K2 / Proflex Riders Group
General => Tech Forum => Topic started by: jinder on July 03, 2005, 10:30:01 am
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I broke my frame....BUT
I got her all fixed up from the best welder in Town. My 957 is back with a few battle scars but nothing too bad for a old timer of a machine.
Man, LESSON LEARNED! [smiley=disbelief.gif]
He said the welds just need 24 hours to set, after that its ready for action!
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5244_Large.jpg)
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5246_Large.jpg)
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5248_Large.jpg)
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5251_Large.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5231_Medium.jpg)
(http://idriders.com/proflex/galleries/jinder/IMG_5230_Medium.jpg)
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MURDERER!!!!!!!!!!
Oh, I mean - are you alright????????????
No, really, are you alright? I hope you didn't, ummm, injure "anything".
I'm out of my league with welding. Ask Terry (shovelon) - he does this stuff for a living.
Again, I hope you're okay. That's my concern.
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I'm ok... I didn't get hurt... but I am extremely worried about my bike.
Its a clean break and I really hope it can be welded back together, is can right guys? Yes? Can it?
Oh man... I feel ill. Trust me, I am not happy right now.
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In my best Monty Python impersonation....
Bring him a bucket!
Honestly, Jinder, I am worried for your frame. Can it be welded? Yeah, sure. I'd be more concerned about having the two pieces of tubing line up properly again. At the very least i'd think you'll be looking at needing to chase a larger sized reamer through the two pieces to make sure they line up properly.
Again - this isn't my forte, so i'm just going off speculation with what would be done in the machine shop world, which may or may not be handled the same way in the biking world.
Ummm, if I lived closer i'd bring you some tissue? :-[ ;D
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Maybe a Replacement bike? http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=05StumpjumperFSR
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As long as you use an experienced aluminum welder who knows what he/she is doing you'll be fine. Its the seat post. I'd be more worried is if it was break down at the crack or up front at the stem.
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".....specialist....."
".....very confident it could be repaired....."
".........try to make it look very neat..........."
".........its in the best hands around....."
You fell for that old story?
ha, ha, ha, I can hear him hitting it with the sledgehammer from here!
No, you're quite right, I'm sure it'll all be fine........now just go and lie down in a dark corner and imagine the oxy-acetylene cutting torch he's using on it right now!
p.s. now I've completely upset you, what's the guy gonna charge?
p.p.s just seen your latest photo's on the gallery and Man you are such a poser! in the nicest possible way, obviously! <GRIN>
Col.
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Hi Colin,
I think its about $50 but we'll see. I was pretty upset last night, sort of still am now too. If things don't workout I might start over with a new bike, I haven't eally seen anything out there I like besides some Stumpjumper models.
Its my own fault though.
P.S. I'm a Photographer in my sparetime, posing for the camera cames natural for me.
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VERY HARD LESSON LEARNED :(
all's not lost though,
your repair should be fine though if its not heat treated after the repair you may have to wait a month for the weld to harden off,
personally I wouldn't paint the repair just polish the area to match the frame and re- lacquer,
Simon.
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Thanks Simon! I'll ask them about the heat-treatment bit.
It was a hard lessoned learned...I still feel just awful about it.
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Oh f...!!
That beautiful frame!!!
I'm really feeling with you.
I'm so sorry about that!
I hope you can let it weld so that the patient will soon be on the road again!
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Hey Jinder and all.
The repair looks good! Judgeing from appearance the weld looks sound. As Simon mentioned, the weld does need the dissipate some residual stresses built up in the heat affected zone. The Easton tubing is 7005 alloy and will self heat treat, but the alloy grain patterns needs some temperature cycling to settle
Polish that weld up! It looks cool!
Terry
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Cool, I'll watch for that. The bike is "out of service" for about 2 weeks (waiting for my new air shocks). Hopefully it will cure in time for mid July.
I'll polish the complete frame this winter, Thanks Terry!
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Man, this is one confusing post! I didn't check the board for a few days, and without seeing the original post (which I assume you edited Jinder), I had no idea what you were talking about. Kind of figured it out, but I missed the pics of the damaged frame that I assume were there before the repaired pics were... ;)
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Sorry man....
:)
I added the "before" pics
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JV,
Your welder did a nice TIG job. Mine did not...
I took my new 856 down to the local welding shop to get a disc brake boss attached to my swingarm.
Not pretty at all. I've got it looking better, but have doubts about the metal structure where the box tubing joins the dropout casting. We shall see.
And it cost > $50!
You have been well taken care of on that frame repair.
Will
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Ahh man, sorry to hear about your 856. Do you have any photos? Terry "shovelon" is the man to talk to about welding - he is a master welder. I saw a 856 frame on ebay for $45 but there is only 3 hours left....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=98083&item=7166834795&rd=1
You could get this one...its looks excellent
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Thanks for the tip... I'll pass for now. (Still digging my way out of the doghouse for "miscellaneous expenditures" on bicycle parts and skeet guns.
I'll post pics soon, but if there's damage from overheating, I won't see it untill it fails. It's possible to test, I suppose, but will just let it cure for a few weeks before stressing it out.
BOL w/ the seatpost.
Will
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Hey there Will,
If the disk tab is positioned correctly you are in good shape. If the welder used high strength filler you are in good shape, and you can grind away. Cannondales are done this way. What I would do is call the weld shop and ask what about the filler. 5356 is the right alloy for the weld but 4043 alloy can work if you beveled the tab and don't grind too much off.
And this is not a high stress area, so GO RIDE!
Terry
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I need to learn to weld!
It is a true skill, an ART! Terry...I wish you were nearby, I would learn from you :)
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Did the same thing to my 856 this weekend up in downieville CA. I hade the seat post up to high, as I always have since I bought the bike. Hopefully I will find some one who will do as good of job as you got. Did you think about adding a gusset to the frame?
[smiley=doh.gif]
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Hi Jinder.
Be sure to have it heat treated to T6.
Some while ago the head tube of my 757 started to crack. In time it got worse (any effect from the Crosslink twisting forces here??? I don't know...)
I had the tube cut off (not joking), fitted and welded a new Columbus, custom butted, aluminium tube and trated it to T6, according to K2's information.
I never had a problem after that, until I switched the 757 frame for a '97 Animal one, as the 757 has been always oversized for me...
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Yes, it was T6, thanks for the info!
pmcnic856, I don't have a Gusset...I got a new long post, I am riding it all the way to the end of the tube...it will never break again :)
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More information of the welding and aging of 7005 and 6061 can be found at:
www.eastonbike.com
Click on the technical/faq header, then on the technical bullitens link, then on the fabrication link.
Terry
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Be aware that proflex 957 custom butted ProGram aluminium is a 7005 alloy...
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Right you are Whisperdancer.
The 957 frames using 7005 does not need solution heat treat for hardening as 7005 is self hardening. But because it did not get the powdercoat cycle, they were probably autoclaved to induce artificial aging.
The artificial aging is to expedite the stress relief and gross hardening for manufacturing purposes. Natural aging occurs over a longer period of time. So after a weld repair, a period of days or weeks of natural aging is sufficient to obtain a grain structure sufficient for optimal design load.
The time factor for natural aging is related to the severity of the weld repair. A seatstay fracture such as Jinder's may need only a week for adequate aging, seeing as there was an unintended overload involved. A bottom bracket repair may need as much as a month of aging, as the fracture may have occurred because of metal fatigue(work hardening to the brittle stage).
Terry
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Terry your a MASTER welder!