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Author Topic: Hydraulic RIM brakes  (Read 5912 times)

IMO

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2009, 11:13:24 am »
STOP SHOUTING



People are sleeping.


For Sale  full set HS33 in silver , with 1 set new pads . Evo model with booster , enough hosing for 130mm FF with risers
The downside of every climb is in the upside

orange

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #16 on: June 22, 2009, 11:28:25 am »
wanna stick that in 'for sale' section?
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'06 Surly Karate Monkey 29er
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DugB

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #17 on: June 22, 2009, 12:41:49 pm »
Hey, didn't mean to come off sounding snippy...just wanted to convey my impression of the Maguras...Peace, all! :-)
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bigdee

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #18 on: June 25, 2009, 12:35:13 am »
Got  a set of hs33's a while back now found no problem setting up once i grew two extra arms and the stopping power is awesome, i wouldn't touch anyother sort of braking now, infact i've a set of xt v brakes that i wont use cause of the magura's
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4500_rider

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2009, 04:32:04 am »
Just out of interest becuase I dont find them to be so... whats the difficulty with setting hs33'3 up?
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orange

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #20 on: June 26, 2009, 04:39:47 am »
I find getting them lined up properly the pain as you have about 4 different things to tighten/loosen. The calipers can go in/out by 7mm or so and they can swivel (which requires you to undo 2 separate bolts) etc etc.

Maybe I haven't the knack. It's a job I hate I'll be honest.
'95 855
'91 Diamond Back Topanga (project: 1st MTB)
'06 Surly Karate Monkey 29er
Custom built Edelbikes 29er #1104

4500_rider

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #21 on: June 26, 2009, 06:21:31 am »
Ah ok, fair enough... there is a trick though... if I remember right the recommended spacing between the pad and rim is 2mm (?)... which, if you're in the uk at least, is the exact width of a 2p coin... so... get two 2p coins... put one hand inbetween the spokes, or if your fingers are long enough over the top of the tyre, so that your fore finger can press in on one caliper and your thumb can press in on the other... put a coin between the rim and pad on each side and then "pinch" in with your thumb and fore finger so that the calipers move in and hold the coins fast between the rim and pad... you now have the correct spacing between rim and pad... and you have one hand free to align the pads up and tighten up the bolts... works a breeze for me!
« Last Edit: June 26, 2009, 06:27:42 am by 4500_rider »
K2/Proflex 4500

Scott Scale 20.... finished... 8.02kg!

orange

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2009, 06:31:06 am »
I like 8)
'95 855
'91 Diamond Back Topanga (project: 1st MTB)
'06 Surly Karate Monkey 29er
Custom built Edelbikes 29er #1104

4500_rider

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2009, 09:05:41 am »
Or... and only just thought of this... use a wood work clamp to "pinch" the calipers in... then you have both hands free!
K2/Proflex 4500

Scott Scale 20.... finished... 8.02kg!

orange

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #24 on: June 26, 2009, 09:32:08 am »
even better :D
'95 855
'91 Diamond Back Topanga (project: 1st MTB)
'06 Surly Karate Monkey 29er
Custom built Edelbikes 29er #1104

purple gerbil

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Re: Hydraulic RIM brakes
« Reply #25 on: June 26, 2009, 10:57:16 am »
OR JUST KEEP YOUR V-BRAKES ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
JOKING! JOKING! JOKING! JOKING! JOKING!
THE 1 AND ONLY PURPLE GERBIL...

1991 ALPINESTARS AL-MEGA DX.
1992 PRO-FLEX 862.
1994 PRO-FLEX 954.
1994? GT RTS.
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