Chain binding

[mfgp]

Almost got my parts swapped over to my new frame.  Ran in to one glitch.  

A couple weeks ago I was in Tallahassee riding and my master link took a hike and the chain broke.  I went to a LBS and had them install a new chain.  This one did not have a master link.  When I took it off my old bike, I used the standard chain tool and pushed the pin out.  When installing on the new bike, I aligned the pin and used the tool to press it in.  But that link binds.  I removed and replaced it several times, with the same result.  Finally, I removed another link and tried to replace it with the same results as well.  

Is there a technique to doing this?  Or are there some chains that you cannot replace the pins in without this problem?  This chain is a Sram.

Looks like I'm off to the LBS to get a master link tomorrow.  

TIA

 

[jimbo]

Once you get the link connected, you need to put you thumb on the head of pin of the new link and bend the chain back and forth.  Do this several times and it should loosen the binding pin.  There might be a better way with tools, but that's how I loosen mine up.

Looks like someone at the bike shop made off with your power link.  I'm using a low end Sram chain and it's got the link.

[Carbon_Angus]

sometimes those pins can be a real pain and when you monkey with the pin to get it just right, you often will have a problem with that link/pin popping out on you on a not so far off time.

my reco is to get a power link and install it on your chain, pronto.

in the meantime, take your chain tool and push that pin ever so slighlty, one way or the other until it won't bind....put it though its motions with your hands till it won't bind.

[Mike_Farris]

This sort of thing happens to me all the time. No matter how hard I try, the chain always binds up where the chain tool is used.

I usually stick a screwdriver between the link plates that are binding and try to separate the plates a bit by prying them. Everything works fine after that.

Guess my hands just aren't strong enough to do it bare-fisted...  

[Old Proflexer]

this is a very common problem with chains - the screwdriver thing and pushing the pin back and forth with your chain breaker tool ever so slightly works as well.  usually the two outer plates are too tight against the two inner plates/roller and need to be moved out a bit towards the edges of that pin.  however you accomplish that will usually solve the problem.  i'll bend the chain sideways a few times as well to loosen a link.  

old road chains were the worst culprits and the newer chains like the sram pc 99 with double stamped pins can be a monumental pain on tight links but the stamping (used to keep the plate from coming off the pin) provides a nice stop when widening the plates on the pins.

i know i always sound like i carry an extra everthing in my pack (i probably do) but an extra master link from an old chain is always in the pack.  i've used them on broken chains both mine and guys on the trail.  always keep your old master links and those 2-4 links you took off your chain to make it fit properly, in the pack in a baggie or such to help in the event of an trailside breakdown.  most everyone carries a chain breaker with them as a part of their toolsets.

just some thoughts

OP

[mfgp]

Thanks for all the input.  

The mechanic at my LBS told me that my mistake was taking the pin all the way out when I removed the chain in the first place.  He says it's impossible to get it back in right.  The pin should only be pushed out far enough to get the chain apart.  

I do carry a chain tool with me on the trial, but have never had to use it.  The extra master link is now going in the pack as well.  

[Mr.Ed]

I agree with OP, carry a few extra links.  I have used my chain tool 2 times in 3 years, and also a pin from the extra link supply.

Beats walking if you don't have a chain tool.  

[Shaggy]

Sounds like you've got the problem solved, but here's another easy method.  Most chain tools have two shelves.  The one used to break chains and put them back together is the one near the wall (opposite the handle).  That provides a solid surface for the chain to rest against when you're pushing the pin in or out.  The shelf in the middle is for loosening a bound link.  Example-if you put a chain back together, flip the tool to the other side of the chain on the same link, and apply a little bit of pressure to the pin.  This will set the pin perpendicular to the link.
In my experience, it's just a small turn of the handle.
Hope this helps...

[kiwi]

thanks shaggy well explained>>>I have experienced the tight link thing and i knew that i had solved it with my chain tool....but i just couldnt put it into words!!!!!!I vaguely recall that it was explained in the instructions   so ALL of you guys suffer from...who me I dont need the instructions.....

[GrimJack]

Shaggy has the official method down perfect.  Personally, I just bend the chain by hand - it's not that difficult, you don't need to apply very much side to side pressure.  [smiley=nod.gif]

The reason you didn't get a powerlink from the shop is easy to explain, too.  Many shops buy SRAM chain on a spool, and just measure off what they need for a bike, then cut it - almost like rope!  Places that do this usually don't like powerlinks, for a couple reasons - they aren't as strong as a regular chain link, and they have to buy them separately.

On my bike, I assemble it without the powerlink, and throw the powerlink into my pack for emergency use.