Crosslink rebuild, help need

[jazclrint]

Ok, so I FINALLY am rebuilding my x-link carbon fork.  I have removed and replaced all the bearings.  I also have brand new axels (the individual ones, not the 2 that attach to the fork) and washer kit.  Now, on the pivots that have their own axels there holes drilled into the bearings as a type of grease port I assume.  Should I drill a hole in those bearings as per the instructions, or leave it sealed and if I want to lube it just yank the axels out and lube it up..

Also, does anyone use the the tiny holes to lube the pivots?  And if you do, what kind of tool do you use?  Or does everyone just yank them apart?

Thanks,
Rich

[jazclrint]

Ahh, I also installed the new bearings without greasing them.  The instructions that came in the bag were not completely clear, and I thought why would I lube the side I don't want to move?  Have I done anything catastrophic?

[Colin]

Also see my other reply on the headset thread
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?topic=3567.msg26722#msg26722

No, I don't think you have created a problem.
I'm divided in my opinion on drilling them:
a) I never use those grease ports, i do a full strip, clean, grease and rebuild on my crosslinks about once a year, and if I suspect they are getting dry I just remove the Pivot Axles and give them a squirt and replace. The holes potentially let in crap and mine always seem to be blocked with grime, so I wouldn't use them as I'd be forcing crap into the bearing faces. so If and when I have to replace the bearings I don't think I will drill them.
b) You can still drill the bearings, in fact I'm sure it'll be easier now that they are in place! just a little concerned about Nylon swarf and cleaning the burr on the inside of the hole.
c) Correct, the Bearings do not rotate in the Link assemblies, the whole link assembly rotates on the Pivot Axles, so the inside face of the bearings is the important one to grease.





Good thread, I'm sure it will be of use to other people.

Regards
Colin S

[fyrstormer]

Gustav M's, huh? I always wanted a set of those, they look so cool. I'll probably put Hopes on my next bike though.

[jazclrint]

Ok, here's an update.  OMG!  Now, I have a new Campy record headset, EC70 flatbar, EA90 stem, EC90 barends, and Fulcrum Red Metal Zero rim brakes in addition to my fork rebuild.  And, please note I have a Fox Float RL in my fork as well.  But can you say smooth!  There are a few things of note.  I double checked my critical measurement (163mm) by measuring all the components that add up to it.  I discovered that my head tube is NOT 125mm like the manual says, it's 123 almost on the nose (5500c).  So this means I was almost 2mm short on my critical measurement.  The campy headset's stack height is 24.5mm, so I used a Micrometer and measured my spacers.  I'm over 15mm, but just shy of the required 15.5mm.  A few 10ths shouldn't hurt.  And in addition to a double checked stack height, I also used a tourque wrench on everything.  There was WAY less play in the fork, and can you say smoooooth.  The dive when I mounted the bike, gone.  Any J-path blues type antics, gone.  Only once in 8 miles did I get a hint of the wheel not wanting to just roll over roots.  And with the headset working so smooth as well, the thing went where I pointed, and I was not fighting the bike anywhere near as much.  As a matter of fact, the front end felt much better than the back end.  Which is fine with me where I tend to like a more planted front end. Now these trails were rooty, but not like what I'm used to.  So a short travel fork is right at home on these trails (actually built and designed to attract WC races).  But it felt like I had more than enough travel.  I'll have to go back to my old college trails to get a real idea of what's going on.  But man, it is a whole new fork!  One last disclaimer.  I didn't double check my sag setting.  I used the same 42psi I got when I checked sag back in May before the rebuild.  I know many of you don't believe in dialing sag.  But for me it's the difference between railing switchbacks, and running wide, and making the bike feel right.

Honestly, I think it'd hold up against $500 80mm forks.  But I haven't ridden any lately.

[Spokes]

The grease gun you need is readily available at bike shops with the correct size nozzel already attached. I use the grease ports when I rebuild my crosslinks just to make sure there is a good amount of grease in there. Bolt up the forks loosely then squirt the grease  into the small grease ports untill it is forced out buy the seals. Then torque up the bolts and wipe away the excess grease. This way you can be sure you havent wiped off all the grease when you pushed the shafts through the bearings. Works for me.

Did you have to do any modifcations to the Fox Float RL to use it with the crosslinks or did it fit straight in? As Fox is a much easier shock to get serviced in UK Id be interessted in fitting one myself.

Chris

[jazclrint]

I chronicled my Fox upgrade procedure in this forum.  But the short of it is, no, it will not bolt straight on.  I designed and had an adapter made.  I am in the process of simplifying this design.  I am also looking at stuffing the newer and longer 8.5" Fox Float that has 2.5" of travel.  If the charts in the archives are at all accurate, I should be looking at over 90mm of travel with that shock.

[fyrstormer]

I think shortening the headset stack will reduce the curve of the J path, but obviously only by a tiny bit in the case of .5mm difference.

[jazclrint]

Well, it was actually 2mm too short before.  Now it's only .5mm short.  I'd just say a proper rebuild and torque cures most problems.  Seriously, if this is what the pros were riding back in the late 90's, anyone on a Rock Shox was sucking wind.  I want someone at the LBS to ride it just to see if I'm not just over reacting on how awesome this for is now.  I'm sure a stiffer wheel is helping too.

[w2zero]

Now if there was just a way to put blinders on the test riders at the LBS you would probably get rave reviews on the fork.  However, they will bag on it just because it doesn't look trendy enough.

[Spokes]

I chronicled my Fox upgrade procedure in this forum.  But the short of it is, no, it will not bolt straight on.  I designed and had an adapter made.  I am in the process of simplifying this design.  I am also looking at stuffing the newer and longer 8.5" Fox Float that has 2.5" of travel.  If the charts in the archives are at all accurate, I should be looking at over 90mm of travel with that shock.

How did I miss that?!?
I will go search it out
Thanks

Chris

[jazclrint]

It was like 5 years ago.  Some key words to search for is "MULA" and "shock length"