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Author Topic: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring  (Read 2882 times)

Oz-SUB

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Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« on: March 27, 2003, 01:20:55 am »
There was an earlier post on this subject.

While out riding and looking down at the rear wheel / checking how my derailleur was doing, I noticed that the rear wheel seemed out of kilter.

When I checked the wheel / QR / dropouts, I noticed that the small conical spring that comes with the QR (two one either end) had become trapped under the HammerHead adapter.  This was enough to throw the wheel out of true.

After I ensured the spring was on the outside of the HammerHead all was OK.  Perhaps it's a good idea to remove the spring on the HammerHead side altogether.  Any thoughts from you guys?

Oz-SUB

2003 99 K2 Oz-M with USE S.U.B. Fork & Fox DHX Air rear shock
2001 98 K2 5500c (Oz) Now Son's bike
1997 Proflex 957
1992 Proflex 952
1990 KONA Explosif
1988 SARACEN Tufftrax

5500C

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Re: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2003, 02:26:40 am »
I have the similar problem and the QR spring is tweaked.

Advice needed too.

Thanks

Matno

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Re: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2003, 02:57:38 am »
Far as I know, the only reason the QR even has a spring is to hold the skewer "open" and thus make installation a bit easier. Once you clamp the QR lever, the spring serves no function. You should have no problems if you just remove it. Have fun riding!
K2 5000 Large w/Avid discs, Bontrager Race Disc Modified wheels, Manitou Minute, Swinger 3-way
K2 5000 Med ("wife's") w/Avid V's, Mavic CrossLink wheels, Manitou X-vert, Risse Astro-5

Old Proflexer

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Re: Wheel Alignment - QR Spring
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2003, 12:29:22 am »
those springs get tweaked for a variety of reasons and it's best to just pick up a new set at an lbs if you want to use them at all.  as per matno, they're used to center the skewer when installing the wheel and some people just remove them all together.  they are generally designed to collapse on themselves and reside inside the skewer cap when compressed and the skewer is compressed against the dropouts.

some rear disc brake adapters have a wider gap at the dropout slot than others and the spring can get wedged into a wider slot.  might try using a larger thin washer with a center hole sized to just fit over the skewer post, between the spring and the adapter.  that'll keep the spring from moving into the gap, if you keep the wheel on for long periods of time and don't do a lot of removal and reinstallation, one can learn to do without.

also, if you use them, make sure the springs are facing the right direction.

a wedged / messed up spring could affect wheel alignment if the skewer is tight - the wheel aligns from the inside the dropouts when the skewer post is installed at the base of the slots and if the spring is in there -
well, it just shouldn't be cause a little bit there is a whole lot somewhere else.

OP
« Last Edit: March 28, 2003, 12:41:26 am by Old_Proflexer »
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Paul_Harhen

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Re: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2003, 02:51:55 am »
I just do not use the spring. It is a pain with the Hammerhead and makes it harder to mount the wheel. No downside by eliminating it.

Thunderchild

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Re: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2003, 05:12:40 am »
I too have removed the spring from the disc brake side.  
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Oz-SUB

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Re: Wheel Alingment - HammerHead QR Spring
« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2003, 06:41:50 pm »
Yup!  I've also now removed the pesky little spring from the HammerHead side of the QR.  All is now aligned and correct.
2003 99 K2 Oz-M with USE S.U.B. Fork & Fox DHX Air rear shock
2001 98 K2 5500c (Oz) Now Son's bike
1997 Proflex 957
1992 Proflex 952
1990 KONA Explosif
1988 SARACEN Tufftrax