K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: Carbon_Kiwi on May 21, 2003, 11:40:22 am
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3609759553&category=7295
i'm not really too keen on grinding the swingarm shock mount like someone on this board did to fit his Fox Float RL.
(http://www.southlanddcwaste.govt.nz/images/071.jpg)
i realise i'd have to get custom bushings - but that's no problem...
my main aim with this upgrade is to replace my NR-2 with a lighter air/oil shock [not a coil] as xc is my thing.
i'm kinda in two minds as to whether i need rebound/damping adjustment cause once i have it dialed in, i don't tend to tinker with it.
i am keen on the Risse Genesis but if i can get something [even in the short term] at half the price, i'd be interested in trying it out.
look forward to your comments :)
cheers
Jas
i'm sure i measured the e2e and there was only like 10mm difference, ie: 210mm on the NR2 as opposed to 200mm on the Fox - surely not a big deal? please someone correct me if i'm wrong...
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hey carbon
i think the eye to eye on the nr2 is 8.25 inches. i'm sure you could put the fox on but i think it would change the geometry/travel.
just something to think on......
...........peace [smiley=nod.gif]
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I replaced my NR1 with a 200mm RC and there isn't any big difference with having the 10mm shorter shock just a huge difference in ride quality. dmc
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Hi M8ty
I have just bought a new fox float to fit to an Oz carbon frame when I get it.......... ::)
It is the float R like the one u show on e-bay, which doesn't have the lockout lever fited, so I plan on mounting it the other way up to the one in the pic, so the valve can be on the side away from the mount and theres no need to cut it ;)
As to the travel, my SID is 195mm eye to eye and it does make a difference to the steering and lowers the bb height some, but it behaves differently to the NR2 it replaced. I mean if the sag/ride height is different under trail conditions/pedaling/climbing etc than an NR2 (as the SID behaves in a different way - dual air) then the head angle will change?.!
if you see what I mean?,,
That isn't worded very well, but the bottom line is that I don't think the "static" head angle should be the be all and end all!!!
Also running 80mm travel forks instead of 100mm makes much more difference.
btw, I measured my old NR2 eye to eye and it is 200mm.!
Incidentally the float on e-bay is a 2000 version, so be careful it's a couple of years old!
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hey ProflexGB,
yeah, i was wondering about the length difference. i [like you] don't think it will make a hell of a lot of diff, but then this morning i was in seeing my bike shop buddies and mentioned it to them. they seemed to think it would make quite a difference.
so who knows ???
i would like to do the Risse thing, but $200 [US] is just a little outta my price range [at the mo].
i have 100mm duke xc's up front which i'd really like to swap with duke races [80mm] so i would imagine that would 'even things up' a bit ???
so far no luck on the ebay front tho - no one wants to ship to me :(
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Carbon,
DON'T DO IT! Switch to an 80mm fork that is. Not unless you only ride flat trails, in which case it might be okay. When I switched from 80 to 100mm (both Manitou) it was like getting a whole new bike and better in EVERY way. Smoother, better handling, etc. But that's just my opinion. I think the EVO style frames deserve at least 4 inches of travel.
I also have a Stratos Helix Pro with a sub-200mm eye-to-eye. Never noticed a difference in geometry (and I have switched back and forth between that, a SmartShock, and a 210mm Risse Astro-5 several times).
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Hey Carbon,
I went ahead and mounted the Fox air shock on my Oz. I had to do the swing arm hanger grind out in order to make it fit. I guess that my biggest concern was the removal of material weakening the mount. That, as it turns out, hasn't been a problem at all--I don't do any big drops on this frame anyway; pure xc for this baby. The real issue with the shock lies in its amount of travel.
The shorter length combined with 2in. of shaft travel allows the swing arm to come in contact with the main triangle--a big no no. If you examine the picture you can see some denting on the seat tube. I fear that the carbon would just crack under bottoming load.
My solution solution to the problem was to open up the shock place a large rubber bumper inside to limit travel. It reduces the air volume a bit but the ride has been transformed. I had no idea that the noleens were so crude. The slackened head angle and reduced ride height have given the bike the confident feel that I have been chasing. In its original configuration the Oz always felt a little tall and a tad spirited for my tastes. Handling is now spot on for my riding style; rocky singletrack and fast fire roads. (Northern California) With the addition of a 4 in. travel Look Fournales fork the head angle has been somewhat restored.
There are definitely easier ways to go but after all the fiddling, my quest for the perfect ride seems complete. My 2cents...
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hmm... excellent, lots to think about
thanks guys :)
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ok, decided to flag the fox and just save up for a risse...
thanks for the input :)
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C.K.
That's my handy work there. I was given that shock by a friend to sell it, but decided to try it out.
The concern over weakening the mount on the swingarm is unfounded. I have since gone to a 8.5" Fox Vanilla RC and have used it to do small drops (<4') without a problem.
The float worked great, but it does decrease the travel, but not so much that it wouldn't be great for XC. You will need to lessen the front travel to keep the same geometry.
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If you don't want to do frame mods, you can get a 200mm Vanilla RL. I have one on my Evo and am very happy(might have to get an RC for the rare occasion that I shuttle...you get at least 6" w/the RC and 5" w/the RL)