Hammerhead disc brake adapters

[Shaitaan]

OK folks, for anyone that's interested, there's a seller in Ebay (UK) that's selling Hammerhead disc brake adapters for k2/proflex frames... here's the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130835450255?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[kiwi]

if my memory serves me correctly that user name  is the original Hammer himself

[Spokes]

Yep that's Mike Hammer himself. Sounds like a detective show doesn't it.

Chris

[Shaitaan]

yes, it's the one and same.... Mike "Hammer" Billett...I just recieved his pdf file instructions for installation on my 4500c...

Brian

[Shaitaan]

NICE!! quick shipping from Mike, it arrived today, now to get it installed

[Spokes]

Good stuff! Don't forget to post photos so we can all see how good it looks!

Chris

[Colin]

X56HH as test fitted to my x56 spare swing arm.


X56HH as fully fitted to my XP-X with an Avid BB7


Just got to do 2 off CAHH2K on my Carbon bikes
and maybe a 97HH2K for my 857.....?

Col.

[Spokes]

Credit where its due, its a neat job that adapter. It somehow manages to make the fitment look tricker than if it were welded on as standard.

Chris

[Carbon_Angus]

Mike has always done a great job with these. I have one on my Oz frame. Assembly directions very easy to follow. He may have some other trinkets for sale, just email him via eBay or maybe able to friend him on FB.

[fyrstormer]

Credit where its due, its a neat job that adapter. It somehow manages to make the fitment look tricker than if it were welded on as standard.

Chris

Well-fitting aftermarket parts always look trick; they have a way of advertising both the age of the original product and its adaptability too. I bought one of these for the 857 carbon swingarm on the bike I built for my dad, but I think I'll keep the welded-on bracket that my 756 has.



If I hadn't gotten this welding job done in a fit of desperation after discovering the original HammerHead adaptors had been discontinued, I'd be all over these new adaptors. They look great.

[Spokes]

To be fair yours looks great. The welding is excellent and its a proper job.

Chris

[Shaitaan]

I haven't installed mine yet on my 4500c, still looking for my perfect disc brake set and have it arrive before installing.  using the hammerhead, what is the biggest rotor recommended to use for this?  I was planning 180mm front, 160mm for the back, but IF I can get away with using a 180mm in the back, I'd go to a 203mm for the front brake... any suggestions? 
once this build is finished, I'll be picking up another adapter for my 5000 frame

I havent searched yet, but... I haven't picked up my front derailleur yet for my frame also....  do I need a bottom clamp bottom pull for this? I know it's a 31.8mm clamper...

[Colin]

Downtube (derailleur):      bottom pull, top swing, 31.8mm
original spec was:
4500/OzX   Shimano Deore LX top-swing, bottom-pull/clamp-on 31.8mm
5500/OzM   Shimano XTR top-swing, bottom-pull/clamp-on 31.8mm

Col.

[fyrstormer]

I haven't installed mine yet on my 4500c, still looking for my perfect disc brake set and have it arrive before installing.  using the hammerhead, what is the biggest rotor recommended to use for this?  I was planning 180mm front, 160mm for the back, but IF I can get away with using a 180mm in the back, I'd go to a 203mm for the front brake... any suggestions?

The disc size doesn't really matter on the rear wheel. There is a pretty strict maximum amount of braking force you can apply with the rear brake before the wheel starts skidding. As far as physics is concerned, that force will be exactly the same if it's applied with a big rotor with a light touch on the brake lever, or a small rotor with a tight grip on the brake lever. The torque on the caliper mount will be the same either way.

The limited braking capacity of the rear wheel is the reason why it's safe to bolt-on a piece of sheet metal to retrofit a disc brake onto a rear swingarm that wasn't designed for it, whereas a front fork needs reinforcement from top to bottom to safely use a disc brake.

In any event, unless you weigh a lot more than I do (175lbs), you're not going to get much benefit from a 203mm rotor on a cross-country bike. You just won't be stopping hard enough to overheat a smaller rotor. I have 160mm rotors on my 756, and the limiting factors on my ability to stop fast are:

1) the front tire gets squirrelly and starts dragging against the ground under hard braking, and;
2) even a 160mm front rotor provides enough braking force to toss me over the handlebars if I panic and start braking suddenly.

I actually switched to a softer, lower-friction brake pad on my rear brake because the metal pads that came with the brake were too grippy, and I couldn't apply enough pressure to the pads to keep them scraped clean without skidding the rear tire. I thought of downgrading the rear rotor to 140mm, actually, but I opted against it because I didn't want to have to break-in a new rotor.

[Shaitaan]

no worries, I had to ask since I have not seen many talk about what sizes they are running for their set-ups, and this will be my first disc conversion on a retro bike.... all the info is great...but, just like in a car, a bigger rotor setup does affect performance if you have the clearance for it...the larger rotor takes less pressure the further away from the axle, to stop it...some of the trails I ride xc, some are very technical and some also have very gnarly downhills in the mix, so for me the bigger rotors are definitely a bonus. my front fork will have no problems whatsoever dealing with the largest rotors i can attach, but I don't want to run a 203 up front and have a 160 in the rear, IMO it'll feel unbalanced...lighter pressure used to brake the front and harder to stop the back does not make for good braking...