Author Topic: final post about rear shock adapter - promise!! (Read 9649 times)

02gf74 · « **on:** June 20, 2011, 12:13:07 am »

here is the adapter trmmed to save some weight, painted black and fitted to frame.

rides great and I think it reduces flex in the back too.

got the shock at 180 psi which gives a firm rear end, maybe too firm so need to tune it in.

shovelon · « **Reply #1 on:** June 20, 2011, 08:26:21 am »

Looks great!

Tel · « **Reply #2 on:** June 21, 2011, 12:40:18 pm »

Can I have one too?
that looks brilliant mate nice job.
Cheers, Tel.

PANZR · « **Reply #3 on:** June 24, 2011, 03:51:29 am »

Looks fantastic
You could make a few dollars from this if you wanted you know
Any plans to offer some for sale? I know I'd be willing to buy one

Ryan856 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 30, 2011, 05:18:32 pm »

I would deffinatly buy one!! Would help upgrade my 856 an absolute treat!!

02gf74 · « **Reply #5 on:** July 11, 2011, 02:34:43 am »

Ryan 856 - PM'ed you - it will happen so just a matter of waiting for the part to be made up. will let you know when done.

Colin · « **Reply #6 on:** July 12, 2011, 04:31:44 am »

Show me a picture of the other side of the adaptor please. or better yet unfitted.

Have you used a bolt through it or have you threaded the adaptor to fix the shock eye?

Did you make it with a split collet cone shape to fit into the strut? or is it flat?

Nice piece of work.

Col.

02gf74 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2011, 02:33:55 am »

Quote from: Colin on July 12, 2011, 04:31:44 am

Show me a picture of the other side of the adaptor please. or better yet unfitted.

you'll find the answere here (click me!)

Have you used a bolt through it or have you threaded the adaptor to fix the shock eye?
Bolt through using countersunk head M6 ... I suppose I could have tapped the hole but if the eyelet did not align (which it does) then I wold have had to reshape the hole .......
Did you make it with a split collet cone shape to fit into the strut? or is it flat?
I designed it and a near neighbour makes it. Not flat - that would rely on the bolt keeping it together and the bolt would be in shear so definitely a point of faiilure. The cone is part of the adapter.

Nice piece of work.
thanks
Col.

better view of cone :

whisperdancer · « **Reply #8 on:** July 31, 2011, 07:16:51 am »

That is a 165mm shock, and should have around 38mm stroke, correct?
Isn't the stroke too small for the bike?
Noleens had around 50mm stroke, and the problem on making an adapter for a x57 frame is exactly geometry VS stroke of the shock, as a 165mm shock would be nice, but short in stroke.
A 190mm shock will change the geometry.

Tel · « **Reply #9 on:** July 31, 2011, 09:05:12 am »

could you run the 190 with a bit more sag?
By the way I`d still love one of these as my old Noleen is getting a bit baggy.
Cheers, Tel.

Spokes · « **Reply #10 on:** July 31, 2011, 10:56:52 am »

But surely using a 165mm shock or a 190mm with more sag (making it 165mm) will still give the same amount of travel. Its either less travel or steeper geometry.

whisperdancer · « **Reply #11 on:** July 31, 2011, 02:19:21 pm »

But with more sag, is it possible for the shock to bottom out easily?
It's not easy to make an adapter that fits a 190mm shock.
I think I will make a very short one made of stainless steel and keep the 190mm shock. As it will be short, the material needs to be stronger than aluminum.
I prefer a higher volume chamber (since this geometry works with lower pressures) than a small chamber.

shovelon · « **Reply #12 on:** July 31, 2011, 06:50:37 pm »

Hey Whisper, you are right on making the adapter from stainless. I use a 190 shock and actually got it into the hole where the cone sits, and the shock works perfect. A little higher than that and I think you will be fine.
Here is an old photo showing the shock mounted. I set the sag at 20%.

Terry

whisperdancer · « **Reply #13 on:** August 01, 2011, 01:52:21 am »

Hi Terry.

I can't see the photo, but didn't you had yours locked between two plates welded in the strut?
I went to a bike builder nearby, but he didn't want to touch the original strut.
He proposed to make a new strut made with an Easton BB part (the one that is welded in the back of the BB and opens to the chainstays) he uses there.
It's a very hefty part (looks almost from a DH bike) and I didn't like the solution.
To keep the geometry, the shock eye should go inside the strut. If it stays above the strut with an adapter, I fear it will change too much the geometry, and every body knows how sometimes the crosslinks appears to throw you over the bars...

02gf74 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 02, 2011, 02:30:45 pm »

distance of the semi-circular cut out to bottom is 16 mm so that in theory is the maximum amount you can drop the shock so you are still 10 mm out .... but I don't think there is enough metal to do that.

the alternative is to move the top eyelet inthe frame, as was done on S size frame but the shock would need to be fitted upside down.

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Author Topic: final post about rear shock adapter - promise!! (Read 9649 times)