K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: Thunderchild on September 27, 2009, 11:20:43 pm
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Recently, I thought my chain line was moving lateral a bit when I would crank on my Oz. With the Oz in the work stand, I tried pushing the crank in and pulling away from the bike. Sure enough a little extra play. :( I removed the cranks and inspected the BB shell. The drive side of the BB shell has separated from the body a tad :'( . I think it just started raining outside too; surely not a harbinger...
Now that you have all gone and checked your Ozzies, anyone ever have this problem and know if this is fixable? A job for epoxy man? The non drive side looks intact. How would I remove the shell??? I have been riding my Oz since 2003 and she has 11300+ miles on her. She is too young to mount above the fire place!!
:( :'( >:( :( :'( >:(
Thunderchild
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mine is exactly the same - it made an ear-wretching squeel as I pedalled in the SingleSpeed UK champs this year - so much so that riders were letting me past and letting me get ahead a bit !!
of course, in singlespeed - one puts a massive torque through the BB. Although, as an aside I had been jumping the bike pissed the night before and had also ridden across a dance floor...
I haven't looked at it in detail to see how to fix it. so any ideas welcome. I can actually see a gap between the BB shell and the frame.
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I had that happen too. I creaked like rusty door hinge every time I pedaled on the drive side. Turned out the epoxy broke loose from the threaded pivot face insert. I ended up JBwelding it back in.
See if you can unthread it some more after taking off the swingarm. I think it was spokes that had pictures of his frame without the inserts, and the threads were colored red. That is when I agreed to take a look at mine and dicovered the loose insert
Terry
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made an ear-wretching squeel as I pedalled in the SingleSpeed UK champs this year - so much so that riders were letting me past and letting me get ahead a bit !!
:D :D :D
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I had that happen too. I creaked like rusty door hinge every time I pedaled on the drive side. Turned out the epoxy broke loose from the threaded pivot face insert. I ended up JBwelding it back in.
See if you can unthread it some more after taking off the swingarm. I think it was spokes that had pictures of his frame without the inserts, and the threads were colored red. That is when I agreed to take a look at mine and dicovered the loose insert
Terry
Terry are you just talking about the swingarm pivot or are you saying the BB shell is threaded into the frame? I am thinking that I have to get the BB shell out in order to try and use epoxy to secure it back into the frame. Maybe I could try and force the JB weld into the BB-frame separation with a flexible flat blade... Any other ideas...anyone?
Thunderchild
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It is not the pivot, but the pivot face insert holder that threads into the BB shell. There should be 2 spanner holes in it.
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Skoddy was the one with the problems.
See here.
http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?topic=2905.0
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/pivot3.jpg)
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No it wasnt me with the problem, thankfully!
Chris
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The separation between the bottom bracket shell and the frame body is so small that I am not sure I can push enough epoxy into it to make a difference. Anyone remember if that old list member who split his Oz frame a few years ago, to make a mold or something, revealed how the bottom bracket shell is secured in the frame? Could it be a sleeve in a sleeve like the seatpost tube?
Thunderchild
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The separation between the bottom bracket shell and the frame body is so small that I am not sure I can push enough epoxy into it to make a difference. Anyone remember if that old list member who split his Oz frame a few years ago, to make a mold or something, revealed how the bottom bracket shell is secured in the frame? Could it be a sleeve in a sleeve like the seatpost tube?
Thunderchild
That would be Dominic.
If you unscrew the part out, lather it up with goo, you can rethread it in and it should be tight.
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If you unscrew the part out, lather it up with goo, you can rethread it in and it should be tight.
As in your pictures, you are talking about the swing arm pivot. I am talking about the bottom bracket shell. I don't think it is threaded on its outside and screwed into the frame. I will post a picture soon.
Thunderchild
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If you unscrew the part out, lather it up with goo, you can rethread it in and it should be tight.
As in your pictures, you are talking about the swing arm pivot. I am talking about the bottom bracket shell. I don't think it is threaded on its outside and screwed into the frame. I will post a picture soon.
Thunderchild
Doh! Right you are.
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Haha! funnily enough I was about to post something about a surprising gain in BB rigidity.
My BB shell started really drifting around recently, I was convinced I'd have to get a new frame.
Then I thought what the hell! If it's dead I've nothing to lose.
The play was so bad you could see the gap moving when pushing the cranks side to side by hand.
So off came the drive side crank, I put the bike on its side and working the left crank to "flex" the play, I poured in about half a tube of good old fashioned SUPER GLUE.
It was the only glue that I could think of that was runny enough for such a small gap, and it penetrated brilliantly.
Now that was last week and I've only done about 300km on it since then but it feels like a whole new bike.
Amazing stiffness down at the cranks (well, for a 5500 anyway)
So yes, super glue runny, NOT the gel.
Happy gluing, just watch your fingers, I have a perfect thumbprint glued next to the BB now
L
Now I have to find the dicky cell in my battery pack, my NR Blowtorch went out at full tilt down a really exciting singletrack last noght...
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The separation between the bottom bracket shell and the frame body is so small that I am not sure I can push enough epoxy into it to make a difference. Anyone remember if that old list member who split his Oz frame a few years ago, to make a mold or something, revealed how the bottom bracket shell is secured in the frame? Could it be a sleeve in a sleeve like the seatpost tube?
Thunderchild
Here's a diagram of the carbon frame guts!
http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf (http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf)
Col.
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I'm going to try this on my Oz and see if I can get it back on the road. Will let you know the results.
callum
rds
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Here's a diagram of the carbon frame guts!
[url]http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf[/url] ([url]http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf[/url])
Col.
Thanks Colin, You are da man once again. Do you know if the bottom bracket pieces in the diagram are the final product or is a tube epoxied into the sleeve as with the seat post tube? If there is no additional sleeve, I could possible drill a couple of small holes around the bb to allow epoxy to be injected into the frame. Unless, I had to fill up the entire cavity around the bb.
I like the super glue idea. Keep us updated Luke.
Thunderchild
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Here's a diagram of the carbon frame guts!
[url]http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf[/url] ([url]http://idriders.com/proflex/resources/carbon_tech_sheet.pdf[/url])
Col.
Thanks Colin, You are da man once again. Do you know if the bottom bracket pieces in the diagram are the final product or is a tube epoxied into the sleeve as with the seat post tube? If there is no additional sleeve, I could possible drill a couple of small holes around the bb to allow epoxy to be injected into the frame. Unless, I had to fill up the entire cavity around the bb.
I like the super glue idea. Keep us updated Luke.
Thunderchild
Sorry, I don't know.
Looking at my spare frame it looks nothing like any of the info on here!
The pivot faces do not have pin spanner holes and neither does the BB Shell, which looks like a single piece of aluminium with the BB threads cut into it.
confused,,,,,,,
Col.
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Yes according to the picture there's another part screwed into the BB shell.
I can safely say for having really poked around and tried to get a blade down between the shell and the carbon, there is a flange of some sort against the inside wall of the carbon.
Whether it's a machined flange onto which the carbon is pressed, or a flange of epoxy to which the carbon is supposed to adhere I can't tell.
My BB was really mobile, I'm convinced there is no way you could slide the shell out to reglue it properly.
So that contradicts the diagram a little.
I reckon they just left out a few details so others wouldn't nick ideas.
Did a storming 35 km climb (1180m vertical off-road in 1H35) up a disused railway track yesterday; lumpy, bumpy, fast, just why I love my 5500. BB still good.
Can't say the same for my lungs this morning though... :P
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Here is a link to a picture of my Oz's bottom bracket with the separation from frame.
http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=1 (http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=1)
Thunderchild
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I see now that the carbon area is actually cracked. Do you think epoxy can bond it?
Terry
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Ohhh is everyone talking about epoxy ??
Yumm....... ::)
Can I split ur frame......mad axe man at the ready ;)
No worries m8
I can repair this for you.
What I need to know is where do you live.
I'll jump on my Zed and pop over.
Those two caps screw onto the main BB housing with the baffle between the two casings.
You wont be able to seperte the frame and I dont advise you to attempt to.
There is an epoxy out there called one ton.
You could try East coast fibreglass supplies in the UK contact them and get advice.
The BB shell housing has a top hat effect on both sides .
The trouble is that when the epoxy breaks loose the face of the epoxy is very shiny, so any new substance poured in may in time break loose, and it will become harder to pour in more two pack epoxy if you have already poured in super glue.
Its only my opinion but I advise you not to apply super glue.
I have spare inserts that I have been buying up, and will did one out and take a piccy so you can see what I mean.