Steer tube spacers

[spikebender]

After looking at tom853's stem modification (nice job by the way) I was wondering is that much spacing normal? I had my Girivins on my 656 for a short while, no spacers were needed. On my 855 ( the frame that my Girvins  originaly came from)  require close to 3/4" while still keeping the 1mm to 3mm at the top per instructions. also the fork linkage is angled down more causing the spring to want to rub on the bottom bearing cup. I've owned four different Pro Flex's the past 12 years, but these are my first set of Girvins. I have the manual on disk (thanks Willie_B) but thats strait forward for instalation. Ya can't ask it questions. Any input on the subject would be great.                                                                     
                                                                                Thanks, Tracy

[kiwi]

the spacers are there to acheive the critical measurement...

[petes97857]

Hi there
I used to have a Profllex 754 with Girvin Vector 1 forks with the combined shock mount stem combination
if I remember correctly there was a reducer shim and two spacer shims above the upper headset bearings
Reducer shim 1" steerer tube. 11/8" headset
Spacer shims 2x10mm height 1"ID
I have a photo of the bike zoom in for more detail

http://i907.photobucket.com/albuums/ac280/petes97857/proflex754.jpg

Hope this is of some use
Pete

[petes97857]

Just checked to see if link worked but it didn't
To view picture please look me up on photobucket.
petes97857
It is in album 4

[Colin]

the spacers are there to acheive the critical measurement...

Here it is for Crosslinks:

Critical measurment is probably different for a Vector, if I get around to it I could measure my OEM fitted ones..........



Col.

[kiwi]

the spacers are there to acheive the critical measurement...

Here it is for Crosslinks:

Critical measurment is probably different for a Vector, if I get around to it I could measure my OEM fitted ones..........



Col.

its all there Colin,the CM is 153 for a oem vector 2

[elPedro666]

Just exactly the info I've been struggling for, thanks! 

I'm guessing playing around just either side of the critical measurement will alter geometry - both steering and axle path - slightly.  Has anybody experienced this or know why I shouldn't experiment too much...? 

[Spokes]

You might find it wears things out a bit faster as well if there is more stress due to increased angles.
The worst that can happen it you will crash and seriously hurt your self!  .
Which we wouldn't want to happen!! So may be best to stick to the measurements supplied. After all they did a lot of testing to find them.
Chris

[Colin]

Hmmmm, I wouldn't recommend playing with the critical measurement, forks I have seen with this grossly wrong have usually failed or been operating completing incorrectly.
Bear in mind that the CM also affects the shock e2e mounting points.
If you decrease the CM, you are compressing the shock and thus limiting travel, not really desirable, surely?
If you increase it, then the maximum CM will be the maximum travel of the shock and thus accentuate any "Topping out" impacts, also not desirable........?
I vaguely recall a slight compression of the ODS was necessary on my Vector II's to reassemble it to the fork when the CM (as built by the manufacturer) was correct.
Sorry if this sounds critical, one of the wonderful things about this forum is the wealth of new and radical ideas that are generated to keep our bikes going and indeed to improve them and also the positive spirit with which this is received, reviewed and responded to by the forum members, so don't be put off, maybe you'll reach an unexpected revelation!
Good luck.
Col.

[elPedro666]

Thanks guys,  appreciate the input

It turned out my original 'by eye' assembly had got me pretty close, about a mil & a half long, so I was pretty pleased with that!  Given it it's first ride and have to say I really enjoyed it, steep climbing especially was fantastic

A few things have shown up though, mostly that nothing is in line.  So I think my next job is to strip & reassemble the forks, possibly with fresh bushes as they did feel quite sticky.  Ditto the back end which is kicked so far left the only decent chainline is in the granny ring

Rear shock needs a rebuild too, distinct lack of oil in my amateur opinion!

Thanks again, looks like this will be more of a long term project than originally planned...

[Colin]

You'll need these then:

Fork Alignment instructions
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=304;dl

Vector II Assembly:
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=305;dl

Col.

[elPedro666]

Colin you're a legend, saved me a bunch of time searching,  thanks!

Notice you've a Maverick in your sig: mate of mine just picked up the bones of one to restore - or at least rebuild - any pics of your's on the site (or a similar, non Flex-specific retro site perhaps...)?  See if it inspires him!

[fyrstormer]

A few things have shown up though, mostly that nothing is in line.  So I think my next job is to strip & reassemble the forks, possibly with fresh bushes as they did feel quite sticky.

Heh. I crashed into the side of a car back when my 756 still had the original Girvin Vector fork, and it twisted the fork a bit. It was really stiff at first; I loosened all the bolts, wiggled everything around to let it settle into a comfortable position, and tightened the bolts again. It was still twisted, but it worked fine until I could afford to replace it two years later.

Ditto the back end which is kicked so far left the only decent chainline is in the granny ring

I don't think that will work; if the swingarm is bent, then it's ruined, and in any event, its position is non-adjustable. As far as I know, the only way to adjust the chainline is to buy a wider or narrower bottom-bracket, and fill in the extra space with spacer rings. Alternately, buy a bottom-bracket that doesn't have a stop-plate on one side, and adjust the chainline to whatever position you want -- just make sure to tighten the lockring on the non-drive side extra tight (AFTER applying anti-seize to the threads!), to keep the BB from coming loose.

[elPedro666]

If it's the swing arm I'll be very happy as a friend's offered me one cheap!  However I fear it's the frame mount...  I'm running a single ring in the granny position as it's the oly way to get it far enough inboard, out I could bodge much easier!  Unfortunately it's now rubbing on the underside of the swingarm by the pivot.

When I get chance to strip it we should be able to spot the culprit for certain...

I'm hoping that trick will work with my forks too, although I may treat it to new bushes anyway

[fyrstormer]

Post a top-down (or bottom-up) picture of the misaligned drivetrain. It's really hard to tell if something is actually messed up without seeing it.