K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: martin on November 08, 2005, 02:39:10 am
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Hi im thinking of swopping the girvin pipeline chubbys on my proflex 97 beast to something abit more modern and better suited to my weight.
Im about 16 1/2 stone and need a fork with canti studs so i can still use my magura hs33s rather than go down the route of disk brakes as that would mean a new wheel, disk brake and lever etc..
What do people think of the 2005 (as being sold off cheaper) mazocchi mx comp 105mm travel and the mc comp eta 120mm travel. Is that extra feature and the extra travel worth paying more for?
Is the 2006 model much better?
What other budget forks can people recommend from rock shox, manitou etc
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My daughter has manitou black 100mm air on her bike and it is smooth as silk, with no problems so far after a year.
I had Psylo SL on my bike for a while, and before the damper failed, it worked flawlessly. The travel adjust and lockout were great.
I am currently running a Maverick. I have been breaking it in and have yet to estabish a servicing routine. But so far it is great. Would not recommend the single crown version.
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I can get a brand new manitou black elite 2004 model with 90 to 120mm travel for £179 which were £315, how do you think these would compare to say a 2005 marzocchi mx comp eta with 120mm travel for the same money?
The manitou are more expensive originally but heard that they require more servicing than marzocchi, but saying that which do people think would be the better fork to ride xc and downhills but not stupid downhills and jumps etc. Not bothered if they differ in weight am more bothered about the ride, reliability and tuneability to suit my lardy weight without ideally having to buy heavier springs etc.
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I am currently running a Maverick. I have been breaking it in and have yet to estabish a servicing routine. But so far it is great. Would not recommend the single crown version.
Terry wants wrong with the single crown version ???
I've been reading up abit about these forks (both single and duel crown)as both
versions are fitted to different model bikes I like,
the main complaints about the bikes was the forks
though the points made were minor if using fork as XC,the main complaint was lateral flex giving the feeling much like a punctured tyre when cornering hard,would be interested in any info you have that I've missed.
Thanks.
Simon.
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Simon,
I have heard that the single crown maverick is more flexy. And at 5 inches of travel, the weight is not lighter than the 6 inch. [smiley=disbelief.gif] I could buy a lighter fork for that money, with Ti spring for instance.
The only thing I could pinpoint as lateral flex on my fork is that maybe the cam locks could be allowing the axle to float upon compression. I have not sensed this, I am flying to fast to notice. [smiley=laughing.gif]
Terry
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Thanks Terry,
just curious as these forks are standard fit
no real option to change (imagine that would be too
expensive)
both forks did pretty well overall on there respective bikes.
Simon.
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Those Black forks are ok for that price, i have found them to be too soft 'out of the box' but you can put some stiffer springs in. it is good to have the travel adjustment and durabilty seems ok. I tend prefer marzocchi but if you are watching the dosh go for the black.
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I didn't read the original post properly, if the price is the same i would get the marzocchi 120 !!
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thanks for the reply.
Found out i cant go for the manitou as hs33s wont work on any fork with a reverse arch, raw marketing and magura have both confirmed this.
However i can get my hands on a bargain new pair of 2004 magura asgards 100mm travel no lock out feature but not that bothered about that for £125, less than 1/2 price.
or i can get the 2005 marzocchi mx comp 105mm travel for £126 or the 2005 mx comp eta 120mm travel for £170
after that would just need a shock pump which is about £20
Out of the above 3 options which do you think would be the best (they are going on a 97 beast which is 4" front and rear travel)
Anything else i should consider bearing in mind it needs canti studs and able to take hs33s so no reverse arched forks
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I would go for the 120mm eta. Sure the extra travel costs extra money but in my opinon it is worth it.
Terry
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whos the better fork magura or marzocchi?
you dont see magura on oem but im guessing this maybe the fact they are made in germany (four sprung duck technique) or netherlands by rond where as most bikes are made in tiwan the same place most of the forks are made so no shipping costs to get the forks to the frame etc.... unless there is another reason
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ended up getting a set of magura asgards brand new for £114 just waiting for the post man, then will have to look at fitting them and sorting out the rear shocj and giving the bike a good clean and service.
Can anyone recommend the best way / tools to cut down the steerer tube?
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Every bike shop I know of uses this really trick tool. Very specialized indeed.
A "HACKSAW"!!!!
Mark the cut zone with a pencil, clamp it somehow and cut as straight as possible with the "HACKSAW".
After cut, file the cut smooth and deburr. Stand back and inspect using your X-ray vision. Review the measurement against all current engineering data(Eyeball Engineering).
Clean and assemble. Then crack open [smiley=beer.gif].
LOL, Terry
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If you can get your hands on a tubing cutter, it makes a sweet cut.
I am the man with the wandering hacksaw...
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If you can get your hands on a tubing cutter, it makes a sweet cut.
I am the man with the wandering hacksaw...
I agree! Pipe cutter is the best tool for shortening the steerer cleanly. Still have to file the inside of the tube a bit so the star nut can be inserted.
Trusty old Hacksaw is what a lot of bikeshops use along with the Park Tool cutting guide to get a straight cut.
I have used both and prefer the Pipe cutter.
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is the pipe cutter the same as used by plumbers?
thought about a hacksaw but think would need to crack open the beer first to steady my hand lol
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Yes pipecutter.
You know you could probably run down to your local hardware or plumbing supply store and see if they would cut it for you.
Terry
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not a bad idea, but even if i have to get a cheap pipe cutter it will be cheaper than using a bike shop, and its all practice so long as i dont balls it up its a good thing
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I would recommend cutting the steerer longer than the measurement required,so if your intending to cut to lets say 120mm I'd add 20mm to this,then I'd fit the stem in the position you first intended and add 20mm of stack spacers on top,this will give you the option of repositioning your stem to an optimal height by swapping around the stack spacers,once this is optimised you can then cut the tube at a later date if you so wish.
Simon.