Author Topic: Hammerhead - Where to get it? (Read 9062 times)

GrimJack · « **Reply #15 on:** March 04, 2003, 12:15:28 pm »

You should really use that anti-seize compound on bolts near your brakes anyway. I've seen hubs with the rotor bolts literally welded in from the heat. Anti-Seize only costs a few bucks for a tub that will last forever and a day, and it can save you hundreds in hubs and rotors.

Hammer · « **Reply #16 on:** March 05, 2003, 04:00:03 pm »

Dave... I strongly disagree about the anti seize or any other grease based thread treatments anywhere near the brakes.

Instead I suggest and reccomend that loctite be used. Both on the rotor to hub interface, and also to hold the calliper to the mount, also if applicable (to aftermarket brake adapter users) also on the bolts that hold the HammerHead onto the swingarm.

The reason being that loctite (just regular threadlocker) will hold the bolts in place, stop the ingression of water and other fluids (oooo-err missus) and also lubricate the threads when it is time to remove them.

So INHO, 5 chillis for loctite... and save the anti seize for your crank arms, and pedals..

For the record.. I use loctite on my BB interface too!

Ciao..

Mike - likes his loctite - Hammer

Hammer · « **Reply #17 on:** March 05, 2003, 04:12:32 pm »

Quote

Why Ti or stainless Steel, how about 7005 or 7075 Alu, is it going to be too weak? (it works fine on other frames.

Y0u probably could add couple mm to it's thiknes.

Ti and stainless alloys do not transfer heat so agressivly as alluminium, this keeps your dropout firmly bonded in your swingarm. Also Ti and the stainless alloy HammerHead use have flatter fatigue curves, whereas alluminium will always get to the point where it says.. "I've had enough cycles, I am gonna break now..bye bye"

>It works fine on other frames...

So did the o-rings on challenger... until they broke!

Re: Adding a couple of mm to the thickness...

You'll not be saving any weight then...... and I guess the attraction with a titanium brake adapter is is it's unobtanium value and drool factor... plus, theoretically we could make them even thinner... but I have to do the tests and simulations first (currently underway) I made two CAHH-Ti-6-4 HammerHeads Richard has one, and the other is in my test rig being Hammered... and once the trails thaw out, it will be out there doing the real life thing..... then a trip to italy should get the heat transfer, heat soak and temperature testing done... If the computer model analysis looks promising, I will get some test samples made in thinner material..... although I am sceptical.. and would never risk someone getting hurt, because we tried to save half an ounce.

Take it easy,

Hammer

GrimJack · « **Reply #18 on:** March 05, 2003, 06:49:12 pm »

But...

Loctite is designed to become a lubricant when you add enough heat... and our disc brakes create enough of that.

Depends on the grade you use, though.

Anti sieze works awesome, however. I've never had a bolt come loose while using it, and I started at the recomendation of the local bike shops, who use it on all builds.

Oz-SUB · « **Reply #19 on:** March 05, 2003, 07:08:32 pm »

In case you're wondering who Richard or Rich is, it's me - Oz-SUB!

Mike (he of Hammerhead), has cut the 4mm Ti plate I sent him, and managed to get two out of the plate. He is keeping one for testing / himself, and sending me the other one (after de-burring and polishing). So apart from the maker, I'll be the only Oz rider with a Ti Hammerhead.

It's probably in the post as I write this message. As soon as I get it, I'll take some pics of it and mounted.

Watch this space.

~~Richard~~ Oz-SUB

Carbon_Kiwi · « **Reply #20 on:** March 05, 2003, 07:13:03 pm »

sweet - look forward to it Oz-SUB

Old Proflexer · « **Reply #21 on:** March 06, 2003, 12:40:42 am »

i can see where titanium would have it's distinct advantages over say, stainless steel (even a super secret composite ss) or an aluminum and considering the risks, i would encourage one to utilize the latest technology available for a project such as this.

i've found, and i have no computer simulators, cad/cam programs etc, just off road practical experience, that the heat dissipates from the area quite quickly and minimal heat is transferred thru the caliper mounting bolts and the bridge of appropriate 8 mil + or so of spacers from the caliper to the internal face of the plate which is attached to the aluminum dropout.

perhaps one could do some practical brake testing, similar to the one's the major auto manufacturers do down Pikes Peak in Colorado. attach some simple sensors to various critical parts of the area and do some measurements. that may be too much of a project for a bike hack like myself. maybe just make some 8 mil spacers with mini radiator fins to cool things down if it's measured to be a problem.

every time i've gone down some very long, steep fire roads in the area and had the presense of mind to step off the bike and place my hand on the plate, it's never been much more that slightly elevated above ambient temperature. much of the heat appears to left the system before reaching the plate let alone the dropout.

now, fatigue and potential failure i can understand - but to date, none of the aluminum units i've made in my garage with simple hand tools have ever cracked or failed. many engineers think that some things cannot be 'overengineered' (no offense to any engineers) but sometimes, looking at the latest designs in bike technology, i have a tendency to think that they can -

long live the monopivot - it just needed a good shock to bring out it's full potential.

OP

Hammer · « **Reply #22 on:** March 06, 2003, 02:11:33 am »

Quote

perhaps one could do some practical brake testing, similar to the one's the major auto manufacturers do down Pikes Peak in Colorado. attach some simple sensors to various critical parts of the area and do some measurements[OP

I did temperature tests back in 1998 whilst in Italy... but brakes are getting better and better and maybe you are right... a trip to PP would be cool... and with an elevation of 4000m at the top, 2500m at the bottom (or the start of the hillclimb course) it should also give the brake fluid a really hard time tooo... considering that water boils at 60 celcius up there.

Great idea.... Just need to get callum to book the plane tickets.. maybe we can do it just after the PP hillclimb and go watch that first.

Which links me nicely into another subject..

Dave with all due respect that I have for bike shops and thier mechanics... I think that I'll take the advice of the guy who built the car that holds the Pro class record at Pikes Peak... yes.. the 800bhp SAAB.... that person being me!

IMHO, the potential risk with anti-seize compounds is that they are grease based.. and when heated the centrifugal force could throw the grease onto the disc rotor... I have seen it on race cars, which is why I would not reccomend it's use on disc brake rotor mounting bolts. Probably ok on the callipers though... but I prefer loctite...

Mikey- Until someone higher up the food chain tells me otherwise I'm sticking with loctite- Hammer !

;-)

Saab Picture here:

http://www.geocities.com/racing_green_uk/EKLUND_FRESH_AIR_180k.JPG

Scott · « **Reply #23 on:** March 07, 2003, 08:03:02 am »

take the advice of the guy who built the car that holds the Pro class record at Pikes Peak... yes.. the 800bhp SAAB.... that person being me!

Congratulations Mike! That's the first I've heard of a really noteworthy achievement here stateside-or anywhere else for that matter-you're a humble guy

Hammer · « **Reply #24 on:** March 07, 2003, 08:06:12 am »

Näääh..... just a car mechanic.... ;-)

BTW.... snowboarding is dangerous.. be careful!

http://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/ouch!.jpg

*********** I remember the days when motorsport was dangerous.... and sex was safe.. [smiley=blankstare.gif]

kiwi · « **Reply #25 on:** March 08, 2003, 09:51:45 am »

jeez youre even uglier than i imagined..

[smiley=laughing.gif]

hammer you mentioned ti keyrings..are they in the shape of a hammerhead adaptor or what...... got any pics???

Hammer · « **Reply #26 on:** March 08, 2003, 06:42:21 pm »

Yepp... they will be the shape of the original HammerHEad, the one that really did look like a shark! And they will have a bottle opener on them in the jaws.... the design is done and they look cool.... just have to make some and start testing.... Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!
Ptschhhhhhhh!............

But as always.... there is good news bad news...............

Good news is they are to be free.......................

The bad news is... You have to buy a HHTi upgrade to get one..........!!

Ciao...

Hammer

kiwi · « **Reply #27 on:** March 09, 2003, 05:38:41 am »

oooh..how about x56 hh..you ever finish it?

Hammer · « **Reply #28 on:** March 09, 2003, 05:15:02 pm »

Kiwi... Here is the page with the order code for the x56 HammerHead... also fits x55.

These have been available for a year now....!!

http://www.proflex.demon.co.uk/products/X56HH.html

But because you are a moderator... and a nice guy.... if you order a x56HH then there may be a Titaniun HammerHead bottle opener on it's way to you-..... maybe. ;-)

Hammie

kiwi · « **Reply #29 on:** March 10, 2003, 05:25:47 pm »

hmmmm thought so just didnt see it on your site..............

News:

Menu

Picture Bit

Author Topic: Hammerhead - Where to get it? (Read 9062 times)