K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: red855 on March 22, 2007, 12:55:08 am
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Hello all
I need to upgrade the original brakes on my 855, a recent ride around Leith Hill in Surrey reminded me that they aren't fit for purpose, i.e they don't slow me on the steep descents when I'd rather be going a lot slower.
What are the options?, I don't want to spend too much so wasn't thinking about discs or such like. Can V brakes be grafted on without too much difficulty? Advice greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Sean
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I run V-Brakes on my 855 and 955, a mate runs Magura Hydraulic rim brakes.
The hydraulics work and feel better, but I am happy with the V's, so I have never bothered with an upgrade.
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Thanks, were the V's an easy upgrade then? Was it just a matter of the cable routing being different and using V brake levers?
Sean
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The V'brake calipers drop right on the brake lugs.
Like you said a change of levers is in order, although if your wheels are dead straight you can set up V's nicely with Canti levers, I did that for years before I found out there was different levers.
Cable routing.....that only place this is different is that you don't put the cable through the hole in the seat tube, it just runs on the outside nice ant neat.
This pic shows how I have mine routed, the cable runs to the outside of the frame, not through the hole.
(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k316/sammydogg/855SSdrive.jpg)
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Go with a set of Magura Hydraulic rim brakes. You can pick them up relatively cheap on ebay, and you will definitely have an upgrade over standard cable pull v brakes (imho). Plus you will have another unique feature to explain when people stop you on the trail to find out what that is you are riding...;)
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Well, I just bought a new set of HS33 Raceline to put in my 97 frame. Fluorescent yellow with the big red adjuster. Just to go with the oldschool type of bike. They really work very very well.
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Thanks all, great advice. I will pop down the shops tomorrow.. The Magura prices look pretty good.
Sean
ps still love the way the 855 attracts so much attention even after 12 years, great having something old school that still looks so utterly trick
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I have a red 855 too and run v-brakes on it. A note from the picture above - you can actually unscrew the cable end stop from the swingarm (if you're no longer using canti's) if you want to smooth out the lines a bit. I have also seen it where somebody has run the cable through the hole despite using v brakes too!!
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I was having a good look at my bikes today, and decided I am going to take the Avid Arch Rivals off the 955 and put them on the single speed 855.
For the 955, a nice new set of Magura HS33's. Been thinking about it for a while, and might finally do it along with a new shock.
orange,
I realise you can take the canti guide off, but if I do that it will be lost for good. I'll just leave it on the bike for old times sake.
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I take your point! Mine's in a box now somewhere - but I can't see me going back to canti's somehow!
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the only problem i had was the rear brake cable noodle caused a bit of trouble i think i had a 90 deg one at first and i clipped it with my heel now and then,so iwent to a diffeent bend.This bend also causes some drag.The Maguras sound the go to me.I was given the Vs.....
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Are the Magura's a bit like an on/off switch or do you all find they still give good feel and progression?
I understand they are very powerful (one finger braking) but given that there's only so much the tyres can take out on the loose and I'd want something that still offers excellent control.
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I've only been for a short ride on my mates 857 with Maguras, but they really felt awesome.
They weren't an on/off feel at all.
Personally, I want to get a pair for my bike, but I think a new shock will have to come first.
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have a look at the other thread running about HS33's. I find they are about as good as a well set up set of V's (though might be how I've set up the maguras!). They are quite progressive, so can't complain there.
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XP-X (856) with Maguras, no arch boosters.
4000 with XT V's.
5500 with Maguras and arch boosters
OzM with Avid Arch Rivals V's and XTR levers
All about the same in perfect set up with new pads.
Modulation ("feel") on both is fine, but Maguras are slightly better, the V's on the 4000 grab and squeel a bit at the front, causing a bit of diving, maybe just me.....?
As the pads age the Maguras are very easy to adjust. You just adjust the Travel of the lever.
Pad change is a breeze on the Mags, I run standard ones and red ones sometimes.
Make sure you get a set with Q/R levers on at least one side per set or they're a complete b1tch if ypu get a flat, as you have to undo an Allen bolt and probably lose the adjustment. make sure a secondhand set have the mounting washers and posts.
Both the Maguras and the V's will lock up easily, just reasonable 2 finger pressure on both.
Mags are a bit heavier overall, and some people get jumpy about the "delicacy" of the hydraulics, but touch wood, I've never had a problem in 9 years.
I find Mud clearance on the Mags can be an issue.
Some people say to go for ceramic rims with Mags but I've not worn out a set of rims yet (XP-X)....braking power is perhaps slightly better with ceramics (5500). But maybe this is the arch boosters helping
Bottom line choice for me would be a top quality set of V's.
Col.
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Like you said a change of levers is in order, although if your wheels are dead straight you can set up V's nicely with Canti levers, I did that for years before I found out there was different levers.
Aaaah....... I've been thinking of putting V's on my Marin Pine Mountain as it has cantis and they're pretty poor, but thought you "had" to change the levers? tell me more, was it really simple? is it just that the V levers have less travel or more....?
Col.
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The canti levers don't have as big a leverage ratio as the dedicated V-Brake levers. So for each pull of the lever they aren't pulling through as much cable.
So to set up the V's with them, you essentially have to get the pads as close to the rim as possible so when setting them up. The feel at the lever is a little spongy, but you get used to it.
Setting them up is just trial and error for me, but I'm sure some people may have a methof that works.
Personally, I would prefer to use V-Brake levers and I got some Avid Speed Dial 5's pretty cheap. The V specific levers are a lot simpler and quicker to set up.
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Cheers guys, yesterday I decided I'd go for the V's and what I have just read has re-assured me on choice. I'm going to source some XT/XTR + levers very shortly.
Sean
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Just to follow up I got a set of new XT V brakes (from Chain Reaction Cycles) and some secondhand Avid levers off Ebay.
I'm extremely happy and the difference is incredible, ample power for my needs. Should have dumped those cantilevers years ago. The full upgrade cost me about £46 GBP
However what I am feeling more now is the pulsing from the front Vector 2's when braking hard, it feels like an oscillation of the forks back and forth - anyone know what this might be? The Vectors are running a Risse shock. Is it something to do with the adjuster on the Vector top link which I haven't touched for years..
Cheers
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Ahhh... the very reason I switched to discos.
Sounds like you've got some rim irregularities. It's possible to run cantilevers and not notice small deformities in the rim. (Less power, less feedback.)
When you switch to V-brakes you get more feedback with all that power.
One of the reasons I switched my Proflexes to telescoping forks was the brake dive. It can probably be mitigated, but I never figured out how.
Go get 'em,
Will
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I did have the same effect with my crosslink on my 957 early on. Brake dive due to J- path and pulsing from the seam on my spinery rim. Not a big issue when braking in straight line, but I would lose traction and lock up the brake in a turn. Broke my shoulder due to a bad crash on a downhill curve when the front wheel washed out from under me.
I ended up removing the spinergy to another bike, and turning the legs forward for more rake that would lengthen wheelbase.
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Hi, if the angle at the back is too tight and catching your pedals/ shoes use a cog hog instead of the v brake guide tube. it works a treat!
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Hey folks:
I've run three brake set-ups on my '98 4000:
- The original LX Vs (without the parallelogram linkage), swapped for;
- Avid Arch Rivals on the front / XT Vs on the back, swapped for;
- HS33s front and back.
To me there's not a lot of difference in power between the Vs and the HS33s - the hydraulics are a bit more powerful, and I haven't noticed any difference in sensitivity or control. I think I've noticed a small difference in wet-weather performance where the Vs are better.
However, I do like the fact that the HS33s are basically set-and-forget items and haven't needed any attention since I set them up a year ago. Having said that, any of the parallel-push V brakes (LX / XT / XTR, Arch Rivals) don't need a lot of attention either.
As far as taking the wheels off with the HS33s fitted, I let the air out of the tyre - which allows one the squash the tryre and slip it past the brakes - and reinflate the tyre after the wheel has been resinstalled. This is definitely the easy option compared to unbolting the brake booster and moving the brake bodies themselves.