K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: Gregman on August 09, 2003, 08:39:49 am
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I have an OZM and the pivot is making some really annoying creaking only when I crank and not when its just moving up and down. Its not exactly BB creaking it sounds more like the pivot parts are just worn or maybe the just the Quad-rings need replacing. I took the pivot all apart a few weeks ago and serviced it and that might have made things worse. I followed the PDF from the K2 forum but its creaking so bad now that it sounds like its gonna just fall apart.
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Check the dropouts and the s/arm pivots too see if they have come loose in the s/arm, its common for them to come loose and require rebonding in, I've had to do 3 of mine and I know some have rebonded all of theirs,I take it that the creaking was occuring before you serviced the pivots?I've not heard off Oz pivots creaking,you have adjusted the bushes correctly and not over tightened them (set the s/arm pivot pinch bolts with the wheel removed) the s/arm should drop smoothly under its own weight, also check the how to's op has put in some de-creaking techniques in there worth checking out,Simon [smiley=nod.gif]
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Simon - Thanks for your reply!
If the dropouts are loose, how exactly do you re-bond them? By the way - is there any place on the forum that has torque specs for everything? I have a Park TW-2 wrench and wanna get everything set to factory specs after I take it apart again for cleaning. By the way - I did go through OP's creaking list but that didnt help out. The reason that I took it apart in the first place was that it was creaking badly and I figured that this would solve my problem and not make it worse.
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Go to the 3rd from top post on page 1 of the forum and follow the advice given to me when I first had this problem(Re- bonding carbon)check out the files page for info on the settings you require or go to wwwk2bike.com and look in there files and owners manuals you should be able to find and download all you require,Simon
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I have a carbon with a pivot that'll creak at about 6 month intervals-that's my "check engine" audio clue. Once though the creak showed up about 3 months early-went and serviced every known-at least to me-creak maker only to eventually finda pair of loose 2mm allen bolts at the r. d. hanger. Needless to say they went back clean and coated with blue loctite!
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crank down that main pivot bolt to 225 - 250 inch pounds on a torque wrench then give it a try.
sometimes that creaking comes from the removable metal pivot facings on the main triangle body and not the swingarm / facing junction. the main pivot bolt holds it all together like a sandwich, any looseness can cause creaking.
download the old 98 manual from the files here in this site and it'll have all the torque specs. that 175 for the cross bolt was later changed to 225 in the k2 literature.
did you check your bottom bracket - sometimes the unit needs regreasing, specially on the right side at the fixed cup. (sounds identical to the swingarm creak)
OP
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I think all proflex and K2 riders have had this problem you can fix this by using one drop of low strength Loctite preferably "Loctite 222MS Threadlocker". On the removable treaded pivot. one drop is important. As the saying goes less is more.
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crank down that main pivot bolt to 225 - 250 inch pounds on a torque wrench then give it a try.
sometimes that creaking comes from the removable metal pivot facings on the main triangle body and not the swingarm / facing junction. the main pivot bolt holds it all together like a sandwich, any looseness can cause creaking.
download the old 98 manual from the files here in this site and it'll have all the torque specs. that 175 for the cross bolt was later changed to 225 in the k2 literature.
OP
so when did they do that? and why? j/curious...would you set the swing arm pinch bolts with the tire on for that, then? i know there's been some conflicting literature from k2 on that one, also.
sorry if this has been discussed haven't been on the board for a week.
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i set the pinch bolts with the wheels off
http://k2bikes.com/tech_library/service_manuals/98evo.pdf
the rk008 service manual instructions are different than those posted in the original manuals - now shows 250 for the crossbolt - (probably from all the creaking issues)
i don't loctite anything on my bikes - i do use a little thread sealer (clear nail polish left to dry on the threads b4 reinstalling)
i had the creaking derailler hanger one time too - i cut a thin black plastic garbage bag and inserted 'tween the hanger and the frame and cut off the excess.
OP
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Read once along time ago I think on the old k2 tech force forum, the tech doctor (as I believe he was called) recommended that if any play developed between the bonded pivot insert in the frame and the locating stub on the pivot bearing (eg the bearings have run loose in the frame insert causing some wear) you could re-assemble with a drop of loctite bearing fit in the insert/bearing stub interface to take up the play,(obviously ensuring none gets on the bearings/bushes) just though I'd mention it, not my idea, never had a pivot problem, no idea how this would affect future maintance either bearing fit is quite strong.Simon [smiley=blankstare.gif]
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well - I have started to take my OZM apart and the drive side crank bolt simply will not budge. It has finally stripped out the 8mm socket and it looks like I might have to drill it out. This is gonna be fun - oh boy. O have been told by some LBS's to use a heat gun to heat up the XT crank arm and loose the lube but I would think that would be really bad with a thermolplastic frame
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you could use a dremel to get it off, too.
maybe there are better ways?
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might first try stopping in at a sears or a good hardware store - some of the new gadgets out these days to remove stuck bolts or those with stripped heads, are pretty impressive
OP
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good point OP!!!! Bob Vila might have something that he is pushing on tv that lord only know might work. The sockets with the little bars/rods inside them to remove stripped bolts looks pretty cool.
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Hopefully Bob Vila can deliver the right tool: Amazing Discovery's Mike can't anymore... I saw in the newspaper this morning he died yesterday (or the day before, I don't know)...
Mike would have had a special amazing discovery to do the job, I know for sure!
A last salute (to the man who made me laugh so much every time I came home after a night with lots of [smiley=beer.gif]) seems the least I can do.
Jeroen.
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UPDATE - all those Bob Vila thinks wont work in this situation. The socket with all the little metal rods in it to use on stripped bolts has two problems. First - the diameter of the socket is larger then the diameter of the recessed hole on the XT crank arm and second, the Gator as it is actually called doesnt work on bolts that are round in shape like a crank arm bolt is on the outside.
So I had to use my Dremel and here where it goty really messy. Dremels like to jump around a lot and it jumped around so much that the threads on the inside of the crank arm got so ground that the crank extractor would no linger thread in. So I was forced to have to cut off the drive side crank arm which is not a fun thing to do. I just kept using the Dremel and cutting away until my hammer was able to smack it loose. All is well now and I am installing a new BB because the old one's splines were chopped by the dremmel, and a new set of XT cranks being installed.