K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: AmandaHanna on March 06, 2009, 06:21:35 am
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Hi its been some time since ive been on here. But with spring here i now have the itch to tinker and upgrade the forks on my proflex 4500. I have not a clue what to put on the bike right now I mainly commute because there are no trails in the area but Im move to Idaho this summer and want to get the bike ready ;) I wanna know what you run I dont think I need anything with crazy travel my weight is 130lbs.. Just some ideas would help me out thanks ;D
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what fork do you have on it currently?
i think you have to decide what features you want on a fork, say 3-4", 3-5" or just 4" of travel and go from there.
any of the higher end, they're all good but some of the best features can be found on the mid range forks.
generally, you get what you pay for.
i've an old psylo sl that i repainted and stickered that works as well as any with 3-5" of travel adjustable and full adjustablility for compression and rebound including compression lock.
these we about $200 discounted new and the can be bought used for cheap.
my neighbor sold his old gt with a good psylo sl on the front for a $100.
(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_Img_0080.jpg)(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_Img_0079.jpg)
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Old Proflexer
Im going to say mid range 3-5 . Right now I still have the factory fork on my 4500 it seems heavy ! I need one that works better . With some forks from what I understand you need to upgrade to disc brakes also.. is that correct? I was looking at a fork like yours but I wasnt sure if it would work on my bike with out converting my brakes. Thanks for your help
(http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/3/W/2b0000000435445b/1/52/Sr6kuBsn7z8C7DucveomXgKKdNfXpkMr.jpg) (http://www.slide.com/s/ct0jA0Ka3T-NwGOE6GedDChT-oDF5bDu?referrer=hlnk)
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yes you'll need to make sure the forks have the mounts for v-brakes. Fewer forks these days have them as so many people use disc. You could upgrade to disc on the front, but that would mean changing your wheel too for a disc version (and buying a disc brake!).
If those are your forks, they are Crosslinks and pretty light even by modern standards - are you sure you want to change them? You could just remove the smartshock bit (not sure what removing this involves - but it does add some weight to the forks)
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AmandaHanna,
i think I remember when you "stole" this bike for a song off someone who didn't know any better? Well Done! <GRIN>
Are you still as small as you were then and still wearing the pink helmet? <GRIN>
(http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/3/W/28000000036f728b/1/233/oiULI1Qq0j9QAjpEPPn0ZU0xVQP4V5y5.jpg)
How's it been going since then? Ridden it much?
I think I mentioned then that the Crosslinks are one of the lightest pairs of suspension forks going! something like 3.9lbs in weight! (with a Smart Shock), {a "dumb shock weighs about 150g less}.
Did you ever get the NR-5 working electrically? It doesn't matter if you didn't as it will just revert to the same as a standard "dumb" shock.
I suppose that if you want a light commuter bike then you have to accept that a full suspension bike will always be heavier, but hey! you are riding one of the best bikes from the turn of the Century and retailed for crazy prices back then!
On my "To Do" list is to build my Mrs a 26lb Oz (4500) to replace her 40lb Monster!
Yours shouldn't weigh much above 28lb? (If that)
I wonder if what you mean by "heavy" is that the forks don't bounce much?
Looking at that picture, I bet you've got a standard coil spring on it, which is usually a 200Lb spring, have a look and see if it says something like "NB2-200" on it.
That would suit someone who weighs 160 to 200lb!
You need a 150 or a 175 at the most. ( I went into this in more detail in a previous post)
Maybe the pre-load is cranked right up as well, so see if you can slacken the knurled ring off on top of the coil spring until it's loose and then just nip it up a half turn from first contact.
I expect the one on the rear is also over-rated for your weight, you need a 450 or 500 at the most.
Ask if someone on here has got front and rear ones to swap for yours, we can talk you through removing and refitting them.
IMHO you don't need disks until you find that a properly set up pair of V Brakes don't stop you quick enough...........
Col.
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well, if you're looking for a project, this one's my other:
(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_Front_Disc_Mount_closeup_finished~0.jpg)(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_4500_side_view.jpg)
made a few changes (rear shock and cut the seat post to flush) since the pic but that's still the basics
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Colin ~I have grown just a tad ;) Yes i did steal the bike :D I think I got the smart shock to work it lights up.. I really did not see any change in my ride. I have been riding it Ive only done 120 miles :-\ But I plan on riding a lot more this year. IM not sure what my bikes weight is I dont own a scale. lol I did change my stem and bars the other night and the bike seems lighter now... maybe i just didnt like the feel of the old stuff it had a 120mm stem so I went down to a 90mm. Thanks for all of the info!
Orange~ Thanks for the information. I think I may as well do all of the upgrades now... forks, brakes, wheels
Proflexer~ You bike looks great I really like your set up.
Im going to start shopping for parts
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OldProflexer: <droooooooooool>
Amanda: if you're looking for weight savings and perhaps more of an air fork feel you could just change out the stock Noleen coil spring/damper assembly for an air shock assembly, like a Risse Genesis. I use one on my 4000, and aside from a little stiction (which hopefully Risse will adjust for me) and my inability to dial in the air pressure I really like it...the air shock seems to make more of the travel distance more usable because the resistance doesn't seem to increase as quickly as the shock is compressing.
Plus, it's way light...and very purty! :-)
- Doug :-)
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big difference in weight between these two on the back end - both are nice for different reasons
have never used an air fork in the front tho'
(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_Fox_Float_Talas_Rear_Mounted.jpg)(http://idriders.com/proflex/coppermine/albums/userpics/10008/normal_mount%2520pic.jpg)
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I would put on a nice air fork, 100mm. My daughter has a manitou black on her bike, and it really works well for her. Has not lost any air in 2 years, and is smooth as butter for her.
Terry
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Sorry its been some time.. family came into town. But I did come across a deal i think...lol
(http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/4/S/2b000000057a5be5/1/142/BL_SZcjV5z_r362GGgrSmQoqZ93O-RTA.jpg) (http://www.slide.com/s/bIoXBMyMwj_-NJhSpC1fTSUE_gXBAr0u?referrer=hlnk)
I paid 60 bucks for the rim and fork. I thought I would give this fork a chance it is 100mm but im not sure on the brand.. the kid I got it off of works up at the bike shop. Its icky out so I might put the fork on today. If anyone has a clue on what fork this is.. or if its any good let me know... I didnt spend much on it..
(http://widget.slide.com/rdr/1/1/4/S/2b000000057a66ba/1/29/KPDVwGaXxj-_Mmqe-aLw19etGVFg9cOC.jpg) (http://www.slide.com/s/ChnA_8W42z_B0MlwjToh8lS5yuBxpmCU?referrer=hlnk)
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from the looks of it its a manitou stance static, there you go its been identified ;D
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from the looks of it its a manitou stance static, there you go its been identified ;D
Good eye. ;)
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thanks for the ID on the fork jeffhop & shovelon. :)