Nuke proof hubs free hub body?

[efxguy]

OK, so I've gotten the bearings worked out, now how do I go about getting the free hub replaced or rebuilt?

I've been able to remove the free hub, but have not tried to open it yet. It would seem that you have to press out the cartridge bearing cup to do so and in any case, you'd probably have to do so to use it in any replacement.

Has anyone been there and done that?

Thanks,

Michael
955 Pro-Flex
Chicago-ish, IL USA

[orange]

have you been over to www.retrobike.co.uk - they may be able to advise?

[DugB]

I'm in the same position with 2 sets of Pulstar wheels...one is the cheap version for which I'm almost ashamed of the purchase...but the other uses sealed, easily replaceable bearings...but all have the super-weak, mega-crap freehub body. There's a guy who has machined an adapter (which I'm going to try to create myself), but with all I've done to contact him I feel like a stalker...he's a frame builder named Tim Thompson (or TimT on some forums), but I can't seem to reach him.

You could always make an adapter allowing for the use of off-the-shelf Shimano freehub bodies (or have a machine shop do it).

In general, any adapter allowing Shimano freeubs to mount on other manufacturers' hubs needs to have the following:
- an interface to the Shimano freehub body that has the wavy spline pattern, mating with the back of the freehub body
- an interface to the hub on the other side (the Pulstar freehub body just screws on directly, so the adapter will have the same screw threads)
- internal threads that match those on the Shimano freehub's freehub body attachment bolt (the lone one with the 10mm allen interface on one side and the really fine threads on the other).

The only other thing to consider is how the drive-side bearings work. If they are sealed bearings then the freehub body would need to have the rounded ball bearing races machined flat to allow for a sealed bearing...however, if the hub uses individual balls like most Shimano freehub bodies, then the adaptation should be significantly easier.

Luckily my Pulstar hubs are still working, and I just re-lubed the freehub bodies. One set is really nice, hand build by Wheelsmith and with really nice, blue hubs (the higher quality 9000-series hubs, made when Pulstar realized it's quality mistake as a futile last ditch effort at reestablishing its reputation).

Any chance of finding a used hub with a good freehub body that you can use?

- Doug

[Thunderchild]

I have a set of Nuke Proofs.  I converted the rear hub (in 1993) to a 135 spacing from a 130 with a kit from Nuke Proof.  Now I am curious.  I will see if I can take it apart.  I do remember using the axle to tap out the bearing on one side.  Is the cartridge bearing accepting freehub body a Nuke Proof custom or ? 

I also have three Pulstar hubs.  Great hubs.  I remember talking with the owner as the company was on its way out.  I had started a small bike business and sold a few Pulstars and of course stocked up on a few.  There entire shipment of freehub bodies for their last rear hub were off spec upon arrival from Taiwan.  If you have one of these, I do, that is why the freehub body rubbed on the hub.  He was also going through a divorce at the time.  Not sure if he couldn't afford to go after the Taiwan company or ?

Thunderchild 

[efxguy]

To keep this on track for Nuke Proof hubs, I'm not sure how it all relates to Pulstar hubs.

To take a Nuke Proof apart begin by removing the spacers from each side of the axle, you will need an .050 hex wrench or similar. Then use a rubber mallet to tap the axle through the hub. This will push out the sealed bearing on one side. Be gentle, since the axle flange is pushing on the inner race of the bearing and may damage it on removal. Repeat for the other side. At this point you should have the two axle spacers, the axle and the two sealed bearings free. At this point take a 10mm hex key and clamp it in your bench vice, place the hum over the hex key hub side down. You are trying to engage the hex flats inside where the axle was previously, adjust the hex key if you need to. Once the hex key is engaged with the flats inside the hub, grasp the wheel and turn to the left, the hub keeper should then simply unscrew. At this point the free hub body will be free from the hub.

This is as far as I've gone. It seems that at this point, you have to remove the hub keeper screw by pressing it out against the cartridge bearing cup removing the cup in the process.


Regards,

Michael
955 Pro-Flex
Chicago-ish, IL USA

[DugB]

I do like the design of the Pulstar hubs, and hope to keep these going...but the freehub is problematic, and for the set I have with sealed bearings I've never come across another for sale. The fronts are easy...I think I have 2 extra front suspension hubs for use with sealed bearings. But the rear is tough to find. As far as I can tell they all (even the ballbearing, cheap-o Pulstars) use the threaded, screw-in freehub body.

The guy who founded the company is even on LinkedIn, and must have started a new company at one point to manufacture straight-pull BMW wheels: Roundwheels. Doesn't seem like much has come from them. Pulstars can be had cheap, but I must admit to heavily lusting after what I feel is the 21st century incarnation of the Pulstar concept: Industry 9 Superlights (drooooooooool)

- Doug :-)