K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: superhondaman on November 15, 2009, 01:56:06 am
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I am looking into doing this on my 955 and if i go ahead with it will get a small quantity of alloy shafts and spacers made (5-10) this is far more economical than having one made. I will sell these on to forum members at my cost price plus p+p. Please give me some indication if yoy are interested i need definate yes's so i can order them. NOTE this is just for the shaft & spacers you will have to source bearings and bolts from your local suppliers although i could enquire about getting the bearings if struggling to get them. Also you will hav to get the s/arm reamed out.
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Not going to say I am definitely interested, but can you let me know what the price is? Can make my mind up then.
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Is 955 same as an 856?
Terry
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Count me in for a set or two...I have the conversion on my 4000 and it's awesome.
- Doug
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Is 955 same as an 856?
Terry
Yes
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Ok i will investigate further and get a price for a batch of 5 and a batch of 10,
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Ok i have been in touch with my engineer friend and its no problem to do the shafts but not until next spring at the earliest! i needed to get mine done sooner than that but will wait due to the fact that he will do a first class job. Anyway i have traced some K2 RK002 s/arm bearing kits in the states which are about a fiver but the postage is £12.00 so if i get a few of these sent does anyone want any? it seems to make sense to get 4 or 5 kits to cover postage costs, what do you think? This will do me until i do the conversion.
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Wil the shafts that you are having made work with an OZ? I am in the UK and would like to do this conversion , but the engineers I asked wanted £50 to make 1 shaft , as the time to program the CNC machine , plus lathe time is high for just 1 item.
If yes ,then i would be interested in a shaft and bearing kit
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I know that the shafts Simon made for me are interchangeable between my 957 and Oz. Whether the 856 would be included I don't know.
Terry
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Though I had a very cooperative machinist do the kit for my 4000, I bet this would be an excellent project for eMachineShop.com (http://www.emachineshop.com). Basically you download their pared down 3D modeling software, draft the object, submit it (can be created using different machining processes and materials) and then receive a quote for various quantities. I would have input the specs myself, but I'm a total newbie to 3D modeling and have only a dangerous amount of knowledge and skill when it comes to machining.
Anyone interested in taking on the project?
- Doug :-)
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I have e mailed the drawings to another engineer i know and will let you know his reply asap
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856 Shaft is different to the Oz/4500/5500 shaft both drawings are available in the sticky page everything else is the same.
I may be in Camp bastion Afghnistan but I still keep an eye on you lot :D :D
I should of patented this ::)
Simon
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Hi Simon,
Keep your head down out there mate!
I bumped into a guy who knew you the other day. He had an OZ and you made him up an axle . He works in Gosport for UKBikestore . Unfortunatly I didn't get his name , but he was helpfull in sorting me out anIS PM adapter as I have fitted some AM3's in 140mm guise to mine now.
He has semi retired his OZ now, but recommended the bearing conversion, especially as we were both running 55mm stroke shocks, mine SPV air, and his a 5th element.
Rob
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Hi Simon,
A couple of questions on your sealed bearing conversion.
I see you mention about drilling out the internal threads of the shaft a little bit to allow the bolt to fully mate flush to the end of the shaft.
This is obviously because bolts are rarely threaded right up to the head, right?
So why don't you just use a washer or another Shim there?
That also saves having to find flanged Bolts doesn't it?
Also, I assume the reaming is necessary because you couldn't source 22mm Dia Bearings, I haven't looked but do they not exist?
Not criticism, just questions for me to better understand what is an excellent piece of work.
Col.
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Colin
everything you've said is correct.
I couldn't source any 22mm bearings that I felt would be upto the job, the inside dia was to small so the shaft would of had to of been to small.Also I liked the idea of larger bearings.
The Ti flange bol bolt was just me pimping it up a bit, a steel 8.8 grade screw with washer would work perfectly well and yes the drilling of the threads are exactly as you point out.
Simon
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Colin
everything you've said is correct.
I couldn't source any 22mm bearings that I felt would be upto the job, the inside dia was to small so the shaft would of had to of been to small.Also I liked the idea of larger bearings.
The Ti flange bol bolt was just me pimping it up a bit, a steel 8.8 grade screw with washer would work perfectly well and yes the drilling of the threads are exactly as you point out.
Simon
Great!
Is this a suitable reamer do you think?
(http://i3.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/48/6d/5d_1_b.JPG)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260370457778 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260370457778)
21.28MM-- 23.78MM so a little bit shy of 24mm but maybe OK?
Col.
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If you're going to do one, or even multiple swingarms, it's definitely worth it to buy a reamer, I found. I had my 4000 swingarm reamed at my local machine shop, and left there feeling reamed myself ($80 lighter). Had I known in advance I probably would have bought one.
I'd contribute some cash for one if I could borrow it once the spindle kits are ready (if that's still in the works). Ideally it would be in the US, though, as international shipping rates on something that heavy would make it less of a deal.
- Doug :-)
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I was $250 lighter when I had my swingarm and a fork upper mount reamed out. So if possible, it would be better to buy one.
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(http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/3027ap1l.gif)
You need something like Simon has. This is the best I could muster.
Adjustable reamer with pilot found at McmasterCarr.
Terry
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([url]http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/115/gfx/large/3027ap1l.gif[/url])
You need something like Simon has. This is the best I could muster.
Adjustable reamer with pilot found at McmasterCarr.
Terry
My suggestion looks similar?
what does the pilot do?
Col.
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The pilot keeps the side you are reaming straight with the other side.
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aaaahh, I was planning to ream through from the non done side to the side being done to maintain concentricity either by eye or using some sort of spacers.
Col.
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(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g110/wbrosselle/reamerpilot.jpg)
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Hi Simon,
Keep your head down out there mate!
I bumped into a guy who knew you the other day. He had an OZ and you made him up an axle . He works in Gosport for UKBikestore . Unfortunatly I didn't get his name , but he was helpfull in sorting me out anIS PM adapter as I have fitted some AM3's in 140mm guise to mine now.
He has semi retired his OZ now, but recommended the bearing conversion, especially as we were both running 55mm stroke shocks, mine SPV air, and his a 5th element.
Rob
That would be Mark Spruce (Sprucey on this site) he'sone of the good guys I recommend his store to anyone. Simon
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([url]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g110/wbrosselle/reamerpilot.jpg[/url])
Thats the reamer I use and as you can see the tapered pilot keeps both sides alined.
It can be tricky, I use a smaller reamer to start and work up remember take your time only ream a very little at a time.
Simon
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When converting to sealed bearings, is it only the swingarm that needs to be reemed?
Does any modification need to be made to the mainframe?
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Yes, just swingarm machining. Nothing to the frame.