857 Rebuild help

[LostSeb]

Hi

Been looking through the forums trying to find some answers to a few issues I'm having with a 857 rebuild with no luck.  Had an XWORKS 1996 and the rear suspension kept on playing up, ODS elastomers all froze up so I ordered a spring from you guys that worked great for a while untill I started having problems with the bottom bolt on the suspension working loose and eventually it snaped.  After an alternative replacement bolt was fitted by a local shop it again worked fine untill the second break when the bolt again sheared, this time bending the susspension strut in the process and rendering the entire frame almost useless!? (Any ideas on what I can do with just a frame and rear swing arm?)

So I wanted to keep a proflex going (had mine for years and am quite attached) but this ment buying a new frame (got an 857 in good nic of ebay for £60) but this is where my current problems begin.

The first thing is just a little question about the process of rebuilding the main pivot assembly.  I've had the whole bike apart and had the frame re-sprayed, then when I have gone to put the pivot face inserts into the frame it is really tough to get them in and then when there in and i try to put the rear (carbon) swingarm into place it feels like I am bending it (possibly due to the incressed thickness from the paint on this part of the frame).  Should this area, where the pivot face inserts meet the frame, be paint free?  Am I worrying unnessecceraly, and a layer of paint won't make any difference?

The second thing is a rear shock question.  The 857 frame I purchased came with a Noleen NR2 rear shock, which needs a service. :/  Looked everywhere for a possible solution, seems the only thing to do is to post it to j6/Noleen in the States and pay $100 just for the service plus postage.  A Risse replacement costs $199 plus postage, only avalible in the states and the only UK company that deals with ether of these shocks no longer exists.  Any advice?  Which is the best of the two options and is there an alternative?

[orange]

Hi and welcome!

Can you not find a replacement strut for the X-works? They do come up on Ebay from time to time - even if you buy a whole shonky old frame just for the strut... I believe any strut from an x56 or x55 will do as long as it is the 'world cup' design shape. That bolt does need to be a toughened one! I've seen a couple fail.

re bushings - yes it's possible you'll need to take back the paint in those areas.

re shock - after the options you have already proposed, you're kind of stuffed unless you can find a shock on Ebay (again, do occasionally come up on ebay), or you build some sort of adapter and fit a 'normal' shock. There are files and images on here that show you some examples of this.

[LostSeb]

Yo! 

Thanks Orange for the feedback, great stuff!

Good idea on the rear strut, will keep an eye out, future project I think. 2 Proflex's... awesome!

So the paints gotta come off! Bummer.  Are there any pics around of a 857 frame thats painted with the rear pivot assembly off so I could see what it looks like?

Will have a look round for other suspension possiblities but i think a new shock built to fit from Risse might be the best solution.  Does anyone have any experience of these shocks, are they any good?  Or is sticking with the Noleen NR2 a better idea?

Thanks again.

[orange]

Risse shocks are very good and light once set up (may not be spot on out of the box).

NR2 are not so great in my experience.

Don't quote me on the paint thing, but strikes me if you can't get the bushes in and the swingarm attached it could well be the paint that's getting in the way.

[shovelon]

In most cases the swingarm must be spread in order to slide onto the pivot face inserts without fouling the rubber seals. My trick, and don't take this seriously is to grease the rubber seal so it won't fall out, and then insert the swingarm at an angle so as to not force out the seal, then walk it on(rocking back and forth). I have also used a paint scraper to slide in between the pivot face insert and swingarm.

The spreader device that many use is a bolt and nut affair that opens the carbon for more play. I have never heard of anyone damaging the carbon yet.

Then once the whole affair is assembled, never ever remove the swingarm again to regrease. Use OP's quick regrease method.

Good Luck,
Terry

[Willie_B]

There is a flat machined area. There is no paint up to the lip at the edge of the machined area.

[shovelon]

Then the pivot face inserts should fit correctly. I don't see what might be wrong.

Maybe you just have to have your way with it, and teach it who's boss.

Terry

[Colin]

when I replace the swing arm on my 4000se or Oz's, I use the rear Q/R (with no wheel) to compress the wheel end  which spreads the pivot end slightly and then I slide the swing arm on, making sure evrything is well greased and I don't nip or twist the "X" O-Ring Seals.
Yes it is a tight fit, but shouldn't feell like you're going to bust anything.
Are the pivot face inserts bedding fully into the frame?
I've never removed them on any of my bikes.

Col.

[shovelon]

when I replace the swing arm on my 4000se or Oz's, I use the rear Q/R (with no wheel) to compress the wheel end  which spreads the pivot end slightly and then I slide the swing arm on,

Col.

Ok, now that is too easy.

Terry