J path blues

[Simon]

Sensitive mode is the chamfered end of the hole
pointing back and up (running parallel to the upper
link),
Anti pogo mode is chamfered edge pointing down and forward,

Guess who's got an origional Vector 1 and 2 manual.


Simon.

[Colin]

I thought I'd said in my previous posting that the instructions were direct from the Vector 2 owners manual? This included how to tell which mode you were in...............sigh...........
........I wear my fingers down to bloody nubs typing this stuff in and am I appreciated? Am I?................<grin>

Col.

[kiwi]

2a. To set the fork to Sensitive mode, insert a small Allen wrench into the chamfered hole in the upper fork leg pivot rod. Using the Allen wrench as a lever, rotate the pivot rod so that the small hole in the middle of the pivot rod runs parallel to the upper link with the chamfered end of the hole pointing back and up.

b. To set the fork to anti-pogo mode, insert a small Allen wrench into the chamfered hole..........blah, blah blah.....rotate until the chamfered end of the hole pointing forward and down.
Col.

sheesh he is riight...anyone going to the stoning.?....

[Simon]

I thought I'd said in my previous posting that the instructions were direct from the Vector 2 owners manual? This included how to tell which mode you were in...............sigh...........
........I wear my fingers down to bloody nubs typing this stuff in and am I appreciated? Am I?................<grin>

Col.

Blimey I'd of thought you would of realised by now
everything has to be repeated at least 3 times,
well in my experiance this has always been the case,
posts just get a cursory glance (lol) its the law didn't you know,

Simon.

[Colin]

........And a message came down from the Almighty Girvin......
......"trust in the J-Path my son and all will be well with your travels on the singletrack".

Anyone caught "dissing" the almighty wisdom of the "Girvin" will be stoned as a Heretic!

p.s. I though it was just my wife who had to tell me things 3 times...............?

"chamfered" isn't a real word according to my spellchecker anyway........ha, ha , ha

Col.

[jazclrint]

I know I'm relitively new here but here are some observations about the J-path blues.

I am 6'2" and 220 lbs on a Large 5500 with a carbon Crosslink.  I have a set of Fox Float RL AVA's 7 7/8" long (it'd take a whole 'nother thread to explain what all that means) on the bike.  I designed and had adapters made to fit the Fox's onto my bike.  As heavy as I am I am running 45-50psi in the front shock but after so much time off the bike the technical trails and the cursed J-path (which I have never heard anyone get blasted for talking about) kept sending me over the handle bar.  Now part of it was rusty techique.  The other was that I had the same rebound setting for the front shock as I did the rear which was at 200psi (10 clicks from full hard).  I backed the rebound completely off and set the AVA to 2 and now I have no issues.  So after you set the preload make sure to run as little rebound as possible if you have that option.

I may play with the AVA some more to see if I need it with the current dampening settings.  I really want to send it to Push and have them set it up, almost just for the "HUH?" factor.  When I have the money. [sigh]

[shovelon]

 I designed and had adapters made to fit the Fox's onto my bike.  As heavy as I am I am running 45-50psi in the front shock but after so much time off the bike the technical trails and the cursed J-path (which I have never heard anyone get blasted for talking about) kept sending me over the handle bar.  Now part of it was rusty techique.  The other was that I had the same rebound setting for the front shock as I did the rear which was at 200psi (10 clicks from full hard).  I backed the rebound completely off and set the AVA to 2 and now I have no issues.  So after you set the preload make sure to run as little rebound as possible if you have that option.

I may play with the AVA some more to see if I need it with the current dampening settings.  I really want to send it to Push and have them set it up, almost just for the "HUH?" factor.  When I have the money. [sigh]

I know what you mean when running a slow shock. The carbon vector I have with the soft sponges is wicked fast in compression and rebound. It is almost a luxury, if not for the over softness.

Let us know how the PUSH works.

Terry

[shovelon]

Yes, you can tell which mode you are in by looking at the upper fork leg pivot rod and seeing wether the chamfered hole is upright (sensitive) or forward (anti-pogo).

OK, so I tried it both ways, and like the sensitive mode with more preload in the spring. By shortening the upper link by rotating the shaft inward, I am increasing the rake, and shortening the "J" path.

[jazclrint]

I know what you mean when running a slow shock. The carbon vector I have with the soft sponges is wicked fast in compression and rebound. It is almost a luxury, if not for the over softness.

Let us know how the PUSH works.

Terry

I would say if you want to firm up the ride you want to increase the compression and leave the rebound alone.  But you would have to have a suspension expert rip you shocks apart and play with the bits inside.  Good luck finding someone, muchless affording it.  And it looks like it will be a long time before I will be able to afford the PUsh services.  But I'd love to be the fly on the wall when I tell them that the one shock goes in a Noleen fork.

Oh, and I have completely rebuilt my sportbike forks at one time (and changed the dampening inside them) so I have an understanding of how suspension works, but I was under guidance, so I do not consider myself any kind of expert.

Later,
Rich

[kiwi]

But I'd love to be the fly on the wall when I tell them that the one shock goes in a Noleen fork.

Oh, and I have completely rebuilt my sportbike forks at one time (and changed the dampening inside them) so I have an understanding of how suspension works, but I was under guidance, so I do not consider myself any kind of expert.

Later,
Rich

tell me more
1) sport bike?
2)How would the set up of the shock be different for the crosslink.It would be similar to a linkage rear wouldnt it except the ratio would be quite low...yes?
No dissing the J path,although i had a massive unexpected OTB once,off balance leaning too far forward,big bump....

[jazclrint]

tell me more
1) sport bike?
2)How would the set up of the shock be different for the crosslink.It would be similar to a linkage rear wouldnt it except the ratio would be quite low...yes?
No dissing the J path,although i had a massive unexpected OTB once,off balance leaning too far forward,big bump....

Ah haha.  you've asked for it now.

1.  Yes an 1991 Honda VFR750F.  I have a lot of little mods but by far the most effort is into the suspension, because that is where the real speed comes from.  I do have a Pipe/Jet Kit/High flow air filter on as well.  With over 30k miles on it I got peaks of 95.4 hp and 50.5 ft-lb of torque on the Dyno.  Any way, the forks needed to be redone.  I had a moron for a mechanic that put progreesive springs in sport bike forks.  So I needed new springs, and some internal bits that had worn out.  I also new that I wanted some adjustablitity so I got CBR600F3 fork internals that bolt right in and provide preload and rebound adjustability.  I also knew the real trick was to redo the dampening rates, and that would make the biggest difference, although with my wieght the right springs would be quite noticable.  I called Traxxion Dynamics (a very reputable motorcycle sus company here in the states) and ordered springs, their recommended fork oil weight, and a Penske 4 way adjustable rear shock (of course with spring rates and dampenning set to my and the bikes weight and rding style, mmmm).  So, I had a comtact who used to work for this company and he told me what shims to buy and how many of each to put for the compression and rebound sides of the piston in the cartridge forks I have.  So I took aout the stock internals out of my VFR's fork legs and then reshimmed the CBR's fork internals.  Now I should have gotten the Traxxion Axxion valves but they won't sell them to anyone, because to many people installed them wrong, so my contact sent me some shims that basically acted like a shim preload and gives the forks that same feel with the stock valves as the Axxion valves upto and just over the 90% pushed range as per an AMA pro rider.  I figured his 90% was probablly my 115% (atleast) and more than fine for a street rider like me.  So th rebuilt and dialed in forks pronptly saved my behind when at a VFR ralley a few days later when I was in a group going at a clip not reccomended by the local fuzz [cough] and the nice smooth raod ended and a rough one stated without warning.  The front wheel just stuck to the road and saved me from saying hi to the trees.  And with the Penske in the back, not only do I have a lot of buttons to play with but I gained about 10-20% in cornering speed.
Its funny because I got into suspension when I got my '98 2000, and then carried my knowledge to motorcycles, and learned more, and am now appling that back to my 5500.  Funny how things come full circle.

2.  The rear swingarm is linear, and I don't know enough to figure out the linkage thing but I don't think it is completely linear.  But, your right other than lighter forces it shouldn't really be that different than anything else they that is out there.  But really, I bet they have never gotten a shock going in a Noleen or Girvin fork before.  It's just so odd ball that it's bound to make them scratch their head for a minute.  But to figure out how to properly set the dampening they do need to know how it the linkgae affectes the shock.  They'll need to back way off on the rebound, and some on the compression.

I was going over the bars it seemed like every other mile until I sat and thought about my settings.  I hope this was interesting.
Rich

[kiwi]

very interestin to me!.I used to ride motorbikes(I think there is a lot of crossover actually,i bet a higher proportion of mountain bikers(not sure about roadies) are motorcyclists.My last few bikes were completely different,A Ductai 900(suspension didnt move until 140 km hr was reached),BMW K100RS,(the opposite),but the suspension and shaft drive gave incredible traction ,if not the best control,and last bike was a Yamaha FZ 750,had very well sorted suspension when i bought it,it had been a production race bike in an earlier life.I rode a VFR 750  a few times after that,very capable feeling bike.I am actually considering another motorbike,cos my commute to work is a bit expensive in my other"project/hobby" a bmw 535.Is your VF a carb or FI model?.I tend to be a "momentum type rider,dont use the brakes or throttle very hard ,seem to carry more corner speed than most ,A Vf is a model I am considering,also a BMW twin.I dont think a GS but maybe an S or ST
Paul
(maybe we should start another thread!)

[jazclrint]

My VFR is carbed.  You don't get FI until the '98 Honda VFR and Suzuki GSX-R750 (well the RC45 as well, but those were $25k limited production bikes).  The torque, wieght, and setup of the VFR work better with momentum riders than the point and shoot types.  But, when you can get the rear end to slide around it is lots of fun.  The VFRs have a big rep for being a do everything well bike.  I have always used mine as my main vehicle until I got home to the winters of Maine.  But in the summer my Jeep gets little use.  I have used for everything but a track day.  2up touring, 2up hauling ass, commuting, riding across the country, ect.  But there are guys who use them on the track and surprise the crap out of everyone.  I love my VFR, can you tell.  I have a VF500F Interceptor that I am turning into a track bike to.
Later.