What to do? New Front Fork or New Bike

[Bumpyride]

Bought my 856 new in '96 or '97 when I moved out to Seattle.  Grandiose ideas of trail riding, but was always a runner and kept on running and climbing, so the bike is basically a couple of months old.   Fast forward to present day, and with a new half knee and taking up new residence in Big Sky Montana parts of the year including summer months have decided to get back into trail riding (I'm no longer running trails).  Looking at new full suspension bikes, specifically a Giant Trance X 1 29er ( about $2600 which for me is a bunch of money),  but like my 856 frame which is a 14" better.  I don't plan to be racing, nor do I plan to be taking anything like big hits (I think I break too easily), but at 142 lbs, the Girvins with the 175 spring don't give me much absorption on the front shocks.  Back shocks are OK, but I'm standing on the pedals anytime I'm running over things anyway and I would get more than a hard tail anyway.

So, looking for opinions on a new front fork for the 856 around 5" or 120mm or 130mm, or biting the bullet and get a new bike.  I did go to a local bike shop, but all they wanted to do was to sell me a new bike.  I know that the new fork will change the geometry a bit, but I have shorter arms and use a riser on the stem anyway, so I don't expect it to be much of a detriment.  Also, I'd like to know all the new equipment that would be needed for the front fork (brakes/wheels/etc).

Most of the past posts I've read have been dated a few years back, so I'm kind of looking for updated recommendations.  Also any riders in the Bozeman/Big Sky area.

Side note:  I've been using the 856 in Portland Or while I've been working down here (just city riding for some exercise after work), and been stopped and had several people comment on my "Collectable 856".

Thanks for any info you can help with.  I've done all my tuneups and maintenance but have never changed out a fork.

[petes97857]

Hello and welcome

Good to here you found this site it's the best for info on your bike lots of information to trawl through.

These bikes are getting a bit old now and some parts are a bit difficult to find shocks elastomers and difficult and a bit expencive BUT you have a very light strong frame that could be used to make a 22lb xc racer that would cost $1000s if you bought a new equivalent today.

My suggestions are
Keep ALL parts you take off
Fit a new or second hand fork with 100mm travel as a maximum any more and the steering angles get a bit odd.

A short stem max 100mm reach
And some riser bars
Will help with the reach and have a more relaxed stance

Ask at local bike shops if they have customers who are upgrading parts you might get a bargain.
A complete bike can be a good bet for spares sometimes cheaper than buying individual  parts.

Ask around for help and parts we all have a few bits stashed away.

Pete

[Bumpyride]

Thanks Pete,

I know that I read in another thread that someone had said going to a longer fork would only change the angle by a degree, and that did not seem to be too much to deal with. So I'm holding that option open for a bit.  Anyone have a specific Fork recommendation, and what additional parts I would need.  I know that I need 1 1/8" and that I may have to switch to a disk brake, but after that I'm not sure what pieces I would need.

I plan on keeping all the parts that come off, and the shocks on the bike are the spring.

[shovelon]

Well I never got on with the J path of the linkage forks. Lots of people have put sliders on thier bikes. This one is from a Retrobike rider. If you are worried, get a 3 inch travel fork. I like 4 inches myself.



Terry

[Spokes]

Or you do what myself and Fyrstormer have done and fit adjustable forks. Mine are Fox Talas and adjust from 90mm - 130mm in 3mm increments so in theory you can choose a hight that suits you. Mine are as new and I paid £80 on EBay.
If you choose a fork that takes canti/V brakes everything else will fit back on without having to buy new, so you'll only be changing out the fork.

Chris

[fyrstormer]

Actually I'm thinking of switching to a fixed-travel fork. I bought the adjustable fork because it seemed like a neat idea and the price was right, but I never actually used it. The new Manitou Minute Expert uses a hybrid spring with a coil for base spring-rate and a low-pressure air chamber for additional spring-rate, which sounds like the closest I'm going to be able to get to a coil-sprung fork that isn't a cheap POS nowadays. The only question is whether to go with 80mm or 100mm, because I can't get the Minute Expert in 90mm.

Anyway, here's a picture of my bike, to encourage you not to trash your old frame just because you don't like the fork:

[fyrstormer]

That's one heck of a clean retro build. I can't abide the bullhorn endgrips, though; the only ones worth using are the Cane Creek Ergo 2 endgrips, because they keep your hands centered over the bar so the steering doesn't change. IMO, of course.

[Bumpyride]

Thanks guys,

I'm on the lookout for forks.  I tried a 29er, and didn't like it for what I'm planning, so I think I'll stick to the 856.  I like the size and the way it handles, especially on tight corners.  Your bike pictures kind of sealed the deal, and I can't see any reason to waste a good bike.  Now the decision on new brakes or keep the old.  Still haven't worn out the original pads.

[Spokes]

Good news! Fit your old brakes and try it first then you can spend more and upgrade if you feel it necessary. From canti's you could go for V or HS33.

Chris

[fyrstormer]

If you don't want to go with disc brakes, at least go with V-brakes. They work so much better than cantilevers, it isn't even funny. The very first thing I upgraded on my 756 was the brakes, and it was a good decision.

[Bumpyride]

The bike came stock with V Brakes.  Never had a problem with them, and they always have worked well.

I know the I need a Fork 1 1/8" Threadless, but not sure of any other associated parts I need for the fork replacement.  Would like to nail that down, so it's not 40 trips to the bike shop.  Am ambiguous to having new disc brakes, but I see a few forks that will accommodate either.

[fyrstormer]

You might need a new headset. The Girvin Vector I removed from my bike had a 1.0" steerer, and so it also had a 1.0" headset. I don't know if the fork you're replacing has a 1.0" or 1.125" steerer.

Some people are gung-ho about doing all the work themselves, but I took mine to a bike shop to have the headset swapped, because it also gave them an opportunity to check if the head tube needed to be reamed to make the ends perfectly parallel with each other. (they didn't, in my case, but I've had other frames that did need reaming.) Since I had previously been in a crash that had deformed the lower bearing housing (but not the outer bearing race itself, interestingly enough), I opted for a FSA headset that used cylindrical rollers in the lower bearing, and spherical rollers in the upper bearing. The cylindrical rollers are supposed to distribute impact forces over a larger area, but supposedly they're more likely to bind. I never had any issue with sluggish steering on mine, though.

[Bumpyride]

I happened to be at REI last night.  I bought the 856 from REI originally so I figured they might have some thoughts/extra parts if needed.  Decided on a new fork (Manitou Minute), new wheel (Sram), new brake (Disc), installed for $450 after dividend ($35 for installation), so I decided not to agonize over it and went for it.  I guess they can worry about the headset ( My brain is a little full).  The 856 has a 1 1/8" headset.