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OP's Crosslink disk adapter instructions
Crosslink disk adapters, by OP. Pictures are at the bottom of the
article.
(Remember, all modifications to your bike are at your own risk here - if you screw up, don't be trying to sue myself, or OP ...ed) This will be the only time I post this so get your copy and paste buttons ready 'cause once it's gone, it's gone. Due to my time constraints and quite a few of you guys emailing me on info - I'm posting this so you guys can have a copy of some basic info on how this can be done. Keep in mind that this is the 'garage mechanics' version of how to do this, people with a machine shop will have a much easier time of things. We've used this technique and others for the aluminum leg models and there are quite a variety of mounting techniques, adapters, etc. For the aluminums but this is for the design I've made for the carbon leg. You'll find from the design that there is very little torque on the leg and leg mount. Most of the braking pressure is applied 'into' the leg and very little pressure is place on the epoxy holding the mount in place. the large half round plate was just a size that I picked that looked to be sufficient to distribute stress - believe me, the first time down a steep long hill when I really needed that front brake was "VERY EXCITING" not knowing if I was going to be made into a shish-kabob. we have never had any failures of any kind on this design. I only undertook this adventure after consulting with the guys in the k2 tech department, getting numerous ideas from others and a desire to push the envelope a bit. In all things like this, measure twice, cut once. Materials:
Cut off a +/- 4 1/4 inch piece of the tubing and then again along the length of the cut tube, an arc approximating the bend of the leg. The idea is to set the edge of the metal to the side of the leg, transferring the stresses of braking over a wide area and to the sides of the leg as possible to prevent any buckling. With a vise and or hammer and or whatever, increase the bend of the metal slightly to accomodate the sharper bend of the leg on the inside where it meets the flat internal side. Match the plate to the bend of the leg as close as possible but leave room for error and it is best to 'over bend' a bit to allow room for the mounting epoxy which will go underneath - too close a match will press out all the epoxy later and weaken the bond. Cut a +/- 2 1/2 inch piece of the channel aluminum and bevel at a 45 degree angle, the inside lip of one side of the channel. This will allow that side to sit lower than the uncut side when put on the cut tubing. After the bevel, you can use a file or a dremel tool, place the beveled side down upon the 'overbent' section of the cut tubing. Put the whole thing on your leg and make sure you can achieve a 90 degree face, perpendicular to the plane of the rotor. mount your wheel and see if you're close - minor adjustments can be made when epoxying and or shimming. the two pieces are now ready for welding - make sure you have what would appear to be adequate space between the two pieces of metal for some kind of internal fastening device, nuts etc.. C-clamp the two pieces together to hold in place making pencil marks as necessary in the event of minor movement and weld. In the picture I supplied - the channel piece is backwards, sorry - and that extra mount in my hand is just something I was playing with from an "L" shaped piece of aluminum in the event i could not get any more of the qr-20 mounts. They were out of stock for quite a while. Put the unit on the leg and recheck for a 90 degree angle to the rotor. minor filing, polishing etc. to the weld, edges etc for aesthetics can be done at this time. Mount the wheel with rotor, caliper to the rotor and hold it in place by rigging up the levers to a bar and holding the lever tight with a big rubber band. Adjust the caliper on the rotor so it sits properly. Mount the reversed qr-20 with appropriate bolts and spacers so that the qr-20 sits near the middle of the flat mounting surface. The two surfaces should match up very closely if not exactly. Readjust the caliper slightly if need be. you are now ready to mark, drill and mount the qr-20 to the unit then epoxy the unit to the leg or you can epoxy the unit to the leg at this time then mark, drill and mount the qr-20 holes after it is installed. Rough up the bonding surfaces, mix epoxy, we use a 5-7 minute bonding type with a 2500-3000 rating for plastics and aluminum. For the inside mounting device in the cavity of the unit, you can use nuts to hold down the bolts or what we do is cut a piece of 3/4" wide aluminum bar, drill and tap to match the holes of the qr-20 and the corresponding holes in the flat surface of the channel aluminum. Y You may want to experiment with a few things to see what works best for you - I prefer to make my own plate as dealing with nuts inside that little space is a pain in the butt and a single piece of metal that slides in and out is much easier to work with. you probably will have to carve off some of the metal with a half round file to accommodate the internal bend in the tubing part of the main piece. Bond the unit to the leg using wheel pressure from the mounted caliper to hold it in place - use clamps as necessary on the ends. This means mounting the unit to the leg with all parts assembled, in line and tightened down as you will be using them. don't mount the thing if all angles are not perfect - work out the bugs before you do. Let the unit sit overnight to cure and you
should be ready to ride the next day. After mounting, any minor fudging
here and there can be made with spacers and minor homemade shims. I've
never had to do any additional shimming. From there, you can paint,
stripe, make some end caps to keep dirt out etc. OP Good Luck
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