Author Topic: Oz fork question/poll (Read 7968 times)

Dennis · « **on:** February 14, 2003, 11:24:21 pm »

Hi,
How many of you Oz owners have replaced your Xlink with a slider fork?
I think alot, so here's the question:
Is it better to put a 3" travel fork on the Oz, or is 4" acceptable? Does the 4" fork screw up the geometry much?
Here's the deal: I am doing alot of private tutoring right now (I'm a teacher) so I have some money for a really good fork that would be easy to mount my Avid discs on. The fork that I have researched to be the best is the Fox RLC air fork, but its a 4" fork, which would be really cool to have.
Please let me know your opinions on this. thanks again.

GET · « **Reply #1 on:** February 14, 2003, 11:37:44 pm »

Go for the 4" fork. The difference in geometry is minimal and perhaps even better. The rear travel is more than 4" already. The geometry difference when you change your rear shock might combine to change your geometry. If you go with a longer fork and a shorter rear shock, then you will slacken the geometry (still not severely). If you go with a longer fork and a longer rear shock, the effects will tend to cancel. I'm probably telling you things you already know.

For reference, I went with a 3" fork. I sprang for a Duke Race when they were first discounted some time back. The Race model only comes in 80mm (3"). I was doing fast crosscountry almost exclusively at the time. Now I like to throw in more downhill-like (mild by western standards) riding, so I wish I had the longer travel.

Dennis · « **Reply #2 on:** February 15, 2003, 12:59:41 am »

GET,
sounds like good advice, and it turns out the Fox fork I am looking at is adjustable between 80 and 100 anyway.
thanks for the info.

5500C · « **Reply #3 on:** February 15, 2003, 04:49:37 am »

Go with the sliders. I was in the same position last month when I upgraded to a Fox RC for the rear. I decided to get a Manitou black elite 100/120 and haven't turned back. Plus you get the added benefit of being able to get discs.

Wish I could justify spending the $$$ on the Fox forx, but am really happy with my Manitou. I have a couple of pix in my gallery. Just put on my rear disc with my Hammerhead with pix coming soon.

Carbon_Angus · « **Reply #4 on:** February 15, 2003, 05:19:00 am »

when the Oz came out it had a x-link because that's what k2 was doing or contracted to do...did it have a smart fork option, too

anyway there is no reason NOT to go with a slider for a full suspension bike with almost 5 inches of rear travel stock. i never had anything but a slider on my Oz, though. if you go with a 80-100 option, okay, maybe a 100-120 option is better, really, especially if you go with an aftermarket rear shock.

oh and of course you have discs now, too.

the Oz can be a good xc bike, but a GREAT trailbike and discs and 4-5 inches of travel all around is real nice.

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #5 on:** February 15, 2003, 06:51:57 am »

i opted for the psylo sl which is adjustable 'tween 3 and 5" with the twist of knob and in doing so, adjusts the front end geometry, excellent external compression and rebound adjustment.

course i still ride the crosslink too - with disc brakes.

Dennis · « **Reply #6 on:** February 15, 2003, 11:39:42 am »

so OP, since you have both Xlink and psylo, which do you prefer for all around trail riding?
please let me know.
I know about the disc brake adapter for the Xlink, but it would ALOT easier to do discs with a slider fork considering that I don't really have a place to do metal work.

Matno · « **Reply #7 on:** February 15, 2003, 02:22:20 pm »

Angus is right. If you're going to spring for a really nice fork like the Fox, you are probably better off going with the 100-120 option than the 80-100 option. 80mm is really only enough for very mild XC riding (fireroad type riding) or racing, in my opinion. It's not that great on anything technical. 100 is PERFECT for all around trail riding, and 120 is really nice for the occasional rough descent (or just extra rough trails - I know there are lots of rocks where you ride!)

GET · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2003, 09:23:32 pm »

Hey Dennis,
I second what Matno says. If you're doing any heavy duty trails, I would not hesitate going with a 120mm travel fork.

Dennis · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2003, 11:35:12 am »

ok, the new Fox Talas air spring forks are adjustable from 85 - 125 mm on the fly. pretty cool, huh?
so , how necessary is a lock out? I can't afford the one with the lock out, but I can afford the one that only has adjustable rebound.
color is right for Blue Crush, gray with blue lettering, cool, huh?
anyway, how many people think a lock out is necessary? I don't have it now (riding on a Xlink) and don't think it hurts climbing, I could just adjust the new fork to 85 mm for climbing.
let me know what you guys think, I am depending on you for good info, and know that I will receive it from you guys.
oh, supposedly this thing only weighs 3.2 lbs. according to BeyondBikes.com
seems doubtful to me, but cool if its true.

Matno · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2003, 02:02:10 am »

The Fox Talas forks look cool. As for the lockout issue... The usefulness of a rear shock lockout is dubious at best, and much less useful on a fork. If you EVER used it on anything but paved sprints, I would be very surprised.

Since you are getting a nice road bike, I know you're not going to be riding the Blue Crush on pavement much if at all. Bottom line: lockout on a fork is NOT worth the money/extra weight. Especially not when you can crank it down to 3 inches anyway!

Dennis · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2003, 03:25:16 am »

Matno,
good point, I agree with you on that one. It will save me about a hundred bucks not getting the fork with the lockout. you can only adjust rebound damping on the one I am going to get, the top of the line one has rider adjustable rebound damping, lockout, and compression damping in addition to the rider adjustable travel. too much fiddling, not enough riding, plus it adds weight, complexity, and money.
as for the road bike, its on hold right now. just not sure what to do. I need to spend a few bucks on the old car right now (I think it may need a new turbo, it seems to be leaking oil) anyway, thanks for the input.

GET · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2003, 03:29:14 am »

I'll try not to make a habit out of agreeing too often, but here I do. At least on the local trails, I have to bump over just as many rocks and roots on the way up as the way down. I would never use a lockout on these single track trails. Bob is not much of an issue in my case.

5500C · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2003, 03:31:30 am »

I really like the quick travel adjustment on the Manitou's. I just flip the lever between 100 or 120 and compress the shock and bingo, I'm at that travel setting. I'm not sure how the Psylo's work, but I did mess around with the Fox and while I like the knobs and the looks, I probably wouldn't want to tear up my fingers screwing and unscrewing the knob.

I know, I'm only stuck on 2 different travel settings, but it seems to work and it was a heck of a lot cheaper than dropping $400+ on the shock. Picked mine up for half that and it works awesome sans the whole sticker peeling issue, but that is just cosmetic

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2003, 04:15:31 am »

as much as i like the crosslink with disc setup - that bike has been designated for tag alongs and friends who wanna try an mtb

i've moved to the psylo with my 5th element. the psylo has complete on the fly adjustment for the compression (all the way to virtual lock) and travel adjustment is just a few complete turns of the knob on the other side to change the geometry from 3" to 5". Long up hills get the 3" and long down hills get the 5" -

the crosslink works great for tracking but the psylo excells at adjustability for changing conditions

OP

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Author Topic: Oz fork question/poll (Read 7968 times)