K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: DugB on July 07, 2008, 04:16:37 pm
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Hello all,
I picked up my K2 4000 today...in general I'm very pleased with the condition and the parts assortment...with one exception - the Smart Shock isn't responding at all (have new battery in there). Any recommendations on how to go about trying to get a response from the unit (no LEDs are lighting).
Thanks in advance,
- Doug
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Did you push the ON button on the lower left side? Should feel a definate click when it's depressed. Bottom button is on/off second button sets the rebound (should have three different settings) with corresponding LEDs. Just putting the battery in won't light the LEDs
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Did you push the ON button on the lower left side? Should feel a definate click when it's depressed. Bottom button is on/off second button sets the rebound (should have three different settings) with corresponding LEDs. Just putting the battery in won't light the LEDs
Hey! Yes, I inserted the battery and then pressed the Power button...heard the click, but no lights. Any ideas?
Thanks!
- Doug :-)
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Did you push the ON button on the lower left side? Should feel a definate click when it's depressed. Bottom button is on/off second button sets the rebound (should have three different settings) with corresponding LEDs. Just putting the battery in won't light the LEDs
Hey! Yes, I inserted the battery and then pressed the Power button...heard the click, but no lights. Any ideas?
Thanks!
- Doug :-)
Take the battery out and lift or bend the little contacts out. On most of these the battery would lose contact and turn off. One solution was to bend a piece of cardboard and insert under battery. I guess the battery jiggleing would push the tabs flat permently.
Or you have a dead battery? Or you left the battery in too long and it discharged, causing you to run to the local market to pamper your smartie? ;D
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Thanks for all the information, but sadly none of these suggestions are working. Checking that the leads are making contact was one of the first things I tried, and I too was hopeful that was the cause. I also tried a number of other 9Vs I have (all of which buzzed my tongue enough to indicate a decent charge), but perhaps I'll pick up a totally brand new one just to be sure.
Has anyone ever removed the "smart" assembly from the shock via the 3 Torx screws to diagnose the units internally? Alternately, does anyone have a spare Smart Shock (just the shock body) kicking around that they don't need?
On the plus side I may have found a set of springs (including ODSs) for my 856 frame, which is starting to come together as a second bike. They're from a guy parting out a different 856 frame, so they should be the right tension/rate. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Thanks again for any Smart Shock info you're able to provide!
- Doug :-)
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Well, I have a spare Nollen Carbon CS with a smartshock, and I can't definately hear any click when I turn the shock on. The fork is brand new and the shock is unused, so it shouldn't have any problem, but no click.
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Sounds like the electronics are dead,not worth repairing.
You could look inside and check for a loose wire or so.
I understand that when the electronics are off your at a normal damping setting anyway.
Also the electronics only adjusted compession damping, I'd just ride it as is.
Simon.
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whisperdancer: The "click" one might hear is essentially the mechanical switch under the membrane cover on which the power button is printed. If you get illuminated LEDs when you press the power button you're one step ahead of me.
BTW, I found out that my bike is a Way-Big size (from comparing the frame to other pictures, but also by looking on the original purchase receipt that came with the bike)...aside from the length of the steerer, is there anything different about the front fork that would hamper parts interchangeability with other ELT forks? For example, if I found a spare Smart Shock from a Medium or Large bike, would it fit?
Thanks!
- Doug
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When CVI used to still do shock rebuilds I enquired about the rebuild of an NR-5, they said they would remove the electronics pack and rebuild it effectively as an NR-2.
Dunno if this inspires you to have ago yourself, but if you knacker it then you might be stuck......
........maybe best to just leave it well enough alone..........
the NR-5 on my 4000se works fine and I like to belive that I can detect a slightly improved performance when it is "on" but a lot of the time I run it without a battery in it............they only last a few hours of use anyway and then, yes, it works in "default" mode, equivalent to an NR-2.
I think that a Crosslink with a NR-2 might have slightly more travel than one with an NR-5.....?
Col.
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Hey all,
Well, I went at the Smart Shock computer last night, removing it from the shock and having a look at the board. From some discoloration and debris around 3 of the terminals at the main chip I'm tempted to say that something got in there at some point, or some part of the board heated up enough to cause a short. It does look like the computer in-general is replaceable, as long as one can manage to reattach the wire ribbon from the piezo valve to the computer (with very little slack). Perhaps I'll keep an eye out for a spare shock sometime. That said, the shock still performs well...I know because...
...I rode the bike for the first time this morning, riding it to work. Man, this thing is such an improvement over my old Cannondale rigid MTB (which served me well since 1992). I was watching the shock work, soaking up little and big hits here and there. In general the ride was very smooth, the suspension responsive and I definitely made it to work faster this morning. I don't think the Way Big size is too big for me (I'm 5' 10" with a 34 inch inseam), but I'm sure the Large would be better.
Thanks again for all the Smart Shock info!
- Doug
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ride it and enjoy it :)
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DugB,
I've got a SmartShock that's defaulting to the "Firm" setting an am thinking about taking a look at the electronics. Can you (or anyone reading) provide any more detail about what you did to get to the board?
Thanks,
Phil/TW
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Hi Phil,
That was a bit of a while ago, but I just took a look at the parts I have downstairs (the control unit/battery compartment cut away from the rear of the shock, as I was never able to get it working). There are 4 screws under the 9V battery sticker inside the battery compartment. Remove those and you can access the circuit boards.
Hope this helps!
- Doug :-)
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DugB,
Thanks for the quick reply! I'll try it tonight, hopefully with some pictures for everyone.
Phil/TW
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Getting apart wasn't that hard, thanks for the pointers. Here are the pictures of what I found
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/aprwilliams/th_IMG_6298.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/aprwilliams/?action=view¤t=IMG_6298.jpg)
Looks like lots of corrosion across the voltage regulator, diode, transistor, resistors, and the large electrolytic cap along the bottom. In fact, one leg of the electrolytic cap is comeplete eaten through and no voltage is getting to that part of the circuit.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/aprwilliams/th_IMG_6301.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a23/aprwilliams/?action=view¤t=IMG_6301.jpg)
There's also some corrosion and partial shorts across parts of the Smart Chip pins, but this should be able to be cleaned up and it does appear to be working.
This board should really have been conformal coated or potted, and if coated then the housing gasket should have been RTV or some other one-time removable adhesive that would have done a better job about keeping the environment out.
I know all the parts that need to be replaced and I may be able to repair this, but the best option is to find a new board.
Anyone have a lead on a smartshock with intact electronics, maybe one with blown mechanicals that's for sale?