K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: royboycv on April 02, 2013, 01:35:12 pm
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O.K. here we go ,the main reason is that if the two pivot axle (left and right )are not done up tight enough ,the pivot axles will move ,making the counter bores in the frame out of round ,as in the second set of pics, (not too clear )
http://imageshack.us/a/img515/5678/proflex2006.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img515/5678/proflex2006.jpg)
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/3097/photo0272au.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img197/3097/photo0272au.jpg)
This is shown in the black marks on the frame ,plus the axle pivot will move around in the counter bore in the frame and not a firm fit .
The nexst two pics are the original parts ,there will be marks on all mating faces (frame and pivot)
http://imageshack.us/a/img89/700/proflex2003.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img89/700/proflex2003.jpg)
http://imageshack.us/a/img521/2856/proflex2002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img521/2856/proflex2002.jpg)
One answer i think is to make two new pivot axles and use two needle roller bearings ( 4900 2rs, 22mm od X 14mmID X 13mm long ,£9-£20 each )
the next pics are of all thats needed !
http://imageshack.us/a/img32/6578/proflex2004.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img32/6578/proflex2004.jpg)
To answer your questions ,yes i am an engineer (cnc programmer miller )
and yes i am lucky enough to have a small lathe and mill at home .
If any body would like more info ,or drawings let me know.
I think i have rambled on too much and need a rest
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some further specs would be handy. I also have a small Prazi lathe and mill in the garage with which to make swarf. That and beating tin into submission pleases me.
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Right here goes , the bearing you will be using will not have an inner shaft sleeve hence the need to harden the pivot axles, if you can try this out in ali first (just in case !) it might be best , from the drawing below make two of the components one with an M6 taped hole and one with a 6.1mm through hole ,the material you use must be hardend ,you can use silver steel and heat treat it your self . the 14mm dia MUST BE A GOOD SIZE the needle roller bearing will run on it. O.K. ? The 9.2mm dia is to fit in your frame in the counter bore ,this needs to be a tight fit ,it does not want to go in ,make sure the counter bore for the cap head bolt is O.K. (10.2mm dia X 6mm deep ).TO fit the new pivot axles thay must fit through the eye of the swinging arm (hence the 21.8mm dia ). Now the axle pivots have been heat treated (or not ). with a heat gun heat up the pivot mount of the frame ,till it is hot to the touch ,do not burn the paint !This sould expand the frame enough so the new pivot axles will fit all be tight ,with thread lock on the M6 bolt, do the bolt up tight while the frame is still hot ,( PLEASE MAKR SURE YOU HAVE FITTED THESE THROUGH THE EYES OF THE SWINGING ARM) .And yes the yellow round parts are the plastic thrust washers ,i would think you could make these from a milk carton or some thing like ,place two plastic thrust washers in each side ,now just slide the bearings in , do up the pinch bolts ,the jobs a good one ,good luck all let me know if you need any more info .
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/703/drag001.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img843/703/drag001.jpg)
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Awesome and thanks for sharing.
Chris
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some further specs would be handy. I also have a small Prazi lathe and mill in the garage with which to make swarf. That and beating tin into submission pleases me.
:D