Author Topic: Changing cables - what about the .... (Read 5538 times)

Frankd3000 · « **on:** September 27, 2005, 01:08:03 pm »

........ swing arm on my 3000? [smiley=redface.gif]

I'm changing all my cables and while everything else is pretty straight-forward i'm not sure about the rear derailleur. Is there a tube that runs inside the s/arm to make it easy, or will this be a complicated, time-robbing, curse-pronouncing task?

Help?!?! I'm hoping to do this tomorrow after work.

All these cables and i'm STILL thinking about getting those stupidly over-priced Nokon cables next year ANYWAYS... just because they're lighter and look cool.

Oh, should be about 28.5-ish pounds when I roll out the driveway next time.

Going racing next year.

Special THANKS to airman!!!!!! Got a GREAT hook-up with my new XT 8-speed shifters and more tires than I know what to do with. Thanks Derek! It was awesome meeting you and I hope we can get together and RIDE!!!!! I wanna see you whoop my butt! [smiley=laughing.gif]

Matno · « **Reply #1 on:** September 27, 2005, 01:16:24 pm »

It depends. There is a sleeve in there, but it's mighty easy to knock it loose. Therefore, I recommend removing the old cable VERY carefully. If by chance you do knock that thing loose, you can "find" it again using any small thin pointed object (like a skinny nail) by tilting your frame in various directions, but it's not easy. Once you get your new cable in there though, it should slide right on through. Just don't go shoving the new one in without first making sure that 1) the end is NOT frayed at all, and 2) you can actually SEE it going into that sleeve!

Good luck!

PS
I think the Nokon cables are actually HEAVIER, plus, the performance improvement is said to be minimal. Certainly not noticeably better than just buying new generic cables every 6-12 months (and about the same price over the life of the bike...) Of course, I'm getting this second hand, but that seems to be a consensus among those I know of...

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 27, 2005, 02:08:41 pm »

PHEW! Thanks Matt! I'll be sure to use a spoke in the ends with some tape to be sure that the tube isn't dislodged from it's ends.

Great tip buddy!!

Nokon - yeah, I know. The one thing I really don't like is that it's exposed aluminum tubes.... scratch the paint and carbon. Not too thrilled about that. Anyways, with it's expense I probably won't buy the stuff. It would cost me about $300 Canadian to do my whole bike.

Uuuum, NO! Money better spent elsewhere.

New cables every 6-12 months? Oh, yeah, I do that.

Matno · « **Reply #3 on:** September 27, 2005, 03:46:07 pm »

Why the

?

I consider it all in good fun...

kiwi · « **Reply #4 on:** September 27, 2005, 08:14:25 pm »

frank ditch the sleeve and the stops and run the housing straight through,you will get better cable life.no ghost shifting ,and as long as you have a generous curve going into the rear mech ou should have no problems

Matno · « **Reply #5 on:** September 28, 2005, 02:55:37 am »

I have housing that goes almost all the way to the rear mech. (And I have full length going to the rear disc brake). However, I didn't mess with the carbon part. Didn't want to take a chance of loosing the connection. Full length housing is a great idea, but unless you have really straight housing (it usually comes rolled, but straightens out pretty well if you let it) feeding it through could be a pain. On the other hand, that seems to be one place where dirt doesn't really get into my housing. I use some ferrules (housing end caps) that are made of plastic and are supposed to be "sealed". Can't remember the brand though. Ghost shifting shouldn't be a problem as long as you have enough cable between the frame and swingarm.

Simon · « **Reply #6 on:** September 28, 2005, 06:27:40 am »

I had the sleeve running through the s/arm break,
don't know why but it made an annoying rattle,
took ages to track down,when I found it I replaced it using a stripped out an old cable inner and bonded that in instead,thinner and more flexable than the standard ridgid plastic sleeve,
now though I'd run a complete inner and outer cable through the s/arm,working a treat on 856 project bike,
Goretex cables are suppose to be fully sealed and have a great reputation over here in the muddy UK,
Simon.

will · « **Reply #7 on:** September 28, 2005, 06:46:26 am »

Gotta agree with Kiwi... I ran the whole housing through the swingarm on 856 #1. It looks good, gets it away from my shoes, and stays cleaner.

On 856 #2 I liked the gold cable nipples so much, I left them on. Bad deal. Every housing entry and exit creates a friction point and a crud entry.

Results: the full housing gear shift cable works WAY BETTER. And get this; the better shifting derailleur of the two an ancient SRAM 3.0 with full cable housing. The ghost shifting derailleur is an XT with the "split" housing!

Yeah, yeah, I know... Shimano's "Better" ain't as good as SRAM's "antique." Actually, I'm convinced it's the cable housing. [smiley=groucho.gif]

Will be converting to a full length housing on #2 asap.

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 28, 2005, 11:09:54 am »

WOW! A resounding answer there!

Okay, I gotta take a minute to totally screw up the thread, but it's related.... I was trying to run my new cables tonight and ran into a problem - specifically with the rear brake and rear derailleur cables. The mounts on the downtube have special little adaptors to go from housed to open cable. There's one towards the top, and one towards the bottom. The stupid XTR cable set I am replacing apparently wasn't worth a crap, because some dirt got in between the adaptor and cable ferrule. Long story short I have to do some serious screwing around, but there might be hope.

I think I have th eopportunity to run full-housed rear brake AND rear derailleur cables. With what you guys have mentioned above this suddeenly seems very possible.

What I need to know is if anything in the following pics looks outta place or otherwise possibly problematic.

What do you guys think? I'm not sure if the slack in the housing would be a problem. ALSO, because the housing isn't firmly secured in the mounts it may want to slide around. I think it will be a necessity to remedy this. If the cable is able to slide around too much (sliding through, in and out) it might be a problem with.

Tell me what you think guys. No riding on Friday now as this sets me back 2 days. However, the bright side is that tomorrow night i'm picking up a brand new XT front derailleur for CHEAP to finally realize a long-time dream of a COMPLETE XT drivetrain. [smiley=nod.gif] Okay, except the cranks, but the cassette IS an XTR, so that makes up for it. [smiley=laughing.gif]

Very undecided on running the rear derailleur with full housing - it would be nice. What needs to be done to the s/arm to do this? Is the ANY cutting involved? I haven't taken the cable out yet, so I have noooooooo idea what's in there other than "the tube". :o (sounds kinda scary, really) Should I back all this up with one of those Avid Roll-a-ma-jig things for the extra $20? Since i'm doing all this anyways. [smiley=blankstare.gif]

As always - PATIA! ;D

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 28, 2005, 11:12:48 am »

WOW! A resounding answer there!

Okay, I gotta take a minute to totally screw up the thread, but it's related.... I was trying to run my new cables tonight and ran into a problem - specifically with the rear brake and rear derailleur cables. The mounts on the downtube have special little adaptors to go from housed to open cable. There's one towards the top, and one towards the bottom. The stupid XTR cable set I am replacing apparently wasn't worth a crap, because some dirt got in between the adaptor and cable ferrule. Long story short I have to do some serious screwing around, but there might be hope.

I think I have th eopportunity to run full-housed rear brake AND rear derailleur cables. With what you guys have mentioned above this suddeenly seems very possible.

What I need to know is if anything in the following pics looks outta place or otherwise possibly problematic.

What do you guys think? I'm not sure if the slack in the housing would be a problem. ALSO, because the housing isn't firmly secured in the mounts it may want to slide around. I think it will be a necessity to remedy this. If the cable is able to slide around too much (sliding through, in and out) it might be a problem with.

Tell me what you think guys. No riding on Friday now as this sets me back 2 days. However, the bright side is that tomorrow night i'm picking up a brand new XT front derailleur for CHEAP to finally realize a long-time dream of a COMPLETE XT drivetrain. [smiley=nod.gif] Okay, except the cranks, but the cassette IS an XTR, so that makes up for it. [smiley=laughing.gif]

Very undecided on running the rear derailleur with full housing - it would be nice. What needs to be done to the s/arm to do this? Is the ANY cutting involved? I haven't taken the cable out yet, so I have noooooooo idea what's in there other than "the tube".

(sounds kinda scary, really) Should I back all this up with one of those Avid Roll-a-ma-jig things for the extra $20? Since i'm doing all this anyways. [smiley=blankstare.gif]

As always - PATIA!

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 28, 2005, 11:15:53 am »

Yeah yeah yeah, I KNOW!!!!! Go ahead and make fun of my little box's with that infamous little red X. [smiley=turtle.gif]

Pics are on the SECOND page of my Gallery here.

How's that for fun, Matt?

Matno · « **Reply #11 on:** September 28, 2005, 01:26:50 pm »

Looks pretty darn good if you ask me! I'll admit I've had problems with my cable housing sliding in my drilled out cable stops. I just superglued small zip ties on either end to hold them in place, but it's not a perfect solution (e.g. right now my rear shifter cable is in need of regluing as the zip ties pulled loose while changing the rear shock - my own fault for letting the swingarm drop).

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 29, 2005, 10:51:56 am »

Well, you might have an idea there. A zip tie on either end of the cable mount would keep it in place. Might not look the best, but it'll work..... for now.

Okay, so can anyone tell me what's involved in removing the tube inside the rear s/arm? That's the deciding factor right there, for me. If I can't put it back to stock then it ain't gonna happen.

PATIA!

kiwi · « **Reply #13 on:** September 29, 2005, 10:04:45 pm »

Once i got rid of the cable stops i think the cable sits in the guides quite nicely.Both cable stops come of the swingarm and the outer flys through....if you are worried use the old cable to pull the new cable through.....dont tie the cable outer to the swingarm,let it slide freely and if you can use goretex or similar the shifting is fantastic for years....I was sorry to lose those neat golden cable stops too....

Frankd3000 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 30, 2005, 09:06:16 am »

Quote

Once i got rid of the cable stops i think the cable sits in the guides quite nicely.Both cable stops come of the swingarm and the outer flys through....if you are worried use the old cable to pull the new cable through.....dont tie the cable outer to the swingarm,let it slide freely and if you can use goretex or similar the shifting is fantastic for years....I was sorry to lose those neat golden cable stops too....

HUH?! I have a carbon-wraped aluminum s/arm on my 3000, not the all-aluminum one. The cable goes inside/through the s/arm. There's now cable stop, per se.

Are we talking about the same thing here?

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Author Topic: Changing cables - what about the .... (Read 5538 times)

will