Carbon chainstay conversion

[Ionit]

I have always studied new ways to improve the geometry on my 4500C. Since I am a short rider I thought to improve back wheel traction I could shorten my chainstay by cutting my swingarm a little less then a half inch on both sides and reinsert both dropouts to bring the back wheel in under my centre of gravity. I've already though of tire clearance issues which could make the effort of riding again futile.
The Pros would be listed as 1. stiffer back end 2. less rear wheel steer 3. opportunity to change dropouts with manufactured disc ready inserts, 4. shorter chain would shed some weight.
Cons 1. brake bosses would be rendered useless, 2. wheel base is shortened, 3. can't run really fat knobbly tires, 4. theoretically less travel (because of shorter radius)
All off these cons are neglectable in my book.  
What do you think, keep or change the swingarm?

[Simon]

I would be very interested in the results,
however this is easy for me to say should things go wrong you've could end up with a trashed s/arm and in need of a (hard to get)replacement [smiley=worry.gif],I'm also unsure that there is enough tyre clearance to enable you to move the wheel forward enough to make a noticable difference,proceed cautiously.
Simon.

[Ionit]

Your right it could be very dangerous. I wanted to see if anybody was keen on the idea.
I myself like the idea and am quite adamant to try it in the future. When I demote my 4500 to "project bike." I've also measured my clearance, It is well over .5". It wouldn't surprise me if this swingarm was used on the XL model as well. There are allot of MTB's with a 16.75" chainstay. which is totally attainable with this kind of modification. the 4500's 17.1" chainstay length is pushing the limit of MTB rear wheel location and it was all because K2 wanted to use cheaper universal parts. there I dare say it.

[Simon]

You could go down the route of modifying a aluminium s/arm from an evo frame (some have an al s/arm),you'll need to widen (as I've done on my 4500) the pivot point area to enable it to clear he main frame first,but as its aluminium you can chop and re-weld as much as you like to get the s/arm length and wheel clearance you require as long as you jig it and build in enough strength (plus there is no weight penalty,they weigh the same as a carbon arm and there much stiffer to),you've kinda got me thinking now,must try harder to get hold of another al s/arm.
Simon.