Drivetrain Components

[bikeflyer]

I need to replace most of the drivetrain components (shifters, front derailleur, crankset, BB, and rear cassette) on my Proflex 857.  Does anyone have specific recommendations on components, in particular regarding a good inexpensive crankset?  Since I now use this bike mainly on rail-trails, I was thinking of either a 46 or 48 tooth large ring Sugino XD600.  Another option would be to stay with a 44 tooth chainring, and go with a Shimano LX.  I was also considering switching from 7 speed to 8 speed gearing, in order to take advantage of component availability. 

[fyrstormer]

I'd go with XT derailleurs, personally. My bike came with LX and they wore out pretty fast, shifting got inaccurate. Replaced with over the course of 200-2005 and it's been trouble-free ever since.

[mootsguy]

I am a big fan of a Campy Chorus front derailleur, an XTR rear in combination with Paul thumbies and Dura-Ace bar con shifters. They are comfortable, easy to use and should the indexing ever fail you have friction to fall back on to get you home.

If you are thinking of a 2X setup you could then use a Dura-Ace rear derailleur short cage as it has the capacity to handle up to 12X34 cassettes.

There are a large number of possible combinations, but my current favorite is a 2X8 setup that uses an LX front d, a Dura-Ace short cage rear d and Pauls thumbies with Dura-Ace shifters.

[fyrstormer]

Why would you want thumbies?? I've never had a problem with either my GripShift or my Shimano XT shifters. (I prefer the GripShifts, but the ratcheting shifters work fine too.)

[mootsguy]

For me it is a matter of comfort, ease of motion and the fact that I can get as many gears at once as I need. Plus the fact that the Dura-Ace shifters are buttery smooth.

[DugB]

I like XTR M950/952 series stuff (especially the low-clamp front derailleur with the hinged cage). You can still find stuff in good condition, but it goes for a fraction of the original cost now, especially on eBay. It's tough and very light, even compared with modern X.O. If you end up buying a crank, though, I'd stay away from the ones where the spider and big ring were a single piece, and instead look for one of the versions with the separate 5-arm spider (or buy a cheap XTR crank and fit it with the Middleburn 4-arm spider specifically for this crank). That said, any crank would work well...I really like Race Face Racerings chainrings...great shifting.

- Doug

[Thunderchild]

A typical aluminum middle chainring lasts me around a year.  I decided to try a Surly stainless steel middle chainring.  If it would last two years, it would be worth the cost.  I used it on my Oz until the BB problem.  It is now on my 5000 and showing few signs of wear.  Recently found the receipt.  I purchased it in 2006. 

Thunderchild

[fyrstormer]

I like XTR M950/952 series stuff (especially the low-clamp front derailleur with the hinged cage). You can still find stuff in good condition, but it goes for a fraction of the original cost now, especially on eBay. It's tough and very light, even compared with modern X.O. If you end up buying a crank, though, I'd stay away from the ones where the spider and big ring were a single piece, and instead look for one of the versions with the separate 5-arm spider (or buy a cheap XTR crank and fit it with the Middleburn 4-arm spider specifically for this crank). That said, any crank would work well...I really like Race Face Racerings chainrings...great shifting.

- Doug

Yeah, I try to steer clear of anything non-standard -- though I see some companies make 4-bolt chainring adaptors for the Shimano cranks that used the big chainring as the spider.