Author Topic: My old mule. (Read 24512 times)

DugB · « **Reply #30 on:** March 10, 2010, 12:53:13 pm »

Terry, that bike you made is a really neat design...how did it ride?

- Doug

shovelon · « **Reply #31 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:08:15 pm »

Quote from: fyrstormer on March 10, 2010, 09:43:18 am

Interesting. So why is aluminum so hard to weld compared to steel? Is it because it oxidizes so fast?

Anyway, on a different note, is it possible to remove the V-brake studs from a 756 swingarm? I remember trying years ago and I was afraid I was going to break the swingarm I was putting so much torque on the stud. Ended up damaging the stud and I had to sand it down so the V-brake would fit on it again. If I'm going to get disc tabs added, I won't need the studs anymore, and I'd like to remove them if possible, but I swear they were installed with an impact wrench or something.

Alum is easier to weld once you get past the learning phase and have to do it day in and day out.

Takes about 200 hours to figure it out if you last that long. Then about 1000 hours before I would trust you not to screw up, and 5000 hours before you are ready to certify.

The studs are bonded in. Takes some heat to break the bond.

shovelon · « **Reply #32 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:15:35 pm »

Quote from: DugB on March 10, 2010, 12:53:13 pm

Terry, that bike you made is a really neat design...how did it ride?

- Doug

Like a ballerina on a bucking bronco. Not my cup of tea. Just way too much travel. The shock was custom made by Works Performance when they were in Northridge. Cost a fortune.

Todd Shall and I built it along with another guy that made a custom tandem with his. Todd still has it now I hope. Actually just last summer we took a bunch of the spare swingarms and modified them for Honda 50 motorcycles.

fyrstormer · « **Reply #33 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:39:39 pm »

Quote from: shovelon on March 10, 2010, 01:08:15 pm

The studs are bonded in. Takes some heat to break the bond.

I had a feeling you were going to tell me that. Glad I didn't keep trying to twist them out. Any idea why they glued the damn things in when they could've just tapped some threads and screwed them in? I mean, what if they ever needed to be replaced?

When you say "some heat", are we talking boiling water, soldering iron, or blowtorch?

fyrstormer · « **Reply #34 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:43:01 pm »

Quote from: DugB on March 10, 2010, 12:51:08 pm

ASHBURN! I'm in Falls Church! We should ride sometime and I'll bring out one of the 'flexes! Ever head inside the beltway, e.g. to Wakefield?

Welcome!

- Doug :-)

Hi Doug.

I live in Ashburn and work in Herndon, so my day-to-day travels don't take me anywhere near the beltway, and everyone I know lives outside it, so...no, I don't make it inside the beltway much. Also, I'm loathe to strap my Bones rack on my brand-new car, so my riding has stayed pretty local lately.

Where did you have in mind?

shovelon · « **Reply #35 on:** March 10, 2010, 02:49:35 pm »

Quote from: fyrstormer on March 10, 2010, 01:39:39 pm

Quote from: shovelon on March 10, 2010, 01:08:15 pm
The studs are bonded in. Takes some heat to break the bond.
I had a feeling you were going to tell me that. Glad I didn't keep trying to twist them out. Any idea why they glued the damn things in when they could've just tapped some threads and screwed them in? I mean, what if they ever needed to be replaced?

When you say "some heat", are we talking boiling water, soldering iron, or blowtorch?

They are threaded and bonded with a clear highstrength loctite. A soldering iron may do the trick or a propane torch if you have one. Be careful to keep the heat on the stud and not the alum.

fyrstormer · « **Reply #36 on:** March 10, 2010, 03:04:59 pm »

I have a butane-fired soldering iron with a torch tip. Think that'll work? If not, maybe I'll just ask you to remove them while you're adding the disc tabs.

I know you've already said my swingarm is aluminum and not magnesium, but the spots where the paint has been chipped off have a yellowish oxide layer on them that forms over time. Is this normal for aluminum? The only other place I ever saw it was on similar chipped areas on my old Manitou SX-R, which I know had a magnesium lower.

shovelon · « **Reply #37 on:** March 10, 2010, 04:30:30 pm »

The Butane jig should do fine, but I can take them out if you don't want em back.

Could be the surface was chem-filmed before paint. I do that alot. As far as knowing a painter, I know plenty. We could talk about that later.

fyrstormer · « **Reply #38 on:** March 10, 2010, 06:48:22 pm »

Very good then, let's add "remove those damn brake studs" and "send it out to get the tabs painted" to the to-do list. Once the tabs get welded on, I won't be needing the studs anymore anyway.

The butane jig didn't work, unfortunately. My best pair of Vise-Grips accomplished nothing more than tearing up the surfaces of the studs even more.

What do the "applaud" and "smite" buttons above your AV do? They look a lot like something I was suggesting for a vBulletin forum I belong to.

fyrstormer · « **Reply #39 on:** March 11, 2010, 08:11:39 am »

I think you're right about the surface coating. Now that you mention it, the film is the exact same color as DuPont ChemKote.

shovelon · « **Reply #40 on:** March 11, 2010, 08:31:56 am »

Applaud gives someone karma points, Smite taketh away.

Spokes · « **Reply #41 on:** March 11, 2010, 08:37:49 am »

Well you learn something new every day! I wondered what they were for aswell.

Chris

orange · « **Reply #42 on:** March 12, 2010, 12:34:09 am »

Never sure how I have earned mine, although I have given a few karma's!

shovelon · « **Reply #43 on:** March 12, 2010, 07:52:47 am »

Quote from: orange on March 12, 2010, 12:34:09 am

Never sure how I have earned mine

Ya think?

fyrstormer · « **Reply #44 on:** March 23, 2010, 08:49:19 am »

Must...stop...ogling...Santa Cruz Superlight...

If my 756 ever gets demolished, I'm putting the parts on this.

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Author Topic: My old mule. (Read 24512 times)