K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: 02gf74 on June 20, 2011, 12:13:07 am
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here is the adapter trmmed to save some weight, painted black and fitted to frame.
rides great and I think it reduces flex in the back too.
got the shock at 180 psi which gives a firm rear end, maybe too firm so need to tune it in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/02GF74/DSC07436.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/02GF74/DSC07437.jpg)
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Looks great!
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Can I have one too?
that looks brilliant mate nice job.
Cheers, Tel.
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Looks fantastic
You could make a few dollars from this if you wanted you know
Any plans to offer some for sale? I know I'd be willing to buy one
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I would deffinatly buy one!! Would help upgrade my 856 an absolute treat!!
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Ryan 856 - PM'ed you - it will happen so just a matter of waiting for the part to be made up. will let you know when done.
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Show me a picture of the other side of the adaptor please. or better yet unfitted.
Have you used a bolt through it or have you threaded the adaptor to fix the shock eye?
Did you make it with a split collet cone shape to fit into the strut? or is it flat?
Nice piece of work.
Col.
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Show me a picture of the other side of the adaptor please. or better yet unfitted.
you'll find the answere here (click me!) ([url]http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?topic=3693.0[/url])
Have you used a bolt through it or have you threaded the adaptor to fix the shock eye?
Bolt through using countersunk head M6 ... I suppose I could have tapped the hole but if the eyelet did not align (which it does) then I wold have had to reshape the hole .......
Did you make it with a split collet cone shape to fit into the strut? or is it flat?
I designed it and a near neighbour makes it. Not flat - that would rely on the bolt keeping it together and the bolt would be in shear so definitely a point of faiilure. The cone is part of the adapter.
Nice piece of work.
thanks
Col.
better view of cone :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v383/02GF74/XP8%20rear%20Shock%20Adapter/DSC07413.jpg)
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That is a 165mm shock, and should have around 38mm stroke, correct?
Isn't the stroke too small for the bike?
Noleens had around 50mm stroke, and the problem on making an adapter for a x57 frame is exactly geometry VS stroke of the shock, as a 165mm shock would be nice, but short in stroke.
A 190mm shock will change the geometry.
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could you run the 190 with a bit more sag?
By the way I`d still love one of these as my old Noleen is getting a bit baggy.
Cheers, Tel.
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But surely using a 165mm shock or a 190mm with more sag (making it 165mm) will still give the same amount of travel. Its either less travel or steeper geometry.
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But with more sag, is it possible for the shock to bottom out easily?
It's not easy to make an adapter that fits a 190mm shock.
I think I will make a very short one made of stainless steel and keep the 190mm shock. As it will be short, the material needs to be stronger than aluminum.
I prefer a higher volume chamber (since this geometry works with lower pressures) than a small chamber.
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Hey Whisper, you are right on making the adapter from stainless. I use a 190 shock and actually got it into the hole where the cone sits, and the shock works perfect. A little higher than that and I think you will be fine.
Here is an old photo showing the shock mounted. I set the sag at 20%.
(http://old.villagephotos.com/image.asp?id_=23086071)
Terry
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Hi Terry.
I can't see the photo, but didn't you had yours locked between two plates welded in the strut?
I went to a bike builder nearby, but he didn't want to touch the original strut.
He proposed to make a new strut made with an Easton BB part (the one that is welded in the back of the BB and opens to the chainstays) he uses there.
It's a very hefty part (looks almost from a DH bike) and I didn't like the solution.
To keep the geometry, the shock eye should go inside the strut. If it stays above the strut with an adapter, I fear it will change too much the geometry, and every body knows how sometimes the crosslinks appears to throw you over the bars...
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distance of the semi-circular cut out to bottom is 16 mm so that in theory is the maximum amount you can drop the shock so you are still 10 mm out .... but I don't think there is enough metal to do that.
the alternative is to move the top eyelet inthe frame, as was done on S size frame but the shock would need to be fitted upside down.
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If upside down, the shock body will hit the frame.
At least on my large frames it will!!!
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Did i miss the chance to order one of these beauties ? ;)
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If upside down, the shock body will hit the frame.
At least on my large frames it will!!!
you must be using a different shock coz the flox float, as per my first photo, is thinner at the bottom so should not have any problems with hiting the frame when mounted upside down.
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If upside down, the shock body will hit the frame.
At least on my large frames it will!!!
you must be using a different shock coz the flox float, as per my first photo, is thinner at the bottom so should not have any problems with hiting the frame when mounted upside down.
Yes, I was talking about a Manitou Swinger 3way.
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I be interested in one of the shock adapters for my 98 beast. Getting a few problems with the noleen, had nitrogen recharge but has harsh top out and rebound doesnt work. Can you pm me some info
Thanks
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Howdy:
weightweenies forum MTB thread on a lefty linkage fork mentioned a Proflex forum. found this. Profile indicates main interest. Front shock has lost all rebound damping and has no jounce at start of travel...so embarassing clanking as it tops out. With, of course, crappy trail holding.
Noleen warantee rebuilt the rear early on, and it may still be normal. Re-installed with a piece of wide inner tube cut to a rectangular shape. Wrapped this sheet around top end of shock and held in place by wrapping its top with stretched black PVC electrical tape. Sheet flares out and is contact cemented (DAP Weldwood) to top ends of fork legs. This shields the whole shock very well from junk thrown off rear tire, but will drain if anything gets in, and allows access to damping adjustment collar.
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I be interested in one of the shock adapters for my 98 beast. Getting a few problems with the noleen, had nitrogen recharge but has harsh top out and rebound doesnt work. Can you pm me some info
the man with the tools is in process of making up a numebr of these adapters (poissible as many as 3 depending on the amount of alloy bar left).
I need to check my pm here but all 3 have been "reserved" - if one should fall through then you would be next in the queue.
Note that kit comprises 3 bushes and the adapter for Fox float shock conversion to a Proflex XP-8 and 756 series of bikes (someone correct me if I am wrong here), XL, L and M frames - S frame may not fit the shock unless it is fitted upside down.
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That is a 165mm shock, and should have around 38mm stroke, correct?
Isn't the stroke too small for the bike?
Noleens had around 50mm stroke, and the problem on making an adapter for a x57 frame is exactly geometry VS stroke of the shock, as a 165mm shock would be nice, but short in stroke.
A 190mm shock will change the geometry.
I have had a Fox Float on my 5500 and have been constantly thinking about how to improve the design for about 6 years now. Just for clarification stroke effects how much travel it has, and length determines how high or low it sits. I definitely would go with a shock that has 50mm (2") of stroke if that is what the stock shock had. Now all you need to do is subtract the proper amount of sag for the bike from the stock length of the shock and you have what I'll refer to as the ride height number. Now, you take the length of the new shock plus or minus length added or taken away by the adapter, then subtract the ride height number and you have your new sag number. The goal is to pick a shock length that works with the numbers so that you get a sag number that makes the new shock happy, and the bike happy as well.
My 7 7/8" (200mm) X 2" (50mm) likes a 1/2" (12.7mm) of sag. The stock sag in the back of the 5500c is 8mm, so I built my adapter to make the shock effectively 5mm longer, and I set my sag to 13mm in the back. Since the stock Noleens didn't get a true 2" of stroke, I actually got more travel at the rear wheel, and with the greater amount of sag more of it could be used in the negative travel giving me better traction overall. I have since determined that an 8.5" rear shock will just bolt in and would provide for a stiffer rear end (which others have done many times). The older floats wouldn't fit, but the new designs will fit upside down. Finding spacers has been a problem though, and the shock is about 1000 miles away from the bike.
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Is there any chance of getting hold of one of these or similar as my old noleen has just got headache and packed up forever and its looking like I may be proflexless for some time to come. any help much apreciated.
Cheers, Tel.
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Sorry Tel, were you asking me or 02gf74?
I assume you meant me if you were talking about the Noleen then you were referring to me. After the race on the 15th I am willing to send you my current iteration that I've been riding for years while I work on the new version. That way you can report to the forum on how well it does or doesn't work, and decide if you want to invest in the new setup when I get done. Now my new mount won't cost much, but the shock and the cost of custom tuning will add up.
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Hi jazclrint, its all become a little irrelevent for a little while as some piece of%$ has just helped themselves to the tools on my van and replacing those will need to be my priority for a while, thanks though mate, I ve been a member here for many years and look in most days though I post very infrequently, but I`m always impressed by the help the good people on here are always willing to give to folk.
Many thanks mate, Tel.
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Tel, You said the Noleen has got a headache and packed-up - are we talking "doesn't work at all" or simply "isn't very good"...if its the former and it'll help i've got an old N-2 you could have to keep you going? Just shout and i'll get it in the post. Hope the theiving feck-wits that stole your tools hurt themselves with them.
regards
Timbo