Fix Smartshock or change it out?

[knuckledragger]

     Well I finally got around to messing with the Crosslink with Smartshock I purchased a while back.  I plan on putting it on my Beast GDT to replace the Vector.  Anyway, I pulled the shock off the fork and noticed oil that appears to be seeping from under the plastic cover where it attaches to the shock body.  I think this is where the electronic valving is supposed to be.  The oil had been seeping long enough that it had softened the adhesive on the thin plastic cover that goes over the control buttons on the side of the battery compartment.  The "button cover" came off and I was able to remove all of the old adhesive but it will need to be reattached to cover the buttons and keep out water and such.  I am not sure how I will do this.    
    I am not sure if I should have Noleen Shock Service work it over (at $100.00+) or if I should look for another shock that could replace it.  My wife is getting a bit irritated at the idea of putting more money into a 10+ year old bike.  I added a Stratos Helix Expert to the rear late last year and I wanted to upgrade the front also.  I was hoping to get a fully functioning shock and fork in one shot but it looks like it didn't happen……….any thoughts?  
    Just for information; I am about 225lbs (and loosing) and I ride all kinds of terrain.  Some downhill, some trail, some street.  Thanks for your thoughts and ideas in advance!

[Ade]

Recently put a Risse genesis on my cross link and that works well. Good exchange rate at moment too.

cheers
Ade

[Colin]

    ............ My wife is getting a bit irritated at the idea of putting more money into a 10+ year old bike.  ……….any thoughts?  
      Thanks for your thoughts and ideas in advance!

Change the wife ? ? ? ? ?

I'm a bit fed up with putting more money into a 10 year old wife.......I'm sure I never renewed the licence after the first year, but she's still hanging around......

<Grin>

To be honest, I cannot tell the difference when my smartshock is on/off/soft/firm or with a flat battery!
But it looks great.................

I think if they service it they will turn it into a "dumb" shock i.e a NR-2. That's what CVI told me here in the UK when they were still doing them.....

Keep your eyes open for a NR-2 maybe.....?

Col.

[orange]

10 year old wife

isn't that what Gary Glitter was done for?!

[knuckledragger]

Well, I talked to Noleen Shock Service today.  They offered a couple of options.  I can buy an NR2 from them for $249.00 (ouch!!!) or I can send them my Smartshock and they will replace the body (and make it an NR2) for $125.00.  
    I was surprised that they wanted $249.00 for an old stock NR2!  That seems to make the Risse Genesis a good deal at $198.00.  So, what would you do?
    Basically, I can have my shock rebuilt as an NR2 with all new seals and such for $125.00, or I could get a Risse Genesis for $75.00 more.  
   

[wylyman]

 Or get rid of it all together and buy a Fox float or similar.  I got mine slightly used on ebay for $300.  Far superior to those crosslinks and it has 5" travel equal to the beast rear end.  I know what you mean about the $, I just put $800 into my 9 year old bike!

[shovelon]

Buy a decent 4 inch travel slider for cheap. I have seen Suntour forks on Ebay, which look surprisingly descent. Personaly, I am replacing my carbon crosslink with a Noleen Mega Air that I got for $190. Light, and 100 mm of travel.

If you are really attached to the crosslinks, rebuild the one you have for cheap, and use a good lizard skin shock boot.

I would recommend the Risse genesis, but it is more money, and you need some time to send it back to the factory for tuning. Overseas would make that too pricy. Their rear shocks are very, very good. In fact, I may put my genesis on the rear of my Evo.

Terry

[Colin]

isn't that what Gary Glitter was done for?!

He didn't marry, he just asked "Do You Wanna Touch Me? (Oh Yeah)"............(Leader! Leader! Leader!...........) ahem, sorry to our colonial friends for obscureness of thread.........

Yeh, them shocks on the Crosslinks can become a major cost to refurb. See my thread on putting a section of old inner tube over the shock shaft to help prevent early failures.

http://idriders.com/cgi-bin/YaBB_K2/YaBB.pl?board=news;action=display;num=1152594463;start=4#4

Col.

[orange]

that trick with the inner tube is great. mate did it on his and it worked fantastically. nice one. I plan to do it on mine soon. Have plenty of spare inners now as seem to be getting punctures every ride with all the hedge flailing... grrr...

[shovelon]

He didn't marry, he just asked "Do You Wanna Touch Me? (Oh Yeah)"............(Leader! Leader! Leader!...........) ahem, sorry to our colonial friends for obscureness of thread.........

See my thread on putting a section of old inner tube over the shock shaft to help prevent early failures.

Col.

LOL!!!!  

I missed the inner tube idea the first time around. Brilliant idea. My first failure without a boot was a ride after a rain shower. The rear tire spit small gravel bits onto the Nr1 shaft, and got smashed into the seal. Oily mess ensued. It has been boots ever since. The inner tube idea is the knats arse!

Terry

[Matno]

For $200 you can easily get a brand new Manitou Minute or similar very high quality fork on eBay. (And probably for about half that if you're willing to go with practically new). I'd say it's well worth the upgrade, even if you are having a hard time getting rid of your linkage fork. 4" travel makes a big difference over 3" as well...

[knuckledragger]

Well, I do have to admit that I am a bit attached to the Crosslink/Vector design.  It fits nicely with the retro styling of the rest of the bike as well.  I have never been a real fan of the regular telescopic forks.  They had so much flex; especially for larger riders.  I just purchased the Crosslink to get a bit more suspension up front as compared to my Vector.  It just sucks that the shock is bad.  I am not sure what I will do at this point.  I liked my Vector and I figured I would like the new Crosslink even more.  Decisions, decisions…………………

[orange]

I'd be tempted with a Risse...just save up for it ;-)

[Scott]

First check that you need to rebuild it!  Often assembly residue from the factory wicks all over a shock and dissolves decal adhesive. Remove the spring and slide the shock through a few cycles-you should feel a slight resistance throughout and when fully compressed a steady return to full out will mean a retained charge of nitrogen. If not try turning the rebound adjuster full opposite and retest.  Sometimes this adj. can be set to prevent return of the shaft with no spring installed.  You should be able to see change in speed of rebound with change in setting too.  Use contact cement on the button cover and you may also use a slight bit of filler beneath the 9 volt battery as some brands do not fit snugly.  If the shock doesn't seep after some use you'll know the seals are OK and only a recharge of nitrogen may be due in time.  Keep an eye on eBay for Noleen and K2 nitrogen recharge equipment-I bought mine for a song and a stop at the welding shop can have a shock recharged for cheap-though I've yet to need it.