Deep cup headsets for Proflex/K2

[shovelon]

I have seen my share of headtube problems, and it seems that one eventual failure on all of our bikes is the interface between the lower headset cup and the frame. Beyond just wearing out the press fit, there is also cracking of the tube itself, all at the bottom.

Having repaired my 957 with an ovalized bore, and now my Oz with a nasty creak, and still have a 3000 with a crack, I am sold on deepcup headsets.

So far I have found FSA, and Acros makes deep cup headsets. Has anyone found any others? I am looking to stay as close to 100 grams as possible. I have even thought about using standard uppers.

What do you think?

Terry

[orange]

quick google search reveals Cane Creek and VP-One, too.

[kiwi]

surely a problem with any older aluminium bike Terry???

[jeffhop]

chris king do this one
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2035
but its a bit heavier than 100 grms

[shovelon]

Just recieved the Acros deep cup. Has a beefy thick cup and sealed cartridge bearing that I can upgrade to ceramic if I want. The claimed weight of 125 grams is without the star fangled nut and top cap/screw. But I like it!  I think I am going to trim and internaly taper both cups. 

I googled and got Crank Bros. They have freeride version of thier steel headsets at 92 grams. I am sure that must also be without nut and cap/screw.

[Luke]

The only deep cups I'm interested in have a clasp at the back

Where was I?
Oh yes, headsets.

Way back when I thoutht it was worthwhile trying to shave weight on mr 5500 I bought a Ritchey headset, notorious for being minimalist, the creak developed fairly soon after.

So I bonded the bottom cup in.

It came out no problem the other year when I had the smart idea of trying my fork on another bike. I gave up on that idea, the steerer was too short - by only a few mm.

It's back where it belongs now, cosily bonded into the bottom of my lovely plastic frame.

The head tube is worryingly short, the leverage of a long fork could one day have it out. I pay very close attention to the slightest creak from that area (bad experiences with Cannondales).

[shovelon]

The only deep cups I'm interested in have a clasp at the back

I'll drink to that!

My LBS wrench bonds in lower cups also. Not a bad idea.

[hyperhank]

The only deep cups I'm interested in have a clasp at the back

Where was I?
Oh yes, headsets.

Way back when I thoutht it was worthwhile trying to shave weight on mr 5500 I bought a Ritchey headset, notorious for being minimalist, the creak developed fairly soon after.

So I bonded the bottom cup in.

It came out no problem the other year when I had the smart idea of trying my fork on another bike. I gave up on that idea, the steerer was too short - by only a few mm.

It's back where it belongs now, cosily bonded into the bottom of my lovely plastic frame.

The head tube is worryingly short, the leverage of a long fork could one day have it out. I pay very close attention to the slightest creak from that area (bad experiences with Cannondales).

what do you use to bond with? epoxy? 3M Sealant?  When it is time for removal what's the procedure?

[Luke]

what do you use to bond with? epoxy? 3M Sealant?  When it is time for removal what's the procedure?

3M epoxy glue
A slow cure Araldite or equivalent should do the trick.
I made up a headset cup press out of a bit of M25 threaded bar, two nuts and some old steel headset cups to transfer the load to the inside of the cups rather than the outside flange.
While the glue was setting I left the clamp tight in place.

To remove them you take a steel bar or tube about the same diameter as the inside of the cups, with a well squared off end. put it down the inside of the tube and hook it to one side onto the top of the cup sleeve.
And hit it with a decent hammer.
Move the bar evenly all round this rim until the cup falls on the concrete floor and gets scratched on the outside despite all your efforts not to damage the finish   

Once your headset is bonded in the only possible reason you'd want to take it out is if it has died; so actually you can happily wallop it any old how to get it out 

Most bike shops have a sophisticated version of the bar; you still have to hit it.

Happy headsets
Luke