Razorback main pivot bearing maintenance

[jkjel1]

I'm trying to get to the main pivot bearing on my razorback. I got the left hex bolt out by turning counter clockwise. When I try to take the right one out (counterclockwise) it turns but doesn't seem to be loosening. What am I missing here. How often does this thing need to be cleaned and regreased ? Do I need to be doing this ? It's a 2000 team frame (red,white and blue). This all started with a ting/tick when cranking down hard on my left pedal so I thought since I've come this far I guess I should regrease my main pivot and check the bushing.

[David Cepp]

I am having the same difficulty! However, you dont unscrew the drivetrain side (I dont think). You need to insert a dowel (correctly sized socket for example)  inside the side opposite the drivetrain and tap with a hammer. See the K2 website for maintenacne on the Razorback frames. With all of this, I tried to tap,bang,slam the pivot axle out and it will not budge. Maybe you need to do a combination of the  two (unscrew then tap with dowel)? Try it and let me now how you fare. It should be a hell of a lot easier than we are making it out to be!! Its a simple effin pivot bolt!
-Dave

[TCP]

The razorback has 4 sealed bearings in the main pivot and the pivot axel fits VERY tightly in them.  I've had a 2000 model apart but was very lucky not to have damaged the bearings POUNDING the axel out.  I would remove the seatstays and just check for any play or rough movementin the range of travel in the chainstay pivot. if there isn't any, leave it alone.  there really is nothing you can do to the bearings anyway as they are regular cartridge bearing and removing them from the frame will destroy them, if that doesn't happen while pushing the axel out.  If you have any play, order the pivot rebuild kit before you remove anything as parts will break during the prodecure.   things fit very tightly in there.  That pivot should last 10 years or more.  What might get loose is the pivots at the rear axel.  they are just flanged delrin bushings that are easily replacable.  you can usually just pry them out with a screwdriver.  measure them and get the part numbers you need from here:

http://www.nationalprecision.com/nm7.htm

Then just go to a bearing shop or transmission supply store and give them the part numbers to order for you.  much cheaper that way.

[David Cepp]

We  cant even get the swingarm off! How do you get the pivot axle out! Is it screwed in on the drivetrain side? Or do you unscrew the hex nut on the non-drive side and tap the pivot axle out?

[TCP]

I wouldn't recommend taking it apart unless you have play in it or it's rough because "tapping" or "pressing" it out causes such large lateral forces on the inner race of the 4 bearings, that they will probably break apart or have play in them after you get the axel to press out.  that being said, here is what i did:
- unscrewed the bolt out of the axel a ways, maybe 4 turns(make sure you have the bolt side as the head is attached to axel on the other side)
-place pivot in a bench vise and place a socket that has an inside diameter larger than the axel end over the axel end so it pushes into the socket when force is applied.
-turn crank on vise until the bolt head is flush with the swingarm.
-you'll now see the axel has pushed out the other side into the socket a bit.
-remove the bolt completely
-place a socket with the same outside(ok, just slightly smaller but still makes contact fully with the end of the axel) diameter as the axel against the axel that you have pushed in a ways.
-place the big socket over the other side again and tighten the vise again, pushing the small socket into place where the axel is being pushed out
-repeat this type of maneuver until the axel is pushed out.

only after the axel is completely out will you be able to remove the swingarm and by that time you've probably damaged the bearings.  so you get to press them out as well and they're in there even tighter and you risk damaging your front triangle.  not worth is for a small creak that is probably eminating from somewhere else anyway.  you're better off to remove and regrease all the interfaces of the BB, cranks, seatpost and headset first to remove any doubt as to where the sounds are coming from.  

[jkjel1]

Thanks to everyone who replied.

I found an article on the internet from a K2 source and decided that there was no reason to remove it. I didn't have any play or any problem. I was just in the maintenance mode. After looking at the diagrams and and now everyones replies I'm glad I didn't mess with it.

This all started out with a "ting" sound when I was cranking up hill coming from the BB area. I solved this problem with grease. I greased the pedal threads and the shaft the crank arm presses onto. The "ting" is gone but the thrill is still there. For all you BB King fans.