K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: signalMTB on January 01, 2008, 05:58:03 am
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Look at this picture...
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2355/2155677802_3026a916d8.jpg?v=0)
should the eye with the blue nut unscrew from the spindle? The spindle turns with the nut and don't want to mar the spindle up by clamping on it.
Also, other than RDS, anyone have any MCUs lying around they're not using?
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no......the shock comes aprt from the other end.This is the front shock right?
At the top of the other end is a cap which comes of then i think is a rubber ball which comes out and deep inside is a 4 mm allen head bolt.....you need a long allen key to get to it and its best if you still have the axle through the other end so you can stop it from turning.
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Ooooohh errrrrrrr....!!!! be careful!
Have you got an ODS? (i.e. gold coloured body with an "ODS" sticker on it)
(http://i18.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/b4/54/8fbf_1.JPG)
Or maybe it isn't, as it doesn't look quite right.
If it is, the eye should unscrew from the end of the thread and the nut is a lock nut to stop it doing this.
So, you should be able to clamp the locknut and unscrew the eye, then unscrew the locknut, but if the thread is very damaged then all of this may be difficult..............
I think it's unwise to rotate the damper shaft too much as this may damage the internals, or on the other hand it may not, but doesn't seem a good idea.........?
Thread penetrator and patience!
Maybe if push come to shove, file flats onto the threaded section and clamp that.......
Dunno what Kiwi means by his response, are you desciibing a girvin frction damper? ('cos the top end of an ODS doesn't undo)
Right then! off for the first ride of 2008!
Col.
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Kiwi did mean the friction damper. I have one must have broken the eye off because the blue nut threads down to a weld.
Terry
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hi there signal
vector 1 ??
kiwi is spot on with his instructions but didnt mention that the blue nut is
your preload and is a bit awkward to get a spanner in there when all fitted.
if anybody has a spare ods i would see if its a straight swap and go with a spring
from rds.
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Dunno what Kiwi means by his response, are you desciibing a girvin frction damper? ('cos the top end of an ODS doesn't undo)
Right then! off for the first ride of 2008!
Col.
yes Colin i meant the friction damper as found on the x55 and the 756.....the blue(preload adjustment) nut gives it away.
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no......the shock comes aprt from the other end.This is the front shock right?
At the top of the other end is a cap which comes of then i think is a rubber ball which comes out and deep inside is a 4 mm allen head bolt.....you need a long allen key to get to it and its best if you still have the axle through the other end so you can stop it from turning.
KIWI...not sure I follow. Look at this picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16633653@N04/2169252669/
I don't quite see what you mean by the cap and ball. The upper shock mount is at the other end (the picture)...nowhere for an allen to fit down into. Or maybe I'm just really confused.
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KIWI...not sure I follow. Look at this picture:
I don't quite see what you mean by the cap and ball. The upper shock mount is at the other end (the picture)...nowhere for an allen to fit down into. Or maybe I'm just really confused.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2142/2169252669_a48643e747.jpg?v=0)
see the cap right on top?That comes off.You may have to lever it up using a wide scewdriver or similar.Those shaped rubber bushings and the aluminium tube that accept the top monting bolt come out and then you can lever from the side of the hole in the shock body.It wont take much to lift that cap off.If you are wary about it use a thick rag or similar
on the side of the hole before you use the lever.
Then i think the MAD ball is on top of the damper inside the shock body itself.The mad ball is the bottoming out bumper.Once you have that out you will see the 4mm bolt.Once you have that out you can get the mcu off.If you use more mcus dont use petroleum based grease to refit them.You will think they will not go on cos the hole is a lot smaller than the shaft,and you NEED grease to fit new MCU.Just a note there is a front ods on ebay,see the for sale thread...
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hey guys, thanks a ton for the help. I got it off...a couple of things I would modify about the removal process that worked for me at least:
1.) remove black rubber side washers from top and the through pin (i.e. cylinder bearing). then use a small punch/screwdriver and tap from inside up to knock out the top cap, rather than trying to pry it off.
2.) tear off old MCU first to give full range of motion of shock (i.e. compress to bring the 4mm bolt up closer) and then you can use a socketed 4mm allen under MAD ball, rather than trying to use a long allen wrench
now I just need to get some MCU replacements. How much are they from RDS, anyone know?
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seem to recall they are about £23 for a pair, but I may be wrong. User SLIM also may have some available. If you can't get him here, you might find him on www.retrobike.co.uk
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seem to recall they are about £23 for a pair, but I may be wrong. User SLIM also may have some available. If you can't get him here, you might find him on www.retrobike.co.uk
£23 for 2 pieces of rubber...ouch :o maybe now's the time to retire these Girvin's once and for all. Thanks orange for the info, I'll try SLIM and see what he says.