axle did not come close to fitting the definition of sliding out easily, which is why I ended up driving it out with hammer and punch. Maybe there is corrosion after 20 years that is causing binding? Thinking that I'll take another run at it this winter and see if it might be more cooperative after a liberal dosing of Liquid Wrench.
Thank you,
John

[fyrstormer]

The pivot bushings on Noleen shocks are SUPER snug, and even the slightest tilt will make them bind. Also the Teflon coating on the outer bushing is pretty soft and can smear around, causing the bushing to bind over time. Probably a combination of dirt, smeared Teflon, and a tiny amount of tilt is what made the pivot pin bind-up so badly. You should send the shock to Noleen for refurbishment, including new bushings, which will probably take a month of turnaround time.

[theycallmethefatman]

Hello,

Thanks for the input fyrstormer, but I don't think i have a Noleen shock. It only had "ODS" on it, no sign of the Noleen name like I see in photos of the higher end Proflex models and then K2's.

Anyway, I took it apart again and lightly filed some of the anodizing off the "lower link assembly" until the "pivot axle" would go in by hand. Wish'd I had a large ream to do a more exact job of it, but at least it goes together and come apart like it should. Just makes me wonder how it ever got put together like that in the factory.

Still not happy with a shorter 500# spring in back and am trying to  purchase F & R Risse air shocks, but that's a story for another time. Loving the 657; so much nimbler than my Giant FS 29er, it's amazing. The long downhills here make me realize how much my hands and forearms are out shape after riding discs for the last few years!

John