Magura HS22

[lewism3]

Hi poeple

Just need your thoughts and ideas on my Magura HS22 brake set up.

My rear brakes do provide very much stopping power. I have emailed Martin @ Magura Germany and he has indicated that they will probably require bleeding and to download the manual on their website. Thats fine but I notice that my brake blocks are approx 5mm from the rim instead of the suggested 2mm.

Is it best to bleed the brakes anyway instead of just adjustment. If so, is it a tricky job to do myself considering that I haven't done this job before, or best left to my LBS. Are there any problems I should be careful of?

Lewis  


Sorry that first line should say DO NOT provide very much stopping power. (Can't get the staff!!!)

[kiwi]

i would say they require bleeding and adjustment and maybe new "pads"

[Tel]

Hi Lewis.
              Stick with the maguras, the feel of them is first class, and the power when they are working as they should is brilliant.
The only down side I`ve found is there a bit rim hungry. I allways use green wet weather pads and they stop in any conditions.
But after 8 years I`m in the same boat as you and need to bleed, so could you tell me where to download the bleeding manual( I`m not getting touchy just dont know what else to call it)
Cheers, Tel.

[lewism3]

Hi Tel

Sorry it's a bit late getting back to you, in Scotland at the mo on my hols.

It took me ages to find the downloadable manuals, but here's how. Because the HS22 is virtually the same as th HS11, you can use that manual.

Magura.com
Click on Products
Then rim brakes 2006
Then HS11
You will then see a page for the HS11 and on there is the link to downloading manuals.

Think you will need Adobe reader if you haven't got it. Also downloadable at www.adobe.com

Hope this helps, and let me know how you get on.

Lewis

[Colin]

Hi,
I've got Magura rim brakes on my XP-X (856) and 5500 and so thought I'd offer my 2p (2c) worth.....

DON'T BLEED until you've checked these things!

If the brake pads are 5mm away from the rim then that's not a problem as long as the pads touch the rim when the brake is applied and you get braking, but you're obviously not, so.....

I think there's only one of three reasons:
A) The pads are a bit worn and you need to take up the slack by adjusting the levers.

B) The pads are very worn (if the grooves in them have disappeared then they're worn out)

C) the calipers are not set up correctly for the forks/frame and width of rims and so are too far from the rims.

I don't think this issue would be caused by needing to be bled, the pads can only move so far back in the caliper pistons and then they bottom out. If the system needed bleeding, It would be indicated by moving the brake lever and no immediate movement in the pad. Magura brake oil does not absorb water like car/motorbike brake fluid and so you don't get "frothing" or "sponginess" etc. The only reason to need to bleed (IMHO) is if you've got a dodgy installation or a leak. (I've never needed to bleed mine in 8 years....<smug grin>).

if A) The method depends on the model of levers but on the HS-22 is probably an Allen key on the inside (away from H/bars) of the levers and needs to be screwed in a bit to take up the slack. On the later HS-33's it's sometimes a big red knob that snaps off in crashes, or the latest one's have a recessed wheel that does the same job.

if B) replace the pads and see if that solves it, (just pull them out and click new ones in!). Remember to wind the wear adjusters back out before replacing the pads!
(I've used Black pads on my alloy rims for 8 years and haven't worn the rims out! I need to replace the pads about annually. I've also tried red pads and they're pretty good as well.

If C) Then you need to realign the brake calipers (following the manual instructions, excellent German Magura site for info) This will mean disassembling the brake calipers (but not any hydraulic stuff) and then re-assembling re-positioning the little "L" shaped alloy "elbows" that push against the forks/stays to position the pads the correct distance from the rim. It's a bit fiddly but once done for your frame/fork/wheel combo, it should NEVER need doing again. I only had to do this when I tried a wider rim wheel on the bike for a few weeks.

Any Q's give me a shout.

Col

[lewism3]

Thanks Colin

Will try out the options when I get back home. Notice you are from the concrete jungle (M. Keynes), I'm from the armpit of Buckinghamshire (Aylesbury). Have to go out and have a blast sometime.

Lewis

[Colin]

Hi Lewis,

I ride (nearly) every Thursday evening during the summer, starting in Harlington village Car Park at 7pm.
(North of Luton, M1 J12)

Come along if you fancy a 2hr blast with a small group of riders, nothing too dangerous, mostly XC with a bit of fun stuff in the Sundon Chalk Pits sometimes.
We'll probably continue until the clocks go back.

Col.