Project Frankenstein'd 3000 officially underway!

[jazclrint]

Hey,
Great stuff, I can't wait to hear more.  What length bolts were you useing for the middle holes?  And what is the trhead size?  I took apart my fork today when I got my first Fox Float RL AVA.  I might have been able to get away with a simple MULA 2 design, but because I have the lock out lever, it makes things a little more complicated. The air valve placement is problematic enough, but the lock out lever makes things a real PITA.  I think a MULA 1 design is going to be the best for me.  1) It should put the lock out lever where I can get to it, and 2) it simply won't fit any other way.  Actually the shock body is too big.  This reall is not the shock to go with.  Especially with the lock out lever.  But I think I have a way, so I'll see.  Later and thanks for the updates!

[Simon]

Hey, Simon, this version stuff is neat, huh? [smiley=laughing.gif]

[smiley=laughing.gif] yes its great fun,
Your pic's explain things so much better I'm very impressed,I'm sure its going to ride great,you'll get a great deal of satisfaction from all the effort you've put in,
how about a pic of the troublesome air valve location I'd like to see a pic of that,
looking forward to a ride report [smiley=nod.gif]
Simon.

[Frankd3000]

Somewhat sadly, my ride report comes prematurely. It will rain tomorrow.

The lower shock bushing was made today. In the hands of an expert lather operator, the piece was turned from solid brass stock. It works very nicely.

So, I rushed home, did some tinkering (read my disc brake thread if you're interested) and got it all together.

Did some riding in my immediate area for about 1/2 hour. How does it work? GREAT!!!!! I'm simply beside myself with the results. Very invaluable info learned!

So, what did I learn? I need to do a little more snooping with a few details, but that will come with time. I can't decide on a clear winner, between the two MULA versions, as they both have some considerable pros and cons (some of which Jaz commented on above).

What I can tell you is that I wish I did this years ago. The front of the bike is so VERY much more re-active to.... everything. I notice that my pedalling is nowhere near as smooth as it was years ago, too (bouncing front end with pedal strokes). I also noticed I need a proper shock pump. [smiley=disbelief.gif] That poor old tire pump doesn't know what's going on anymore. [smiley=laughing.gif]

I'm going to do some revising between the two MULA's and see how things go.

Jaz - all the CrossLink bolts are M6, with varying lengths. My intentions with the MULA 1 was to use the middle holes in conjunction with the two upper link bolts. You would replace the two existing upper link bolts with two longer ones, then use a nut inside the recess to secure everything together. It would make for a very secure connection - no flexing, no breaking. I don't remember off hand what the bolts sizes I used were, but M6 x 35mm long rings a bell. You might need to have to grind a little off the end to make it work. Also, I don't know if you have the same width ULM as I do. Apparently the OEM and AM are different, but I have no info on the ones for the Carbons (figures, huh?). In any case, you'd want to replace the two upper link bolts with longer ones that would almost touch each other if they were screwed in.

Simon - i'll see what I can do with the pics. I'll have to wait for better weather. If not Sunday, then early next week. The air valve sits right inline with the center of the lower link, when viewed from the side, if that helps you to visualize.

So, one step closer to completion. It's really fun to ride, that's for sure.

[kiwi]

frank surely a remote valve would be easy with all the room....a valve monted on a plate with a line going back to the original valve position.

[Frankd3000]

So you've seen the Risse website, too, huh?

I've toyed with that idea as well. One problem - getting a 90* fitting on. There's no room to "spin" one on and install it. With the stock configuration the end of the valve cap is about 2mm away from the lower linkage.

[smiley=blankstare.gif] [smiley=disbelief.gif] [smiley=depressed.gif] [smiley=turtle.gif] (that meets todays Smiley quota)

[kiwi]

i have a risse terminator on my 756 and after the first few attempts at setting the air pressure i contemplated a remote valve with in line pressure gauge and bleed system.....my initial enquiry at an air valve place near work threw up an obstacle in that the risse demanded pressures around and over 200lbs,and that was a problem for them...soon after i had to stop riding.....so that project got no further.I envisaed that the valve would be emoved altogether and that 2-3 mm nylon type line run to a valve that you could incorparate into the MULAwAV(machined upper link adapter with air valve )

[jazclrint]

Oooohhhhh!    Do you think I could do the same thing on my fox?

[shovelon]

OK, I get it now. I thought MULA had something in common with MOOOLAH, as in greenbacks.


Very nice job by the way!
Terry

[Frankd3000]

HAHAHA! If more people had these bikes, Terry, then maybe so.

Sooooooo, obviously I have more to squak about. I'm sure everyone will be happy to hear/read that it's aaaaaall done. Well, at least the rough versions. I'll make pretty one's later in the year if/when these one's don't break.

The rear upgrade was performed today. I quickly realized that I need a new pump. The 25+ year old tire pump is fine for tires and even the front shock's lower pressure requirements, but it's not enough for the rear. Time for the air compressor.

So, aren't you gonna ask? (rubbing hands together) It... works.... GREEEAAAAT! I can't begin to describe, again, what this has already done for my riding. Actually having suspension is great. Okay, i'm exaggerating, but I can actually tune the front and rear for my (light) weight. It's really something else. I need less in the front and just a bit more in the rear, but other than that i'm exstatic!!!

I did a local ride and was dying to do something I never tried before, so I went out and rode in a few local spots that I always wanted to try. The bike performed flawlessly. Predictable steering, great handling and even inspiring. I found myself trying a few things that I didn't dare try before. The Cloud Nine's gobbled up anything I threw at them - as did the rest of the bike. Even railroad tracks and ties (don't do this at home kids!!!)

So, this ends the first of my mods on my 3000. I'm VERY happy with what i've changed on the bike so far (shocks, seat, stem), and the remaining upgrades for this year should prove to be just as important (tires, wheels, Ti bolts, grips).

Guys - THANKS!!!!!!

I promise to get some action pics in my gallery. It's just more fun to look at that way.

[shovelon]

Can't wait to see those pics [smiley=nod.gif].

Terry

[Simon]

Excellent project,
glad everything has worked out and the performance from what you say has exceeded expectaions [smiley=nod.gif]
had a look at your pic's all very impressive,
I bet that front shock shraeder valve position is still a bug bear though,
any plans yet to over come this
looking at it from afar the only solutions I can currently think off are
1. Strengthening the lower link and adding an access hole for the pump.
2. Removing the shraeder valve and sealing the hole with a blanking plug,re-drill the adapter body in a more accessible position and refit the shraeder into the adapter,you'ld have to get advice from canecreak on this,bet it could be done though,

from the pic's a 90 deg fitment won't work,there's not enough clearance to the body to allow a 90 deg adapter to screw in,using a straight extension with a flexy hose, eg inner duel truck tyre valve extension won't work,the bend would be to tight and it will kink.

anyway just throwing in some ideas, sure you'll sort something,
great conversion/conversions though,very impressed [smiley=nod.gif]
Simon.

[Frankd3000]

Yes, YES YES!!!!! (gives Simon a big, fat, wet, juicy kiss!)

Of course!!!!! Why the heck didn't I remember before!!! THANKS Simon!!!!!!!!!!!!

All I need to do is make a short extension, maybe 1/2", and simply re-locate where the valve exits. All I need is a tap and die for a Schraeder valve. I've seen this done before, but I don't remember where. If I use a hex-shaped extension then I can screw it into the shock with a 6-point socket. The C9's current valve can be re-used, only pointing in a more accesable direction - straight down, towards the ground.

Oh great, where the heck am I gonna find that? Hmm, time to do some hunting through the catalogs at work.

Thanks Simon!!!

(rushes into garage to tear it apart ...... again)

[kiwi]

cant you get a LOOOOONNGGG schraeder valve instead [smiley=nod.gif]



[grin]

rushes into garage to pull it apart-again

[/grin]

[Frankd3000]

If you're asking about the front, Kiwi, then no. The whole problem is that the lower link is right in the way. Take another look at the front shot of the front complete, and then the profile shot. See where the valve is? It needs to be re-directed.

So, update # 1,367,356. [smiley=laughing.gif]

I (think I) found the tap. It's a close match for a 5/16-32 UNEF. I will hopefully have one for this weekend. Drill size is 9/23". With this I will be able to put that thing wherever I want. I'll try a dummy-piece first to be sure. Then if it works i'll go ahead and get the matching die and make my 90* adaptor.

The nice thing is that I can re-locate that valve anywhere in the "big end" of the shock(s) I need, and i'll be doing this with the rear so I can correct having the incorrect graphic direction (yeah, they sent the wrong one, no biggie). I guess i'm in the "nit-picking" stage of the game now, huh?

I'll have a pic of that sometime this weekend... if there's still room.

BTW - how many pics/space can I have in the Gallery???