Author Topic: It's 2016, still looking for a K2 Proflex 5000! (Read 27233 times)

Willie_B · « **Reply #15 on:** July 18, 2016, 04:57:54 am »

Took a guess and missed it by a year. Here is the 1998 spec then.
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1998&brand=K2&model=ProFlex+4000

Willie_B · « **Reply #16 on:** July 18, 2016, 06:20:19 am »

I have a used front XTR FD-M961 that will fit. Yours for the cost of postage if you are interested.

serviceguy · « **Reply #17 on:** July 18, 2016, 06:55:33 am »

Interested for sure. PayPal Ok ? If so please send me a PM with your PP address and the price shipped. Top Swing/Bottom pull 31.8, correct ? Thank you!

serviceguy · « **Reply #18 on:** August 02, 2016, 01:17:26 pm »

As expected once almost all of the parts I needed arrived, I start preparing the frame for reassembly...and found a big dent on the right side of the down tube, right under the 'K' of 'K2'...I think I can actually feel the material flex if I push it with my finger, but it could be just my imagination. Trying to find a TIG welder or a frame repair shop that would tackle the dent and fix it (the frame is straight otherwise, the damage to the down tube does not seem to affect the structure of the frame), I found some info on aluminum brazing rods that apparently are being used even for structural repair on aluminum parts (Hobart sells them among others). Is this a common practice and could actually help my case? The area to be addressed will have to be heated up to 700F deg in order for the rod to melt and bond to the metal so metal expansion would be a concern there. Any input would be appreciated.

shovelon · « **Reply #19 on:** August 02, 2016, 09:20:06 pm »

Quote from: serviceguy on August 02, 2016, 01:17:26 pm

As expected once almost all of the parts I needed arrived, I start preparing the frame for reassembly...and found a big dent on the right side of the down tube, right under the 'K' of 'K2'...I think I can actually feel the material flex if I push it with my finger, but it could be just my imagination. Trying to find a TIG welder or a frame repair shop that would tackle the dent and fix it (the frame is straight otherwise, the damage to the down tube does not seem to affect the structure of the frame), I found some info on aluminum brazing rods that apparently are being used even for structural repair on aluminum parts (Hobart sells them among others). Is this a common practice and could actually help my case? The area to be addressed will have to be heated up to 700F deg in order for the rod to melt and bond to the metal so metal expansion would be a concern there. Any input would be appreciated.

Need pictures. It may be fine as is.

That brazing rod is a bandaid at best. You would be better off filling with Labmetal epoxy to add rigidity and then paint. But it may be fine. I tig weld, but if it were mine I would consider leaving it. The frame is made from 7005 alloy and very forgiving to quick welding. I would only weld it if it were cracked.

Terry

serviceguy · « **Reply #20 on:** August 03, 2016, 06:39:38 pm »

I think I'll leave as it is for the time being. I stopped by a local reputable shop and the guy also confirmed it's not affecting the frame rigidity. Thanks for the feedback.

fyrstormer · « **Reply #21 on:** August 07, 2016, 01:41:30 pm »

That's one of the reasons I'm not a big fan of the Girvin dual-crown forks, btw. They have an annoying tendency to dent the top-tube in crashes. Amazingly, mine didn't, but that was pure luck. The dents might be cosmetic, but I still dislike them.

Every time I think about endo-ing over the hood of that car I hit back in college, I'm amazed the steertube welds didn't fail on the spot. I hit hard enough to launch myself clear over the car, and the bike clear over *me*. (which was good, because it would've hurt like hell if the bike had landed on me.) Good stuff these bikes are made of.

serviceguy · « **Reply #22 on:** August 08, 2016, 01:58:00 pm »

Actually this dent is way past the reach of the fork tubes.

Joe DeWeeese · « **Reply #23 on:** August 08, 2016, 02:35:13 pm »

How about a Girvin Pro-Flex mod 953? I just posted mine on eBay.

Pictures http://www.fototime.com/users/jtsd38@gmail.com/Girvin%20PRO-FLEX%20Model%20953%20Mtn.%20Bike%20%20Vintage%20-%20Collector%201993%20

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172297162011?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

jtsd38@gmail.com is my email if anyone wants more info. I live in central Oregon, USA

serviceguy · « **Reply #24 on:** August 09, 2016, 06:55:29 am »

Joe, beautiful bike but not what I had in mind. I was outbid on both amint OZ large frame and an almost complete crossling fork on ebay, they both would have been perfect to my end, oh well! I start being fond of my dented 4000 frame anyway...

serviceguy · « **Reply #25 on:** March 22, 2017, 05:50:40 am »

...and now I've finally got a 5000 frame from an e-bay seller! This was a little bit of a gamble, from the seller measurements it did sound like a medium frame, once I got it the measurements are matching exactly my large 4000...great, now I have to build this frame too!

The hoarding disease is coming out really bad, I also have a small 857 small frame (with the swing arm and rear shock only) and a Noleen Crosslink parts only fork incoming. I am basically stocking up parts waiting for a good 957 large frame coming around for the ultimate Proflex retro build.

DugB · « **Reply #26 on:** July 13, 2017, 12:52:30 pm »

Wouldn't the ultimate Proflex retro build be a 956 LE? :-P

- Doug

Colin · « **Reply #27 on:** July 14, 2017, 05:17:32 am »

Or an OzM Superlight?
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/MGalleryItem.php?id=605
<GRIN>

Col.

DugB · « **Reply #28 on:** July 14, 2017, 06:08:48 am »

Isn't that basically a 5500c in US parlance? The ultimate K2 production ride, yes, but a bike that had full production levels. Weren't there only a hundred or so 956LEs?

- Doug :-)

serviceguy · « **Reply #29 on:** July 31, 2017, 07:10:48 am »

I gravitate more toward the XX7 proflex series and the K2 4000/4500/5000/5500/OzM/OzX (with the pivot in fornt of the BB to be clear). To me the 957 is still the perfect proflex, but sellers are asking not-so-small fortunes for one.

The 857 frame never got to my door, the seller flaked and i got the money back.

I'm slowly collecting parts to be able and build the 5000 and possibly acquiring a carbon frame (either 4500/5500 or OzM/OzX in size large) but the keyword being 'cheap' it's not that easy, as most seller want to sell their 'time capsule' bike fully built for a small fortune. I just can't justify spending $1500+ on a 20 years old bike that will never increase its value.

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Author Topic: It's 2016, still looking for a K2 Proflex 5000! (Read 27233 times)