Author Topic: Rear shock (Read 3923 times)

Doublea · « **on:** May 01, 2003, 05:42:17 am »

Hey guys,

This is my first posting. I love this site. So I ride a k2 5000, and I toasted the rear smartshock. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to replace it with. I want a good xc rear shock possibly with a lockout. I would love some suggestions.

Thanks [smiley=beer.gif]

Matno · « **Reply #1 on:** May 01, 2003, 09:27:13 pm »

Risse Genesis
Risse Astro 5
Stratos Helix Pro
Stratos Helix Expert
Fox Vanilla RC (large frame only, minor mod required)
Rockshox Deluxe (not a current shock, not that great)
Rockshox Sid (someone just posted pics of this - it's the first one I've seen and it looks like a scary frame mod)

I blew my Smartshock after just 3 months of riding, and I sold the one from my spare bike before it had a chance to die! Now I've got the Astro 5 and the Helix Pro - both on 5000's. They are both great shocks. The Astro 5 is much lighter, but the Helix Pro rides a little smoother and has a lockout. (You can even get it with a remote lockout, but I couldn't figure out a way to make that fit with this frame).

Good luck! You'll need an eye to eye length of close to 8". Stock length on the Smartshock is actually 8.25" (or 210mm). Many people run 7 7/8" (especially with the Fox). That's how long my Stratos is, and it doesn't seem to effect handling at all. Others run 8.5" as well. With the Stratos, you need to make sure it has a "Proflex tail" to fit in between the plates of your frame.

numbnuts · « **Reply #2 on:** May 02, 2003, 02:09:01 am »

Matno,

do you use the lockout much? I doubt I would use it except maybe for long smooth climbs ie road. I have seen a lot of people post that they never use lockout even when they have the option [front and rear].

If it is for XC what about a air shock, I wouldn't get one because I'm heavy and ride/drop hard, but it would make things lighter.

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #3 on:** May 02, 2003, 04:08:47 am »

i use my lockout on the psylo sl regular as clockwork

when level, easy climbs or downhill i leave the setting soft to mid depending, as soon as i'm on a climb or street, i reach down, crank it clockwise and lock the fork - saves a tremendous amount of bouncing around in the front. big bouncy stuff, i stretch it out to 5" of travel, lift the front end and set it on soft - not plush on the small stuff but fine for an old xc rider.

the rear progressive 5th element i have tweaked to not bob at much any time and still get 6+" of travel - but i'd lock that too if i had a shock that flexed when i didn't want the bike to.

OP

Mike_Farris · « **Reply #4 on:** May 02, 2003, 04:14:33 am »

Quote

Rockshox Sid (someone just posted pics of this - it's the first one I've seen and it looks like a scary frame mod)

Matno,

I'm not sure I follow... the guy who posted it said that it essentially bolted right up. And those who have done Fox shocks have had to file away bits of the mount on the swingarm in order to get the shock to clear. I'm not doubting your experience, but just looking for a bit of clarification...

Matno · « **Reply #5 on:** May 02, 2003, 05:34:18 am »

Mike,

A bit of clarification. On the 4000/5000 frames (carbon swingarm), to mount the fox shock, all you have to do is gently spread the frame plates. This is to allow the shaft enough clearance at the top end. No modification of the swingarm is necessary. Bushings might also have to be filed down to fit. Some people with newer frames (Monkey series w/aluminum swingarms) have had to make minor modifications to the swingarm mounts for shock clearance of some shocks. (Not the Fox though). I believe that was actually for Stratos shocks, possibly without the Proflex tail and mounted "backwards" from the way mine fits, if memory serves.

As for the Rockshox Sid, the guy did SAY it bolted right up, but did you look at the picture? There was hardly ANYTHING left of the part that's just forward of the shock bolt. Apparently he hasn't had any problems with it in 6 months, but I would never remove that much material from my frame.

Mike_Farris · « **Reply #6 on:** May 02, 2003, 07:41:37 am »

Matno,

Got it. I was looking at the mount around the swingarm and not at the mount into the frame. I totally see what you mean... looks like there's a bunch of material removed. If the frame didn't have those holes on either side of the bolt, it wouldn't be a problem at all. But I don't think I would ride it the way it is right now.

Thanks for the input. I don't own an EVO, but that could change in the future. Always good to keep an eye on what's being done with other bikes, in case there's something you can use later on.... [smiley=evil.gif]

proflexGB · « **Reply #7 on:** May 02, 2003, 09:07:54 am »

Matno, If you had that to say you could have said it to me.

On the proflex the shock is not a stressed member, i.e. it does not have any lateral forces applied to it.
The top mount is only pushed and pulled.

The small change to the mount will not affect the structure in the slightest, it is below the mounting eye and the hits are going upward.

I have ridden this frame very hard for over 6 months with no troubles at all, The mod was well worth the gains in weight & performance and has not affected the strength one bit.

Matno · « **Reply #8 on:** May 02, 2003, 11:17:29 am »

I DID say it to you. That's what forums are for... ;)Really though, no offense intended. I was just pointing out that I wouldn't make that serious of a modification to my frame. I'm just a chicken when it comes to frame mods. It took me a long time to decide that I was going to drill out my cable stops!

I'm no engineer, but I can say that there are significant forces on that shock mount other than straight up and down. Side loading with a single pivot swingarm like that is probably the biggest source of wear and tear on the shock itself - particularly with the carbon swingarms, which tend to have quite a bit of flex to them. However, I think it's probably more than strong enough to handle normal riding. It still looks like it's got more support than the swingarm end of the shock.

proflexGB · « **Reply #9 on:** May 03, 2003, 12:48:27 am »

Hehe, cheers Matno m8ty

No probs, ok fair enough, it is a sensitive subject (I wasn't sure if I should do it) so you have raised a good point, but there havn't been any problems and I do throw it around quite a bit! there is still plenty of metal there.

I would still reccomend it to anybody and will be doing something similar to my carbon frame when I get it.

Just from earlier...

The stock NR2 shock is 200mm eye to eye at full extension. I don't know how far it compresses tho.

The SID is 195 at full extension and 145 at full compression, which I measured as giving me 4.5 inches of travel at the rear axle.

Good to see you take things the right way, please let me know if there is any more info you need, sorry if I got out of line. cheers

keen · « **Reply #10 on:** May 03, 2003, 03:36:44 am »

I used to do a fair bit of modifications to my bikes when I was younger. Know I probably over think any new mods. When it came to a rear shock for my 01' Disco Monkey I installed a Fox Float Talas air shock . It went in w/ some minor mods- small swingarm notch/ bushings cut down. I noticed @ full travel compression the shock body would come in contact w/ the upper frame mount. I could have notched the frame and welded in a couple of reinforcement plates but... I felt it wasn't a worth while mod. The linear air shock wasn't suited for such a rising rate single pivot rear. I weigh 200# and could bottom the shock too easily. I decided to run a Stratos Helix Pro. Just bolt in and ride - no mods. questionable or not.

Matno · « **Reply #11 on:** May 03, 2003, 09:33:11 am »

Quote

Matno,

do you use the lockout much? I doubt I would use it except maybe for long smooth climbs ie road. I have seen a lot of people post that they never use lockout even when they have the option [front and rear].

Sorry, I don't think I addressed this question before. Yes, I use the lockout. But not very much. Like OP, I use it on the road, but I almost never use it for climbs. Mostly because once I'm climbing, I'm on the trail, and I prefer to have the shock absorption if the going is even remotely rough. (Keep in mind that OP has Bontrager Revolt semi slick tires on his bike. Just based on that, I'm guess that his climbs are somewhat smoother than mine! Not that there's anything wrong with those tires - I even have a pair - but they won't climb most of my trails...)

For getting to the trail though, the lockout can be nice. It also lets me know how bad my pedal stroke sometimes is (when you lock out the rear and suddenly realize that you're still bouncing, you know something's wrong with your "perfectly round" pedal stroke!

If I were buying a new shock, I probably wouldn't spring the extra $100 for the lockout, but since I got my shock for $125, I didn't complain...

Did I mention that I LOVE my Helix Pro? The travel is just SMOOTH...

RoentgenRanger · « **Reply #12 on:** May 05, 2003, 06:28:02 am »

What about plopping a 200mm Vanilla RL on the back?? How much would that affect the geometry?
I currently have a 5" Z-1 on the front.

Doublea · « **Reply #13 on:** May 05, 2003, 06:52:23 am »

Thanks for all of the replies. I'm thinking about either running a helix pro or a fox vanilla RL. Which of those would you guys prefer. Also I can get a fox vanilla RL that measures 7 7/8 eye to eye on ebay for like $100 dollars. What mods would I have to make to my frame to fit this? Thanks for all of the replies!

numbnuts · « **Reply #14 on:** May 06, 2003, 03:22:36 am »

Fox van r should fit ok. 200mm 7 7/8 will slacken head angle a little, I like it like that. It is not a major change. I bought a used van r on ebay and the only problem was that the bushings had to be modified by grinding them down, or buy new ones which is not difficult or expensive.

Remember the spring is important when hunting on ebay, try and buy a shock with a spring that suits your wt and riding style, it won't be a bargain if you have to buy a new spring also

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Author Topic: Rear shock (Read 3923 times)