Hub/Freewheel interlock worn-what would you

[Scott]

use to take up some of the slack between the fingers and hub indents?  JB weld is it tough enough or a 24 hour epoxy?  I know it wont be long before the freewheel spins off the hub indents.  Maybe Stud and Bearing mount?

[Old Proflexer]

huh?

are you talking the splines on the interface between the cassette cogs and the freehub body?

OP

if so, freehub bodys are replaceable.  remove the axle etc. and insert a 10-12 mil allen thru the race and remove.  some of the newer models have a pin to be removed first but many just unscrew from the rear hub (internally).

usually costs about $20 or so if its a standard shimano type.

if i'm off base here, forget everything i just said - if not, sounds like you should take it to an LBS

[Scott]

Thanks OP, but its the freehub/hub interface seen after removal of the freehub and is what holds the interior of your freehub stationary. Those alloy indents of the hub are interlocked with the steel fingers of the freehub body. The slop thats developed could be taken up for a while by some type of strong "liquid metal"

[Scott]

if epoxy were used would "mold release" prevent adhesion to the freehub?

[Old Proflexer]

might first want to try something that won't adhere permanently to the parts but still fill the gaps and prevent the slop you describe.

just some thoughts - to remove slop / loose bolts etc. i've used teflon tape, spray paint, clear nail polish etc. anything to lay down a layer or two or three, take up some space between parts and can later be removed if necessary.

not sure how loose things are for you - if minimal invasive techniques fail, then ya, pull out the big stuff.

OP