K2 5000 frame info request

[Colin]

Hey wylyman and Matno

Pictures of your Disk brake mounts if poss?

I like the idea of not drilling the dropouts........a bit more info on how they're constructed.....?

Col.

[wylyman]

Hey wylyman and Matno

Pictures of your Disk brake mounts if poss?

I like the idea of not drilling the dropouts........a bit more info on how they're constructed.....?

Col.

Hey Colin, mine is simply some scap 1/4" aluminum,  three pieces.  The outer piece I shaped to fit the radius and curves in the dropout.  It also matches the half circle for the axle clamp.  The middle piece fits tightly in the oval shape and the inner piece is simply a custom shaped washer.  You will need to countersink the bolts on the inside to clear your wheelspokes.  Tools needed to do this are a 1/4-20 or similar tap and handle, countersink drills grinder or belt sander,  a bandsaw or something to cut profiles(save on grinding all that material away) and patience.  The bolts are SS from the hardware store.  Mine bolts on from the inside through the middle piece(two bolts) with flatheads and locktite.  Just make sure the through holes are slightly larger than your bolts for a tight fit.  The axle also helps hold it in place. (Possibly need a longer axle rod)  The positioning of the caliper I just had to eyeball and hope to get it right.  Someone else may have measurements for this.  It llooks very similar to Matno.  I rode it all summer without a problem.

[Matno]

Sounds like mine - or at least the way I intended mine to be. As I was making it, I realized that by beveling the edges of the piece I used to fill the oval in the dropout, I eliminated the need for an inner "washer" plate. Mine is actually recessed a bit because the oval in my dropout was slightly beveled (I don't think they had great machine tolerances on that particular cutout). However, if I were doing it over, I would just leave the oval plate slightly larger than the cutout on the inner edge and smaller on the outer edge (to wedge tightly into the oval cutout). I then used washers as spacers to line up the brake mounts where they should be. My washers also happen to fit snugly against the dropout itself, which gives the adaptor added support.

I just drilled and tapped 5mm threads into the plates themselves. I have a couple of low-res pics in my gallery, but I just took some better ones. Since the gallery isn't working for uploading right now, just send me a pm with your email address, and I'll email you the pics (if you're interested). Looking at these new pics, I'm realizing that I should have used stainless or ti bolts. Mine are quite rusty! Oh well. They still work, and I'm sure the rust is just superficial. (No thanks to the plumbing leak that made my basement damp for a month last summer and put rust and mold on ALL my bikes! Grrrrr...)

Oh, and here's a diagram I drew of it (from my existing gallery):

[wylyman]

 I never thought of doing that with the wedge shape.  The downside to mine is little clearance and should ever one of the bolts loosen a disaster with  my spokes and a  major crash.  Hopefully locktite will do it.  
Also one pointer,  try loosening the scerws on your deraileur hanger.  Mine both stripped out before they both broke loose and I had to use an extractor to get them out.  Not exactly a trailside repair.  The only screws I could find to replace them were Philips SS from the hardware store.  A backup hanger in your pack is good idea.  Never can be to prepared.  

[kondilemma]

There's nothing more bittersweet than having a sweet deal slip through your fingers.  The frame in question here sold for less than $100 in Canadian funny-money; that's peanuts for you folks down south and those across the pond.  

And after all the great info you people provided!

Oh well.  

-Brt