K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: Simon on March 25, 2004, 08:31:44 am
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Just modified the cable/hose guides on my s/arm by making diagional slots,this enables me to remove the brake hose without having to split the hose from the banjo fitting [smiley=nod.gif],I was unable to remove the s/arm without having to split the hose from the banjo as the banjo won't fit through the guides [smiley=upset.gif],I regularly strip out the pivots to keep a check on the modified pivots I'm running,didn't like the idea of constantly splitting the hose,wish I could take credit for such a simple idea but first saw it used by Hope on one of there hose guides [smiley=laughing.gif],if no pic's attached there's a couple in my gallery.Simon.
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/Simon/Phto104.jpg)
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/Simon/Phto105.jpg)
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Wow. What a simple, yet schweet idea! Thanks for sharing.
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Nice Simon. Did you use a round file? Looks sculpted.
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Hey Simon. I was inspired by your modification when you posted the bearing conversion. I am making one of my own with the dimensions you provided. With those polished plans you made I was easily able to sway one of my friends to make me one. He got the concept quickly.
I was wondering how you like them so far. Ihave a 4500 like yours. The Only difrence is your aluminium swingarm instead of my carbon version. I hope that won't be a problem. What is the reason you went with the aluminium swingarm. I hope it was only for the disc brake adapter option and not for dimensional issues.
Also how tight are your tolerences. Do the NSK bearings you have press on tight or do they slip on freely. If I may ask the same question about the shaft and bushing area. Is it tight aswell.
Anyway the hose guides look good. What do you have next in store for your 4500.
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Nice Simon. Did you use a round file? Looks sculpted.
Hi Scott,quite right,started with a small saw then finished with a small round file,just finished off by eye,Simon.
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Hey Simon. I was inspired by your modification when you posted the bearing conversion. I am making one of my own with the dimensions you provided. With those polished plans you made I was easily able to sway one of my friends to make me one. He got the concept quickly.
I was wondering how you like them so far. Ihave a 4500 like yours. The Only difrence is your aluminium swingarm instead of my carbon version. I hope that won't be a problem. What is the reason you went with the aluminium swingarm. I hope it was only for the disc brake adapter option and not for dimensional issues.
Also how tight are your tolerences. Do the NSK bearings you have press on tight or do they slip on freely. If I may ask the same question about the shaft and bushing area. Is it tight aswell.
Anyway the hose guides look good. What do you have next in store for your 4500.
Hi ionit,the diamensions for a carbon s/arm are exactly the same,I have done the same conversion to ProflexGB's Oz with a carbon s/arm so you'll have no problems there,I went with a AL s/arm purely to stiffen up the rear end laterally thats all,plus just to do it,the shaft should pass through the frame with light hand pressure,likewise the bearings and shims should slide on the shaft with light pressure,if not clean up the shaft with some fine rubbing down paper till they do,the only change I've made is to use 4 M2 wide shims instead of the origional 2 M2 & 4 M1 wide shims,my only caution is before assembly make sure the M8X20 bolts screw into the shaft right up untill the bolt flange butts up against the shaft,this ensures the bearings will be securelly clamped on final assembly,when fitting torque to 20lbs ft (not origional 25) against each other,also the pivot pinch bolts only need to lightly tightened otherwise they could damage the bearings,don't forget for this conversion the s/arm pivots have to be machined out to accommadate the bearings (no going back when this is done,unless I suppose a sleeve could be made)
Next project,workout the torque on the pivot pinch bolts,mearsure the gap left and make an infill shim,then I can tighten the pinch bolts safely knowing the bearings aren't being damaged and the bolts are tight,
Also looking into a custom floating caliper system of my own.
Simon.
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Thanks That is good to know.
Turns out my Friend in the Moulding business Didn't quite get the concept afterall. I hate it when people say they understand somthing when really they're not sure. No worries. It's wasn't a misunderstanding of the dimensional diagrame that you made. It was a miscomunication on our part. He thought the bearings were inside the frame instead of on the s/arm. It should work out anyway all he got accompilish was tapping both ends. I managed to tell him what was what on time.