What do I need to know about cassttes?

[jetman624]

I see these numbers, 11-34, 12-23 etc.. which one do I need  

[rapiddescent]

11 - 34 ; pronouced as 11 to 34 indicates the 'range' of the cassette gearing.  Ranging from 11T (teeth) on the smallest cog to 34T on the biggest one.  If you have the chain on the 11T - i.e. top gear then you'll be able to go bloody fast with lower revs of the pedals.  34T  on the rear cassette is micro granny-gear for steep uphills.

12 to 23is a narrower range - I use a narrow range on my road going K2 Zed - on road you don't need the range of gears but need the gears to be 'close together' i.e. less difference between changing gears.

The 11-34 will have massive difference between the gears and is much better for offroad riding.

callum
rd /s

[Frankd3000]

You both meant to say "12-32", right? 23T cassette? Y'all go OFFroad, right? [smiley=laughing.gif]



Another consideration - 8-speed or 9 speed - this may or may not necessitate the replacement of the chain and shifters also.

Good opportunity to shave a few grams if you're looking to. Mmmmm, Ti XTR. Arrghgrhghgh.

[rapiddescent]

you can actually get 11T cassettes!  mental!

also, I use 8 speed cassettes because the chains are stringer and more durable.  I always use SRAM cassettes because shimano 8-speed has a nasty 'hole' in the gearing in the 5th and 6th cogs!!!

singlespeed just makes more sense doesn't it!

callum
rd /s

[Thunderchild]

Another thread on gearing.  I run a 5 arm crank so I can put that wonderful 20T chainring on.  4-arm cranks are limited to 22T.  It makes a difference to my knees!

[will]

Guys,

I can't help myself... How often do you really need the front derailleur?  [smiley=groucho.gif]

When I realized I could climb anything I ride in Texas and Oklahoma with a 34 in front, and I didn't want to pedal any faster than a 34 x 12 in the woods, I gutted all that stuff and rode away much lighter and happier.

As a bonus, the 856 has a perfect chain roller location on the pivot!

Simplicity, simplicity, simplicity... and a few good jumps.  

[Kevins19]

I agree...

After a few years of never shifting the front gears on my EVO, I just took the front derailer off and took out a few links in the chain. Saves some weight... I just couldn'y see having anything weighing down the bike and making it more complex (I already break too many parts!) than it has to be. The only thing is I did drop my chain more often without the derailer to hold it in place, so mabye a roller or something to help that.

Also, if you know you will be doing serious climbing for a while or a super fast down hill section just take 10 seconds and move the chain up or down a ring in front.

Without a shifter / cable / derailer you could probably save a pound or so.