Author Topic: New (old) 1998 4000 (Read 12432 times)

Spokes · « **Reply #30 on:** January 29, 2014, 12:26:54 am »

I bought an off the shelf gaurd for the front which has the square and round shape in it so I can use it on both the 4000 and the 857. There are lots of different ones in the shops.
My 4000 runs a FOX rear shock now which is a great improvement over my NR4 which was in need of a desparate rebuild.

Chris

Spokes · « **Reply #31 on:** January 29, 2014, 12:40:48 am »

Col what was the difference between the 4000 and the 4000se.
Mine is a first month 4000, I had it on pre-order from new. I changed the spec from new to inclucde the carbon forks and swopped the NR5's for a NR4 on the rear and NR2 on the front. Didnt some of the later 4000 have sealed bearings in the swing arm just like the Monkey's?

Chris

Colin · « **Reply #32 on:** January 29, 2014, 03:36:20 am »

Quote from: Spokes on January 29, 2014, 12:40:48 am

Col what was the difference between the 4000 and the 4000se.
Mine is a first month 4000, I had it on pre-order from new. I changed the spec from new to inclucde the carbon forks and swopped the NR5's for a NR4 on the rear and NR2 on the front. Didnt some of the later 4000 have sealed bearings in the swing arm just like the Monkey's?

Chris

About $249 !!! <GRIN>

Yes, the se had the CS fork as standard; other than that, they were identical. They weren't even badged differently!
So, if you upgraded to a CS fork on purchase then effectively you also have an "se"!

I think mine had some other "sold at source" upgrades, inlcuding ceramic rims and brake blocks, which I don't run anymore, using the Spin 3 spoke carbons instead, at the moment.
I'm not sure if Titec bar ends were as standard or extras, what was on yours? I've replaced those with longer Ti one's anyway.
I had to replace the crankset and so put an FSA Carbon one on.

The 4000rs was the needle bearing version which then became the "Evo" and then "Monkey"

Col.

Spokes · « **Reply #33 on:** January 29, 2014, 12:39:44 pm »

I'm guessing the 'se' came a bit later on then because when I ordered mine the choice was either a 4000 or a 5000. I couldn't afford a 5000, but to buy a 4000 and up spec the forks off-set with down specing the shocks, was much cheaper. Like I say, I ordered mine before they were released, probably 6 months before. Mine had Titec bar ends also.

Chris

purple gerbil · « **Reply #34 on:** January 29, 2014, 01:11:09 pm »

My 4000se was badged with 4000se stickers..but can't prove it via photo because it's been sand blasted, also discovered it has 16" stamped on the back of the bottom bracket, anyone else have this? or was u.k frames different?

Scooter · « **Reply #35 on:** February 01, 2014, 05:11:54 pm »

Lubed and adjusted the swing arm pivot today. It was stiff enough that it wouldn't fall with it's own weight. Way better now.It's a noticeable difference. Next task to tackle is cleaning and lubing the front linkages. Now where did I put that mini grease gun!

Spokes · « **Reply #36 on:** February 02, 2014, 12:07:05 am »

Good man, it'll be worth it!

Chris

Scooter · « **Reply #37 on:** February 12, 2014, 08:44:30 am »

I took apart the front suspension. I had bought the bushings and was going to replace them but they looked like they were in good shape and the bushings on my bike had a groove where the grease hole is. The bushings I bought didn't have that grove so I would have had to cut the groove myself. In the end I just cleaned and greased everything. The assembly went ok except when I removed the bolts that hold on the legs it seemed like they had been tightened very tight. When I put it back together, I first tightened them tight but that caused the linkage to become stiff so I backed off the bolts until the linkage had pretty free movement. The movement isn't absolutely free moving, for example with the linkage lifted up, it does not fall on its own. But it can be moved up and down relatively freely. Does that sound correct? Secondly when I tightened the bottom leg bolt, there was a gap at the top leg bolt area so I took the two thin spacers that had been initially located on the bottom and moved them to the top to lessen this gap. In the end, the stiction is gone

. It's been raining so I have only been able to ride it in the neighborhood but so far I am satisfied. Getting closer to getting everything dialed in.

As a side note. I see the bolts were supposed to be torqued to 100 in. lbs. I will recheck that. I also see the shims were only supposed to go on the bottom link. I will have to revisit that also. I just ordered new seals so I will redo the seals when I receive them. Come to think of it, the bolts must of appeared to be tight due to the blue loctite.

Spokes · « **Reply #38 on:** February 14, 2014, 07:32:10 am »

You seem to have worked it all out for yourself, well done, but just to give you peace of mind..
All bolts should be done up to correct torque and yes a dab of blue loctite should be used on all bolts.
When freshly greased the links won't fall under their own weight as the grease stiction will stop them. They probably fell before as they had no grease left in there. Remember, if you were to fit the wheel minus the shock they would fall freely with no stiction due to the weight of the wheel. You are looking for a smooth action with no tight spots.
After a few rides the grease will settle in and they will free off a little anyway so better to start off with a smooth but firmer build.
But most of all tighten those bolts up fully and lock them in, otherwise they will work loose mid ride...!?!

Chris

Scooter · « **Reply #39 on:** March 10, 2014, 08:47:02 am »

Been having fun riding. The bike is getting dialed in. I have a very slight creak that comes and goes. Hard to pinpoint but it seems to happen when I am putting pressure on the cranks. I get tons of compliments and people are amazed when they hear the bike is 16 years old.

Spokes · « **Reply #40 on:** March 11, 2014, 04:58:04 am »

Check your crank arm bolts are tight ax that gives a creak there. Glad your enjoying the power of the 4000!

Chris

w2zero · « **Reply #41 on:** March 11, 2014, 08:47:53 am »

Crank creaking can drive you more insane. You may have to remove the cranks and clean the tapers, then wipe a very thin bit of lube on there before reassembly. Essentially, wipe it on with a finger and then wipe it off to leave a minimal film.

Re: the Loctite, be sure to remove all the old Loctite and torque the screws while the new Blue
is wet or your torque values won't be accurate. Likewise any non-loctited fasteners should be torqued with lube for the same reason.

Scooter · « **Reply #42 on:** April 04, 2014, 11:43:19 am »

Took apart the bottom bracket,cranks and chain rings. Replacing the chainring bolts. Will also check the pedals. The creaking was driving me crazy.

w2zero · « **Reply #43 on:** April 04, 2014, 02:10:17 pm »

it is a short drive seeing as how you are a Proflexer

Scooter · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2014, 03:07:45 pm »

Ugggh, still have creak. I didn't do the pedals. I hope that's it. Man it's tough to find.

News:

Menu

Picture Bit

Author Topic: New (old) 1998 4000 (Read 12432 times)