Fevans - How do you rate your Risse & Psylo?

[Oz-SUB]

Dugo

I'll be weighing my bike soon when I've finished dailling it in - accepted the shorter stem now, so will cut cables to suit.  Also, awaiting Ti Hammerhead to arrive - weight weeny or what!

I think OP said he has tried an i2i of 8.75", and had no problems with it.  I think 8.5" i2i is probably a good balance, and 2.0" stroke will give 5" travel, so having a Psylo up front would give a perfect marriage of 5" front and back.

I'm of the opinion that having an i2i of 8.5 or even 8.75 and a max stroke of 2.5" would tend to reduce bob, due to the 'dig in' effect of the swingarm pivot position.  Anyone have experience / thoughts on this?

Oz-SUB

[Old Proflexer]

luv my Psylo SL -

http://idriders.com/proflex/files/Img_0080.jpg
http://idriders.com/proflex/files/Img_0079.jpg

keep an eye on the pure system tho - they have a tendency to require attention.

OP's Psylo SL Pure System Jiffy Maintainence -

set the fork at 5"
remove the damper cap, ball bearing and spring
remove the damping rod
inset a medium syringe casing and put about 10-20 cc's of oil in it.
cycle the fork about 10 - 15 times to release any air bubbles.
remove the syringe carefull to catch the oil in syringe.
replace the damping rod and let it float down, tighten it to lock out.
cleanup the excess oil and reinstall the spring, ball bearing and control knob.

rock and roll -

takes about 3-5 minutes and you won't have to take the whole fork apart to work on it -

works for me

OP

[fevans]

OP
Thanks for the service tip.  How often do you have to service the pure system?  I noticed that the damper on my Race was not locking out properly.  It would compress about 1/2" before locking out.  I figured it was low on oil or had air in it.  It's already in pieces now, but the next time I might try your suggestion.

Also, I noticed that your Psylo is red.  I don't think they came red originally.  Did you paint it or have it painted?  Is it powder-coated?  I was considering having my Race painted black instead of the current white.  I found a place that will powder-coat it for $30.  But I am a little concerned about the baking temps with the bushings in the lower legs.  Not really sure if I want to get into removing the bushings if they don't have to be.

Thanks,
Forrest

[Old Proflexer]

you could have air in the system - if you think so - either use my technique to refresh the system or go to the rock shox site and download the pdf file for the fork - both the u turn and pure system - they have a good amount of pics to help the garage mechanic.

if it stll looks somewhat like the posted pic, pull the right side pure system control knob red cap, tighten down the damping rod all the way then reinstall the cap.  i've seen too many psylos that did not have the cap on properly straight out of the box.  somebody at a factory somewhere just put the control knobs on without checking that the damping rod was in tight to lock out postion then installing the control knob with the knob at the 7:00 o'clock postion.

i redo the pure system whenever it's not functioning at a 10 level - haven't had it that long and only had to redo it a couple of times - keep in mind i'm somewhat a.r. and like to have everthing perfect.

typical me, the first time i got the fork i stripped it down to all the small parts then started to rebuild it - not wanting a white fork, i sanded it, primed it, spray painted it, stuck a few old proflex stickies on it and now everybody, at first glance, thinks its a smart fork - oh well.

OP

[Matno]

I still laugh every time I see your "freeride" suspension with those Bontrager Revolt SS tires!  

That's one heck of a beautiful bike though. Man!

[Old Proflexer]

i guess what i consider cross country, others call freeride -  



i truely may be that good  





i sure pound the snot out of the bike tho' - hasn't been this clean since the picture and no problems since i deteremined most of my creaking was coming from the splining 'tween the cassette and the hub.  the bontrager hubs leave much to be desired -
especially if one owns a set.



OP

[Matno]

Great. NOW you tell me about the Bontrager hub...  

I haven't had much chance to ride my new wheelset yet, but they seem okay so far. Which model are your wheels? I ended up getting the Race Disc Modified (although when I bought them on eBay, the auction just said "race disc"). The "modifieds" have quite a bit higher ratings on MTBR, so I'm hoping I'll be okay. Of course, I don't "pound the snot out" of anything so it's probably not an issue either way...  

[Old Proflexer]

i have the 'race disc'



on both of the hubs, the facing for the rotors was not exactly at 90 degrees so the rotors would wobble causing pad rub and noise - i ended up sanding/filing minor amounts on the rotor shims to allot for a near motionless movement when the wheel spins.



not super happy with the design on the bearings and seals front or rear.  



the junction of the splining and the hub allows for dirt entrance on my set and it's always getting just enough stuff in there to be annoying.  i bought another spline set (20$) from bontrager just in case.  it takes a 10 or 12 mm to remove the unit (another couple of bucks).



i do many river / stream crossings on my rides and at the holes in the rims for the nipples, the aluminum under the powder coating at just about every hole is 'worming' due to oxidation - cant stop it.



so - i bought a new set of discontinued, 9 speed only shimano 959 wheels and will switch to 9 speed (gulp) when the bontys give way.  they were on sale at supergo for well less than half a sale price and were probably mispriced - so i brought them home and they're hanging on the wall in their respective, custom nylon carrying bags







OP

[Matno]

  How could they be 9-speed only wheels? 9 speed and 8 speed hubs are identical dimensions. Personally, I'm a fan of 9 speed, but then, I tune my bikes more than I actually ride them (or so it seems this time of year!) Buttery smooth when set up right and better gearing options in the back (I love my 11-34 cassette)...

Thank goodness your Bontragers aren't the same as mine... They use different hubs. Mine were actually made by DT Swiss for Bontrager, so I'm not overly concerned about them. Those Shimano wheels sure look sweet though. I'm a big fan of the low-spoke-count look. Those Shimanos are the coolest looking wheels out there, IMHO. Pretty tough too, from what I hear.