K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: skoddy on March 30, 2008, 04:02:26 pm
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HI, all. I've posted previously about a franken-oz I've been riding for awhile now that was built using K2 warranty hold over parts from here in the Seattle area. I started to get some play in the swing arm pivot, and after looking into it a bit I don't recognize any of the parts when compared to the factory diagrams I've seen, or pictures I've seen of your bikes here.
I'm thinking it may consist of random Evo parts, but I'm not sure. It has a (snug fitting) solid axle, with threaded holes at both ends, rides on plastic (!) bushings....all held together with small bolts and very cheap (now very cupped) washers. Any ideas what I've got shoved in there, or how to remedy the wiggle?? Thanks for any input!
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/Pivot.jpg)
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I have never seen parts like that in that style swingarm. What you need is a bushing kit. The bore looks OK in the swingarm, so the bushings should fit. You will be missing the bolts, cups, and shaft. Unless someone is willing to part with a complete set, I think you are stuck.
You might want to consider doing a "Simon's" sealed bearing conversion. I have done this on 2 bikes now and think this is the appropriate step. The killer is reaming out the diameters of the swingarm to fit the "off-the-shelf" sealed ball bearings. But the results are stunning. ;D
Have you tried Iron Horse for parts?
Terry
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Thanks, Terry. I tried to do some homework before posting and saw a lot of references to Simon's sealed bearing mod, but no specifics. Over-boring the swing arm is pretty much out of my capabilities anyways, though if it came down to it I suppose I could find someone more useful than myself.
I did order a pivot kit/hanger not long after I got the bike, but it came with only the der. hanger that I really needed at the time-- and I never followed up on the missing pivot kit. The thing is....whatever this pivot setup is-- it worked great until the bushings wore a bit.
If I did order bushings from Ironhorse, I'm not sure what bike to order them for--Evo, or...? I really like the bike, so I'm going to have to figure something out. I took off some odd (and incorrect) Noleen from the rear and fitted a Manitou Swinger last Spring. (Boing-boing.) I was going to upgrade the forks this Spring, but it looks like I've got a more pivotal/pressing matter. Baddum-bum. Thanks again!
-S-
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that's a new one on me for a carbon, and i've seen quite a few.
that pivot is not too terribly complicated, two axle pivot cups (one for each side) and a cross bolt is about all that should be in there.
haven't checked in with k2 lately but a kit with the basic parts might still be available.
c/o the main pivot assembly for the 957 in the 'how to's' - the axle cups and cross bolt should be similar to those but not the rest of the stuff.
perhaps a call to the k2 tech department (number on their website) could get the parts to you
is that setup still loose when you tighten down the swingarm pinch bolts as per specs?
OP
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Firstly all the new parts are wrong.
Secondly its unusual for the pivots to wear to the point that gives play and as already mentioned
that can easily be remedied by adjusting the pinch bolts.
All I can think off is (and hopefully this is it) the front dropout has become loose in the swingarm and needs
rebonding back in,nice easy fix, happened to me and gave the play you mentioned.
Other than that it can be the threaded inserts within the frame (that the swingarm bearings locate into) that have come loose or (and this has been known) broken,not such an easy fix.
You'll need to remove the swingarm to check this out, oh and the swingarms a pain to refit
you can checkout my solution to this here http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?topic=296.0
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Firstly all the new parts are wrong.
Secondly its unusual for the pivots to wear to the point that gives play and as already mentioned
that can easily be remedied by adjusting the pinch bolts.
All I can think off is (and hopefully this is it) the front dropout has become loose in the swingarm and needs
rebonding back in,nice easy fix, happened to me and gave the play you mentioned.
Other than that it can be the threaded inserts within the frame (that the swingarm bearings locate into) that have come loose or (and this has been known) broken,not such an easy fix.
You'll need to remove the swingarm to check this out, oh and the swingarms a pain to refit
you can checkout my solution to this here [url]http://idriders.com/proflex/smf/index.php?topic=296.0[/url]
Skoddy, can you pull the swingarm away and make sure the threaded inserts are tight, and the flanged bearing retainers are there?
A picture would help so we can see.
From there, it is just a matter of piecing together the remainder of parts.
I really need to convirm you have the mainframe complete.
Terry
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Men---I return bearing pivot porn :o
Pictured is the bulk of my pivot system, sans swing arm. The two large black anodized washers sit directly against the black anodized pieces fit into the frame. The photos show parts in order of appearance, situated as seen from sitting on the bike. The axle came out easy enough. It fits tightly, but so tight as to have to resort to any undue violence to extract it. It's hollow,quite light, and of course-- incorrect, as per the diagrams I've seen.
Simon--that was a good call regarding the dropouts--I didn't think of that. Unfortunately I didn't get off so easy this time, as mine are well bonded. I've had to re-epoxy one of my rear dropouts, and have been surprised at how well that's held up. As far as tightening the pinch bolts go, I feel that I had them pretty tight. I don't own a torque wrench, so I'm just talking here...but I've kept them as tight as felt comfortable wrenching on an allen head.
Terry--I've taken more pictures, but tried to keep the size conservative. Let me know if you'd like a closer look and I'll post a larger picture. As you may have noticed, I'm far from an expert-- but the parts that remain in the frame look pretty official to me. My guess is that the guy I bought the bike from came across it with that much installed already...and ad-libbed the rest from the K2 parts bins. He had a lot of extra swing arms and things for sale, and if I'd know back then...
I can't help but think that I need to: A) get a hold of some new bushings like the ones that were in there, because it did all seem to work well until they saw some wear (and dirt, by the looks of it)
or B) acquire all the parts that ought to have been in there in the first place, provided an outlet for said parts still exists. Is Iron Horse still holding??
The sealed bearing rig sounds like a fine idea from what I've heard, but likely out of my skill range/tool set, and/or budget
Well....whaddya think, guys?
Again--Many thanks!
-Scott-
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/pivot2.jpg)
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Men---I return bearing pivot porn :o
Pictured is the bulk of my pivot system, sans swing arm. The two large black anodized washers sit directly against the black anodized pieces fit into the frame. The photos show parts in order of appearance, situated as seen from sitting on the bike. The axle came out easy enough. It fits tightly, but so tight as to have to resort to any undue violence to extract it. It's hollow,quite light, and of course-- incorrect, as per the diagrams I've seen.
Simon--that was a good call regarding the dropouts--I didn't think of that. Unfortunately I didn't get off so easy this time, as mine are well bonded. I've had to re-epoxy one of my rear dropouts, and have been surprised at how well that's held up. As far as tightening the pinch bolts go, I feel that I had them pretty tight. I don't own a torque wrench, so I'm just talking here...but I've kept them as tight as felt comfortable wrenching on an allen head.
Terry--I've taken more pictures, but tried to keep the size conservative. Let me know if you'd like a closer look and I'll post a larger picture. As you may have noticed, I'm far from an expert-- but the parts that remain in the frame look pretty official to me. My guess is that the guy I bought the bike from came across it with that much installed already...and ad-libbed the rest from the K2 parts bins. He had a lot of extra swing arms and things for sale, and if I'd know back then...
I can't help but think that I need to: A) get a hold of some new bushings like the ones that were in there, because it did all seem to work well until they saw some wear (and dirt, by the looks of it)
or B) acquire all the parts that ought to have been in there in the first place, provided an outlet for said parts still exists. Is Iron Horse still holding??
The sealed bearing rig sounds like a fine idea from what I've heard, but likely out of my skill range/tool set, and/or budget
Well....whaddya think, guys?
Again--Many thanks!
-Scott-
([url]http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/pivot2.jpg[/url])
Looks like a home made repair using a shaft from a crossink/vector fork.
I suspect the frame inserts where broken at sometime and this has been used as a repair.
I think the play your experiencing is that shaft running through the frame moving within that sleeve.
Simon.
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Well, Simon...I believe you hit the target. I looked at all the fork diagrams, and for the Vector in particular ( http://www.k2bikes.com/PDF/techLibrary/1997/vector2_assy.pdf ) I see something very similar to the "axle" I've been bouncing around on!
I really have no choice but to find this hilarious. Not only that I've got fork parts for a pivot, but because it's actually worked really well! I haven't been gentle with this bike, so I'm just shocked that it's all held up so well. The fella that built this thing is quite the comedian!
In fact....based on what it's been through so thus far, I'd be perfectly comfortable leaving this 'system' in place if I could get rid of the play. You know a lot more than myself, and I understand your suspicions regarding the axle itself being the culprit-- but if I had to choose based on what I can see, I'd guess that the white bushings have been worn by the 'axle'. The insides of the bushings look pretty beat/glazed over, and fell out by themselves--whereas the 'axle' was perfectly happy inside the frame, and wouldn't come out without the persistence of a mallet and dowel. Do those bushings look at all familiar to you?
I suppose I'm just seeing more hope in finding a new bushing that might fit, and pray that works--as I don't have much hope of finding an outlet for the K2 hardware that should really be in there.
I really appreciate the help
-Scott-
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skoddy,
there's a trick to using the pinch bolts effectively and not overtightening them.
If over tightened, they can wear on the internal of the pivot.
with the rear wheel removed and shock not attached to the swing arm, the main pivot needs to be firmly in place with the pinch bolts loose so the swingarm can fall freely if lifted and dropped.
on standard internals, tighten the pinch bolt that holds the tapped end cup so it is held in place while tightening the crossbolt. tighten the cross bolt to specs then, loosen the pinch bolt so that pivot side is loose.
slowly start to tighten one of the pinch bolts while lifting and dropping the swing arm. as soon as the swing arm starts to slow in it's drop, back the pinch bolt out about an 1/8 of a turn so the arm moves freely again. repeat with the other side - when the arm starts to not drop freely leave it as is and go back to the first pinch bolt and retighten the 1/8th you backed it out. both bolts should now be adjusted properly to keep the swing arm snug on the axle but not over tightend to cause wear on the plastic parts. reassemble shock and wheel. go ride.
i'm still trying to figure out the internals on you bike ???
OP
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yes having just pulled my vector to bits the axle looks like the lower axle (pivot for lower link)
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You're gonna love this one. I took off what hardware was left, and this was what I found. The two black flanges each have a hard-plastic liner that the 'axle' rode on. With each side's respective flange threaded into the frame, there was a gap between their two ends in the center of the pivot-point, so Mr. funnyguy used a poorly cut piece of plastic hose of some kind to make up the difference. Sure, the bulk of the weight from the axle was riding on the threaded pieces, but still. Shameful, despite the shocking fact that it worked and held up so well!
So this is red anodized bit is what's bonded into my frame. Please tell me at least *this* much is correct! I'm at a loss as to where to go from here.
As per the K2 diagrams I've been looking at, it doesn't look like any other models used the same pivot hardware as the carbon frames. Am I mistaken? It's just that as far as finding OE parts to use, I'm going to wager that I'd have a hard time sourcing the parts...but finding another model on craigslist or something is doable. Someone willing to trade the NR-2 I took off the back, for pivot parts would be a dream :D hahaha
Thanks for listening, guys. I welcome any options you may think of.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/pivot3.jpg)
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the insert must be stock....the workmanship looks far too good to be the handiwork of the previous guy!Have you actually tried iron horse for the kit?
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Hey, we are getting closer.
The red bonded part looks stock. I am going to venture that the black screw in flanges are too. What is missing is the axle inserts, and all the rest of the bushing and bearing parts. I think Mr FunnyGuy made up his own system.
Scott, I would be willing to disassemble my pivot for a look, and take pics. But I don't know if it will be in the next few days. I will try for this weekend. I may also have a solution for you.
Terry
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These are the parts that came out of my Oz. The gold insert came out of one side, the gold with black threaded ring is the screw in part that you have. It is my assumption that the piece that is in your black threaded ring needs to come out. My frame also has the red color on it' threads like yours. If you had my gold inserts, as well as the bushings, you are complete.
Sorry about the really bad pic.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1036595/Ozpivotinsert.JPG)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1036595/carbonframeatpivot.JPG)
Terry
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Wow, Terry! Thanks for all the trouble! I really didn't mean to cause so much work. Thanks so much!
What you have there is so much more simple. I don't really understand what I see there just yet--or how it works, anyways. I suppose I need to study the diagrams, make a shopping list, and then try to hit up Iron Horse on Monday. If they don't have anything left....then it's time to get creative.
In response to your earlier post--this frame had no stickers at all--anywhere. I removed the shock and looked around up between the plates, but the only thing I could find...and it was barely noticeable...was a poorly hand- scribed number on the left plate. It says '1120' but the two ones make are in an odd shape, and it could just as easily be a botched "120." At any rate, I was surprised to find that, because I've looked all over the frame for any sort of marks or identification.
This frame was supposedly a warranty holdover that was liquidated when the bike biz left Vashon. The guy I bought it from said it was a 1999 OZ-M, not that the designation means anything when built up with random parts. I was pretty sure I was getting ripped off at the time, but what can I say? I always wanted one of these bikes, and this was only the second I'd seen in person. Maybe I need to get out more :D
One other thing...in my slightly more enlightened opinion after having the bike a couple years, and exploring this site...it almost looks as if my frame missed a coating of some kind. It's not very nice looking, and lacks the shine/smoothness of the bikes I see here. So who knows, the frame may well have been a quality control reject. I have one other (very long) post on this site, which has a picture of the bike as bought--pre Maniutou swinger, even. It came with an NR-2 on the back, but that was also incorrect, as the lower end had/has a large milled aluminum block threaded onto it, with horizontal holes in it. It fits very well in the swing arm, but was too long from what I've gathered. Too bad I didn't know that when I measured for the new shock! ;)
Thanks again so much for all your effort. That really was 'above and beyond.' If I can take any pictures that might help, let me know. Your shot of the red anodized bit sure felt good to see! At least I've got that much going for me on mine! hahahaha
You mentioned that the inserts inside my black threaded flanges need to come out....I'm going to check that out as the seem very, very well fit in there.
For now, I leave you with a picture of the team that built my bike--celebrating their success at creating such a marvel, whilst still saving all their money for beer.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/three-stooges.jpg)
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Kiwi! I missed your post amongst all my enormous pictures and blabbering! Thanks for your input. That 'axle' of mine sure looks just like the ones in the Vector diagrams. All except the offset grooves. Anyways...at least you have a new use for your spare Vector parts if you ever want a sweeeeet custom setup like mine. hahahaha.
I thought the parts that were threaded into the frame looked pretty authentic too, but it looks like I may be wrong. Gotta hand it to the guy...all this junk he assembled worked pretty well--for awhile.
And, hey! I've had the chance to be in your city, and liked it an awful lot. I even visited Parliament and sat in on a session to see how thoughtful government works! hahaha
Oh boy....now I'm on some/another 'watch' list. ::)
Take care, and thanks again
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Looks to me all you need to do is knock out the sleeve inserts that have been fitted to accomdate that (cut down) vector shaft from your threaded frame inserts,then refit.
Then all you need to get are the 4 bushes and seals (all in a kit)and the 2 tophat bearings one threaded one not, 1 bolt to go through the frame and you should be back to stock.
Let me check I may have what you need.
Simon.
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the crosslink/vector bearing bearings are very thin,maybe 1.5 mm max
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skoddy, would this be of interest to you? i knew i had it somewhere and as ive just bought some new bushes off colin i dont need it anymore.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/jeffhop/ozpivotkit.jpg)
im in uk so it may take a while for the post to get to you but you can have it foc. pm me your address if you want me to send you it.
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skoddy, would this be of interest to you? i knew i had it somewhere and as ive just bought some new bushes off colin i dont need it anymore.
([url]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/jeffhop/ozpivotkit.jpg[/url])
im in uk so it may take a while for the post to get to you but you can have it foc. pm me your address if you want me to send you it.
Hi Jeff,
That is indeed what he needs. Those came out of your Oz? All of those parts are captured in the swingarm. Now the last bits requiered are the two pieces pressed into the frame, like the ones in my photo.
If you see the red area in my frame, the tapered black bits unscrew from them. One of mine happened to be loose ???, so I took it out. The gold flanged sleeve presses into that. All the other bits locate in the swingarm, and slip into the frame.
Does anyone have a spare set? I guess with a drawing or sample, they could be machined.
Terry
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Here is the only way out that I can see. Either you find those flanged tophat alum frame inserts, or maybe buy an old bike or frame that use those same components to cannibalize. :'(
http://cgi.ebay.com/K2-PROFLEX-3000-ELITE-FULL-SUSP-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-BB_W0QQitemZ320235826928QQihZ011QQcategoryZ98083QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/K2-Proflex-5000-frame-Pro-flex-Pro-flex_W0QQitemZ140221948527QQihZ004QQcategoryZ98083QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
In the meantime, I will see what I come up with. ???
Terry
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Wow, Jeff! That's the prettiest picture I've seen in quite awhile! If you're absolutely sure you won't be needing that, I'd love to arrange something! I'll be PM'ing, and thanks so much!
Terry: the "tophat" you mention...that would be part #10 in the assembly diagram, yes? http://www.k2bikes.com/PDF/techLibrary/1998/98carbonframeassembly.pdf
I was wondering if what Simon suggested earlier: ("knock out the sleeve inserts that have been fitted to accomdate that (cut down) vector shaft from your threaded frame inserts,then refit.") would be effective if I had Jeff's hardware. They aren't tophats, but more....spaceships:) (pic below.)
My spaceships have an inner diameter of 13mm with the inserts, and would have an I.D. of 16mm if I were to bore out the liners.
In the meantime...the last time I contacted Iron Horse was a while ago now, and 'Tom' was the guy to call. When I can, I'm going to find out if there's a more current contact, and hopefully find someone knowledgeable and friendly there on Monday or Tuesday. There are no part #'s for the tophats, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to try!
Got to run! Thanks so much, guys!
-Scott-
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/notophat.jpg)
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Scott,
That is right,"#10 - pivot face insert". All the carbon type swingarms use this same pivot system. My Oz, 957s,956 all use it.
You may get lucky with Iron Horse, but I would not count on it. 8) Let us know how that goes. Again, anyone have"pivot face inserts" they can spare?
I would like to see you get on with your Oz. ;D
Terry
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Howdy, fellas. Time is much tighter on the weekdays! I didn't see a number for Iron Horse anywhere on the site, so have fired off an email to Mikel@....
Please let me know if I missed a more current contact. I'll let you know how it goes!
-Scott-
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Well.... these days, an email to mikel@ironhorse provokes a prompt reply from a really helpful guy named Carl. When I asked for the "pivot face inserts" (part 10 on the diagram I sent him ;)) Carl let me know that the only parts he has for me is RK008 (that's the 'quad rings' I think) and some d. hangers, which cannot be ordered directly, but " through your local K2 dealer or you can purchase them online at http://derailleurhanger.com/k2.htm." Now we know.
Carl answered my emails within about 5 minutes each, and was apologetic. Thanks, Carl.
So...Jeffhop has been nice enough to offer up all of the other pivot parts I need. I'm going to take advantage of that offer with many thanks out to Jeff. When I have the parts, I'll see if I can make the threaded inserts I have work while continuing to look for the proper parts. If all that fails I suppose I'll have to start looking for frames for sale on Ebay or Craigslist--which will come with all it's own parts, making me the new "pivot pal" parts holder of the group! I just imagine the day I get to send Jeffhop's pivot parts back to the UK for someone in need! :D
So does this all sound like the logical thing to do? Any particular frames I need to be looking for if it comes to that? Would an Evo work? Is there anything that you all are looking for that I can forward parts from?
Oi. I need to sleep. Thanks again, guys.
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those 2 parts that you need, the #10 parts would be sooooo easy to machine if a detailed and accurate drawing (in mm`s) could be made, im afraid my bike wont be getting dissasembled as ive just gotten rid of a nasty creak and dont want to tempt fate by disturbing the swing arm, i could probably get it done quite quickly at the machine shop i used to work at.
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those 2 parts that you need, the #10 parts would be sooooo easy to machine if a detailed and accurate drawing (in mm`s) could be made, im afraid my bike wont be getting dissasembled as ive just gotten rid of a nasty creak and dont want to tempt fate by disturbing the swing arm, i could probably get it done quite quickly at the machine shop i used to work at.
How about if I sketch it for you, and you could send it with your spare parts.
Terry
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i think i have part of a pivot kit....i cant seem to attach any pics and the gallery seemes to be broken for me..i cant seem to create an album as an administartor and if i log in as a user it says i dont have permission to creat an album.!
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This should help.
Terry
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1036595/k2pivotfaceinsert.JPG)
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mmmm inches?? what are those ;) is that the official k2 drawing cos if it is ill have a word with my mate and try and get some machined either next week or the week after depending on which shift he is on. shouldnt take him too long id have done it myself but the lathe i use now has a 22 inch chuck! watch this space :)
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mmmm inches?? what are those ;) is that the official k2 drawing cos if it is ill have a word with my mate and try and get some machined either next week or the week after depending on which shift he is on. shouldnt take him too long id have done it myself but the lathe i use now has a 22 inch chuck! watch this space :)
It is not an official drawing. I was able to have measurements and a drawing made of my pivot face insert and the dimensions pan out. You could probably use 6061-T6, but the material is really hard, so I suggest 7075. If you need, I can list the metric conversion, or you can just divide by .03937 to get meters.
22 inch chuck! Nice! :o Are you a machinist? I am more of a mill and drill guy. I just can't get my head around turning. ???
Terry
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yeah, been a turner for the last 18 years, ive no idea what grade aluminium that he will use as all they get in is lengths of bar, itll be the same stuff that i made my shock bushes for the oz out of, dont worry about the metric conversion i can do that no probs. there are times when i wish i hadnt left that job for pastures new as now i cant do any machining for myself. now it all depends on what shift he is on.
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if i can email you guys a pic,i think i have the inserts here...
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if i can email you guys a pic,i think i have the inserts here...
Yes, that is them. The elusive pivot face inserts are on the left and right. ;D
Terry
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they are surplus to my requirements......anyone can have em for the price of the postage....
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ive passed on the drawing of the pivot face inserts to my mate who is going to machine them. hopefully later this week i will have them done.
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Hi guys! Wow! I haven't been able to log on for a few days, and look at all I missed! I really don't know what to say in thanks for all your effort. I didn't mean to cause so much work, but hopefully having this info stored here will help future riders.
I'm confused though. I see the pictures of Kiwi's inserts (thanks Kiwi!) and realize that the PFI's aren't threaded. I just assumed they were threaded into the red-anodized sleeve that's bonded into the bike. So...what does thread into the red sleeve?
Jeffhop--If you're really willing to have/or already have had the PFI's machined, I'd be honored to to put them in my bike. If it get to be a hassle let me know, as Kiwi has offered up the inserts as pictured.
Thanks to all of you. I've told pretty much anyone who'd listen about how I posted on here asking for help, and what you've all offered in return. They can't really believe it either!
-Scott-
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You're gonna love this one. I took off what hardware was left, and this was what I found. The two black flanges each have a hard-plastic liner that the 'axle' rode on. With each side's respective flange threaded into the frame, there was a gap between their two ends in the center of the pivot-point, so Mr. funnyguy used a poorly cut piece of plastic hose of some kind to make up the difference. Sure, the bulk of the weight from the axle was riding on the threaded pieces, but still. Shameful, despite the shocking fact that it worked and held up so well!
So this is red anodized bit is what's bonded into my frame. Please tell me at least *this* much is correct! I'm at a loss as to where to go from here.
As per the K2 diagrams I've been looking at, it doesn't look like any other models used the same pivot hardware as the carbon frames. Am I mistaken? It's just that as far as finding OE parts to use, I'm going to wager that I'd have a hard time sourcing the parts...but finding another model on craigslist or something is doable. Someone willing to trade the NR-2 I took off the back, for pivot parts would be a dream :D hahaha
Thanks for listening, guys. I welcome any options you may think of.
([url]http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/pivot3.jpg[/url])
Do you see the treads on your black disc? Ok, those afterthought sleeves need to come out and tossed. Then bond your black threaded discs into the red threads of your frame. Then press or shove the pivot face inserts into them. Now you are ready for Jeffhop's spare parts.
Terry
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Understood. I didn't see those parts (the ones I have) on the K2 diagrams so I thought that the pivot face inserts took their place.
Bushings have been extracted. Ready for happy marriage to long-lost factory intended parts. Thanks Terry
-Scott-
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Sidenote to the POD!
I epoxied my threaded insert in and let it cure for a few days. Nice and clean and lubed, and tuned.
Last night I took the Oz out for a shakedown, and an annoying creak was missing. ;D ;D So I hammered away with delight only to snap the rear cluster on a climb, and was jammed right into the spokes. The freewheel ended up frozen. ???
Pulled the chain and Fred Flintstoned it 2 miles back to the trailhead. >:( >:(
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Sidenote to the POD!
I epoxied my threaded insert in and let it cure for a few days. Nice and clean and lubed, and tuned.
Last night I took the Oz out for a shakedown, and an annoying creak was missing. ;D ;D So I hammered away with delight only to snap the rear cluster on a climb, and was jammed right into the spokes. The freewheel ended up frozen. ???
Pulled the chain and Fred Flintstoned it 2 miles back to the trailhead. >:( >:(
you beast Terry
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But, hey.....at least you didn't have to listen to any damned squeaking on the way back :D
Were you able to fully remove the insert prior to epoxying, or was it just loose?
I had to 'Flintstone it' back once, and in the quiet of coasting I noticed a slight 'clunking' I'd never picked up on. It was the drive side dropout knocking around. I re-epoxied, and it's held surprisingly well since. Amazing what you notice when you're not hammering around, focussed on not hitting trees and things!
-S-
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But, hey.....at least you didn't have to listen to any damned squeaking on the way back :D
Were you able to fully remove the insert prior to epoxying, or was it just loose?
-S-
When I dropped the swingarm to look at the pivot face, I thought I might slip the pivot face insert out. But it was stuck and the threaded frame piece was able to wiggle :o, so I just unscrewed it frome the frame, revealing the red skeleton area. There was no adhesive on the threads at all, and the carbon has a flex factor to it, so I epoxied the threads.
How are you coming with your Oz?
Terry
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`UPDATE` ive had a phone call off my mate and the pivot face inserts are being machined as per drawing tonight and i will be picking them up tomorrow night all being well. so hopefully scott i can get them posted for you at the weekend or early next week at the latest.
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SWEET!
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`IMPORTANT UPDATE` look what ive got ;)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j186/jeffhop/pivot1.jpg)
ive got about a dozen of them, i only asked him for a couple :)
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That's the prettiest picture I've seen since the last picture you posted! Pretty incredible thing to do, Jeff. I don't know what the 'karma' points on this site are for, but I nominate you for ALL of them!
So there it is, all. I'll read up on how to install all those pretty (imported/re-imported....fancy!) parts and I'll let you know how it goes. Wish me luck!
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That's the prettiest picture I've seen since the last picture you posted! Pretty incredible thing to do, Jeff. I don't know what the 'karma' points on this site are for, but I nominate you for ALL of them!
So there it is, all. I'll read up on how to install all those pretty (imported/re-imported....fancy!) parts and I'll let you know how it goes. Wish me luck!
The suspense is killing me! 8)
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ok, its all been posted and hopefully should be with you shortly(ish) dont worry about reimbursing me for the postage as it was a ridiculously small amount. when you get everything put together post some pics and show it off.
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It's here!! It's here!! I want to dive in and put the pieces in their new home, but I don't think I'll have enough time until after the weekend :'(
Big thanks to all you guys! Mega kudos to Terry for the drawing and advice, and my firstborn child to Jeff. No, really, Jeff....It's the least I can do ;)
Wish me luck on the install!
-Scott-
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ok, ok...I couldn't contain myself. I've got greasy hands. I think I got it figured, but one question....the rubber o-rings. Terry...I just read your thoughts in another thread regarding the cross-bolt and tightening it: "The way I do it is to pinch the opposite bearing until the cup won't spin, and then wrench it as tight as you possibly can. Then loosen the pinch bolt and work the swingarm drop."
So before I even get my cross-bolt tight, the rubber o-rings are squeezing out. How do you get them to stay put while still having the cross-bolt tight enough?
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So before I even get my cross-bolt tight, the rubber o-rings are squeezing out. How do you get them to stay put while still having the cross-bolt tight enough?
Hmmm, I never looked. But they always were in the right place when I was done.
Terry
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Are they supposed to compress and squish out a bit maybe? Huh.
I've also got the same issue as the fellow in the other thread. With the cross-bolt tight, the swing arm slowly falls under it's own weight (plus rear der. still mounted)
So just about any tightening of the pinch bolts causes it to not fall at all. Maybe it's time for me to learn about torque specs and buy a t-wrench.
Sure looks cool though! hahaha Everything fit just right, Jeff. Almost as if....it belongs there :D
I was chuckling inside thinking about the "carbon footprint" of these parts in my carbon frame. Maybe they were made in Asia, shipped to the US where they were assembled into Jeff's bike, sent to Jeff, ridden around the UK, then sent back to Wa. Man...I better go plants some trees or something ;D
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whoa that was quick, ive had items sent from other parts of the uk that have taken longer, glad they arrived in one piece, get a pic posted as soon as its back together and dirty ;). enjoy! :)
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Hey guys! I got out for my first ride on the bike yesterday! Everything seems to work great, and I can notice a distinct difference in the lack of rear end slop. It's got a tighter feel back there then ever-- and that's a great thing. It's a bit more confidence inspiring in turns at speed, to say the least! Next issue will be to bug you kind fellows for any fork recommendations, as the one that's on there doesn't do much more than hold my wheel. It feels the same at any air pressure, and it's chintzy rebound adjustment is worthless. It's boing-boing all the way. From what I've read about this fork it's not worth rebuilding. I'll take the liberty of starting a new thread about all that though ;)
So, Jeff....no action shots or anything too great, as it was a bit dark and wet yesterday evening. I'll do my best to teach whomever I'm riding with how to take a decent picture next time though!
I did stumble upon a monument constructed in honor of all of you. Check it ouuuuuuuuut 8)
Thanks again to all of you! Ride on!!
Monument to all of you!!
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/monument.jpg)
Before
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/Oz-before.jpg)
After!!
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n53/scoddy/Oz-after.jpg)
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that seat bag could double as a rear fender!..stealth lookig OZ...Any modern 4-5 inch fork would be cool...wait for a bargain/clearance....
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Very Nice Scott!
Happy riding!
Terry
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ahhhh looking good there scott, glad i could help a fellow oz pilot.