Threadlock for Proflexes

[orange]

Can anybody recommend 2 things please:

1 - which bolts need threadlock using on your average Proflex and also Vector/Crosslink forks? E.g. swingarm pivot etc. I don't want to use it on bolts that shouldn't have it obviously!

2 - which product is best and where can I source it in the UK?

Thanks

[Matno]

None of them "need" threadlock. In fact, I've never used any type of threadlock on any bike part, although some parts (e.g. brake bosses) come with something on them that looks like it might be a locking compound. Not a very strong one though, because they still come out rather easily when you want them to.

Personally, I put grease on a some of my bolts, but not very many. In fact, the only time I think threads need it is if they squeak. Other than that, I don't think you need to put ANYTHING on them. I don't know about the X-link fork parts, but the main swingarm bolt on my EVO frames does not have anything on it. The pivot itself is greased on the bearing surfaces though (see "files" section for OP's 15 minute "Jiffy Lube").

The bottom line is that nothing is going to fall apart if you don't put threadlock on your bolts. It might give you peace of mind, but it's definitely not necessary if you tighten your bolts to the correct torque.

[Simon]

I agree I don't usually use loctite's as a rule but they are often recommended,
if you really want to use some then use loctite 242
medium strength,avoid 270 and others of high strength.

Simon.

[orange]

Thanks. My main concern I guess were my Vectors as if I do them up too tight the forks don't work, too loose and the screws work loose... I guess I'll try the 270.

[Simon]

Hmmmmmm
any tightening or over tightening of any linkage bolts
on a Vector fork should make no difference to the
forks performance,
the pivot bearings bottom out when fully tightened
and the bushes rotate around them,
the only thing I can think of is the seals either side
being compressed (as they should) giving a feeling
of excessive stiction,running the pivot bearings loose
with take the pressure of the seals and remove the
stiction but as you've experienced the bolts come loose and you run the risk of the bearings rotating and
worse popping out.

Simon.

P.s I had this many years ago and got over this by
slightly reducing the seal widths but allowing enough
pressure to ensure they still sealed.

[orange]

I must admit I am using seals, on the very top linkage only at least, of cut-down hosepipe which happens to fit very well! Perhaps they need to be thinner! Thanks for your advice.

[Carbonman1]

I don't use threadlock on the x-links because it can cause thread stripping problems if it builds up too much.   The proper torque works like a charm.  I just check them from time to time if I need peace of mind.  Dressing down the seals that are too thick is something I do to all the x-links--they vary quite a bit.   I find that a big point of stiction on those forks is in the upper shock bolt area.  The ULM is abit too wide for the shock bushing spacing.  When torqued,  it distorts the alignment of the upper links.  To test yours,  bounce the fork simulating small bumps.   Next loosen the upper shock bolt and bounce.  If it frees up the travel,  use a feeler guage to determine how much of a shim washer you need to make up the difference and apply.  My local machine shop had many to choose from.  I found this change to really improve small bump compliance.  Use the old seals dressed down if you still have them.  If they are the right thickness they slip and slide quite well.

[Colin]

I've been after some threadlock ever since I serviced my Vector II's and found the originally fitted bolts had Blue Threadlock on them.
Since then I've had repeated problems with the Pivot bolts coming loose and have repeatedly just saved myself from disaster by noticing them coming loose.

That was, until today! I've just been out and done a quick lunchtime blast and found I've lost one of the ULM Pivot bolts! B0ll0X!!

Ahah! I'm glad I did this post! I've just remembered I've got a "Pivot Axle Upper Arm Replacement Kit, Part No. 14676"  with some spare M6 Bolts - Whoo Hoo!

Sorted.

Now where do I buy some damn Threadlock!

Good Post CarbonMan, I'll check all that out!

Col.

[Carbonman1]

Hey Colin,  threadlock is put out by the permatex co. here in the States and is readily available at any auto parts store (here).  I can't imagine that it or a similar product wouldn't be avilable to U.K. auto mechanics.  If you still can't find some,  I have used cyano-acetate glue in its place.  Not as good but it does work.   Good hunting.

[Simon]

You can get threadlocker at most motor factors,

here's a link to someone I found selling loctite 242,
http://www.1shop2.com/ace_auto/Loctite-242-Threadlocker--24240-.html

I don't buy the stuff as I get most of the Loctite range through work  

if you get really stuck I'm sure I could lay my hands on a small bottle for you.

Simon.

[will]

I bought a "lipstick tube" of Loctite Blue (242?).

So far it has worked as good lubricant

It never seems to dry and hold the screws.