Author Topic: Cracked OZX frame (Read 7887 times)

Proflexman · « **on:** August 19, 2003, 06:51:03 am »

Hello all.

I have a problem in that i found a large long crack in my frame just above the swinging arm.

It starts just above a cable guide on the right side going up above the swinwing arm mount for maybe 80 mm long begining to end.

I was thinking of splitting the frame and repairing the damaged half with Diagonap Tri-axle or quadri-axial woven roven matt which is stronger than the carbon used to make this frame and useing West system epoxy.

Or maybe useing a lighter carbon on the outside or both.

Has anyone else suffered a crack to the frame and would splitting the frame work.

Any ideas on this or any help would be great as i am stuck.

The underside of the frame has started to open so maybe i could continue the split and open the frame.

Ionit · « **Reply #1 on:** August 19, 2003, 10:10:08 am »

Their was a similar case of a broken frame just about a week ago. I remember replying to it. I wasn t real serious when I told him the very thing that you had in mind. That is to brake the frame in two. Maybe you could check out that post. The comon consencus on that page is that cracks in carbon frames are inviting catastrophe. Don't listen to them. Try it. You will probably be the first one on the forum to brake a frame in two. Once you do so You will be able to make it as strong as you want. I doubt You will be able to pull it abart with your bare hands. try using a High RPM cuting tool with a diamond wheel.
http://http://idriders.com/cgi-bin/YaBB_K2/YaBB.pl?board=news;action=display;num=1060370870

Mr.Ed · « **Reply #2 on:** August 19, 2003, 02:32:29 pm »

Wow ! this I never heard of happening before.

Got any pix?

In a perfect world you could take the frame to a machine shop, have them mount and indicate it flat ( on the seam ), on a mill bed ( manual or CNC ) and they could walk a horizontal cutting wheel around the perimeter. This would keep the cut even all the way around. That is of course if money is no object, as a shop rate starts at 65.00 an hour. Ouch !

Just a thought for splitting the frame.

Proflexman · « **Reply #3 on:** August 19, 2003, 09:25:03 pm »

[smiley=worry.gif] Right today i open the frame, i Have removed the swinging arm but need to remove the screwed collor for the swinger this passes through the frame and will stop you opening it.

It has a two pin connection for a special tool, this i dont have so will have to fabricate a tool.

I work in the Marine trade working with differant compersites so the repair will be no problem and as i said above useing a tri axle matt in Aerospace quality is perfect it will be much lighter and stronger.

I did think about covering the frame both halves in a thinner carbon matt say .6 but i will have to take advice on this from the guys at F1.

I will make a new collor and nut that i have to remove from the frame in Ti as it will be lighter and stronger.

I think the tubes like the seat tube and steerer tube are epoxied in so there may be a problem removing them.

I am surprised that they used such a coarse quality matt in the construction as normally this is only used between finer matts to build up thickness and a finer quality matt would look better to the public.

In a strange way i like the coarse matt it gives it a coarse edge.

I have a special tool to split the frame.

In my opinion the frame is not worth repairing and i will take photos of it as i go so you guys can see the problems i encounter but i do like this bike and because of that i will continue the repair. [smiley=blankstare.gif]

StoereVent · « **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2003, 09:30:27 pm »

I think you are a brave man!

Jeroen.

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #5 on:** August 20, 2003, 01:21:38 am »

pictures dominic -

if you could, borrow a digital cam and squeeze off a few from start to finish

OP

(and if thru it all you end up with just a swingarm that's functional - i'd be willing to buy it from you but it would have to be fairly cheap - )

Phillip · « **Reply #6 on:** August 20, 2003, 07:07:33 am »

This is an example of why I'm going to stick with my Evo frame. A while back I had several opportunites to purchase 5500 frames for small $'s. I took the late IFO's advice to leave 'em alone because they have no functional benifit other than saving a 1/2 lb.

The good news for you Dominic, is that if the repair doesn't work you can throw that frame in the trash and mount all of your components on a $150 aluminum EVO frame that will last a lifetime.

Good luck with your repair job.

Proflexman · « **Reply #7 on:** August 20, 2003, 09:51:05 am »

[smiley=beer.gif]In need of one of these.
Well today i took some digi photos of the cracked frame and set about removing the collors then un-screwing the nuts either side, this done, next step was to seperate the frame.
This is where it gets interesting as the frame seems to be glued together and not very well and the two halves have a complete inner peice between them which i assume to be some kind of brace member.
I was right about the tubes in that they are glued in position and i will leave the old glue in place and just add some more epoxy and a two pack filler called Pro filler i use this on yachts with Osmosis once the blisters have been removed.
Tomorrow i intend to take some more photos and clean up the sections.
My other problem and one you could help with is i imported the photos into an album in i-photo on the mac but when i wanted to up load them to the site it wont show the album only other albums so i moved the album to the top of the list and still it does not show...?.
As i am in the UK and i guess most of you guys are in the USA does anyone know did K2 have the frames built for them by another firm as is done by most companies.
Is it possible to buy the seperate halves of the frame...?
I removed all my bike kit and built it onto my other frame a Merlin Echo, a nice bike but i am still not sure about the back end.
Theres a big market in the UK for K2 and we still dont have a supplier over here.
My local lbs used the be an agent for K2 and still stocks most of their spares.
Later guys its nearly bed time for me.
[smiley=blankstare.gif]

Proflexman · « **Reply #8 on:** August 20, 2003, 10:22:15 am »

Just a quick hello and to let you know the photos to date are on the site one is not so clear but the is perfect and a picture of what she once was.

Gregman · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2003, 04:01:45 pm »

Clear your cache in Safari and it will show the new album in the order you want it to be in.

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #10 on:** August 21, 2003, 02:42:31 am »

all frames were built by an outside company-

OMNIUM CYCLE WORKS - couldn't find a web page for them but i did come across this

http://interbiketradeshow.com/01_2001/2001_06/2001_06_15_6975.htm

the frames were made in two runs, one in 97 and one in 98. i recall were in california somewhere

OP

you got a small crack forming behind the swingarm mount as well? from the pic - that appears so - i wouldn't risk my life on a bike with that kind of potential 'issues'

the carbon frames are inherently strong but all things suffer from fatigue - even and especially the afore mentioned aluminum evo frames. i've seen pics and had first hand witnessed experiences of their failures - big time.

StoereVent · « **Reply #11 on:** August 21, 2003, 02:47:51 am »

Omnium Cycle Works

3070 Skyway Drive, Bldg 400

Santa Maria, CA 93455
805-928-7089 - phone
805-928-7529 - fax

Proflexman · « **Reply #12 on:** August 21, 2003, 06:38:50 am »

Hello one and all.
Thanks everyone for your help much appriciated.
As i said the two halves had a middle section which was glued to both outer shells.
I had to destroy the middle section in order to clean up.
However i am not worried as i will make a new one by laying up a new middle peice on a sheet of formica which has slip wax applied to it to enable me to release it when it has dried, the middle will be re glued in place then glue the outers on and re-rivet the frame.
When i looked inside the frame the two outer shells showed practically no damage.
However i will apply a carbon tape to the inside and make a baffle out of small sections of carbon and epoxy in place then pump in two pack high density foam filler into the sections on both halves and clean up then join both togteher and once done the frame should be stronger than before.
I have decided to test out the frame by doing harder things with it and should it stand up to it then i will completely re build and use as i used to.

Phillip · « **Reply #13 on:** August 21, 2003, 07:52:42 am »

Dominic, you are the man when it comes to carbon repair! When all these carbon riders start crack'in their frames, you might consider starting an OZ repair business (note to OZ lovers, I'm kidding).

I'm curious how you cracked that frame though. Were you doing big hits?

Proflexman · « **Reply #14 on:** August 21, 2003, 10:35:14 am »

[smiley=laughing.gif] Big hits not a chance not me no sir.
No i was riding a race course called the Newnham 90 with some friends whilst out training and as we are riding this course on the 14 Sept we also practice on it.
There is a couple of places if your going fast enough on the Blue bell run you can grab some air and i did, that's when i heard a crack.
We are doing a small training ride this Sunday if anyone fancies comming its the short course of 50 miles only thing is i am in the UK...!!.
Once i repair this frame and it looks good and nothing happens to it because i will give it some abuse then i will be happy to help others out with their frames if i can.
You supply the money for materials and i will repair them at no cost because i enjoy it.

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Author Topic: Cracked OZX frame (Read 7887 times)