857 rear shock mount adaptor solution

[orange]

Here are pictures of my 855 with new NR-4 and my 857 with JeffHop's Risse shock using my own adaptor. After previous discussions about this can anybody see any problems with how I've mounted it - especially with regard to lateral movement?

[jeffhop]

ed, id have mounted it the other way round so the valve was easier to get to and also could you get another section made to bolt on with a longer bolt that totally boxes the shock in around what youve already got to stop any side to side movement?  just a thought.

[orange]

Thanks for your points - I did try it the other way up but there were 2 issues - the rebound lever assembly *only just* cleared the gussets (would possibly need to cut out some metal to make a good fit and secondly the width of the shock at the point where the adaptor fits just happened to fit precisely that way up so it seemed to make sense - but I like your idea about a boxed adaptor - may see if I can persuade my mate to make one up. Did you get anywhere with yours?

[Carbon_Angus]

IF there is any problem with lateral movement...it sure looks like you will notice something drastic, like collapse....sorry to be a pessimist. Can Risse retrofit that shock or offer you some kind of credit to get the right adapter?

the original Nr's would blow from the lateral and non-linear movement of the swing~arm. I only see trouble.

[shovelon]

Not to worry about lateral movement. The upper mount keeps the structure straight. And the risse shock is much more stout than a noleen.

For some reason, I can't get the image function  to or I  have had one to many brews. What is the procedure??

Terry
           

[orange]

Thanks for everybody's input.

Host your image and then click on 'properties' to reveal its URL. Then paste the URL between (img) and (/img) except use [ brackets not (

Can't quite see from your photo your setup - got any close ups?

I like Jeffhop's idea of boxing it in - might get a couple of plates and bolt them together either side of the shouck mount.

[kiwi]

i moded your post terry,just enclose the url with
{img} url{/img} as suggested,your url was correct.How come your setup seems to have the shock and swingarm and shock much flatter than the 855,or is it the camera angle deceiving?

[shovelon]

i moded your post terry,just enclose the url with
{img} url{/img} as suggested,your url was correct.How come your setup seems to have the shock and swingarm and shock much flatter than the 855,or is it the camera angle deceiving?

Hey, you know you are right. I recall the strut is designed to be parrallel to the front downtube. I never caught that before.
Here is a different pic. {img}http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1036595/Proflexwithmods,Aug.31.JPG {/img}

[kiwi]

Actually after looking more carefully isee that the 857 looks like a way big(see the headtube lehgth(or at least the gap between the top tube and the down tube,where as the 855 and your 957 look like mediums.

[orange]

Indeed - 857 is a Way Big (head tube something like 180mm - difficult to get a steerer long enough!), the 855 is a medium I think.

[Carbon_Angus]

Not to worry about lateral movement. The upper mount keeps the structure straight. And the risse shock is much more stout than a noleen.

Terry
           

thanks Terry.....as a new Risse owner....I need to rethink a few things.

Angus

[willem]

Or you could try the Neanderthal Method... It's so easy a caveman could do it.

Like this...
I machined the lower end of my shock to fit into the cone recess. Then I ran the "cone bolt" into a threaded hole drilled longitudinally into the shock mount. With all that done, I wrapped it all in a cocktail sauce of JB Weld and aluminum fibers.

It has proven quite stout. At 210# I take pretty good drops with no worries.

There are probably some pics in my gallery if you can find it... look under will and/or willem.

Go get 'em
Will

[orange]

great idea but doesn't it make it difficult to replace without changing strut as well ;-)

[willem]

That's the beauty of the whole thing... no mods to the strut to install and remove the strut.

Just take out the bolt, bust the shock free with a little side loading and file the JB Weld down to the bare aluminum.

So it's not an F1 pit stop to change shox, but it is cheap, light, and strong.